Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 99
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

One day .. maybe in like 5 years my next car will (hopefully) be a s14 that I can whack a 180 front on.. big wide bodykit.. roll cage.. etc mmm track car.

But if you want to keep your import but have a 'legit' car why not just get a s14 or s15? A lot of business type people own those (... and don't DRIVE them).

P.S. I should also suggest that if you're a high profile employee who can actually make it a talking point and turn it to your advantage etc then it's actually a good thing to be able to have something that stands out. I see people in 200's and other German ford-laser level cars (318's etc) and it seems to be very very common..

For example I'm in a consultancy role at a major and stiff financial company... Whenever I get the chance to go to things in the cefiro I do, it presents like a piece of shit compared to the other cars there and it's not like these people think it's PHAT because it has dish, a kit and induction noise etc, nor do they care how it handles, drifts or goes... But they remember me and the car and think "ahh that bloke likes to modify cars".. That gets me into their consciousness, then it's up to my skill and competency (and bullshit skills) to sell and build credibility..

Other people use other ways to be noticed, like they fit in, work hard and hope they're noticed that way... *shrug* horses for courses mate but either way good luck :D

What does everyone else plan on buying for their next car? Another skyline or a bigger car because you now have a family or.............?

Cheers

Id suggest a nice Series 2 model Stagea.

Whether that be a RS4 (RB25det) or a RS260 Autech GTR Stagea wagon (RB26dett) thats up to you and the wallet.

They look nice, rare, and go like the clappers.

Edited by Tangles

Ferrari of whatever current model.. :P

hmm.. maybe chaser jzx100

Then again, the 'practicality' of a 4 door is not much better than a coupe when it comes down to it (having owned a few)... You still don't have enough boot space for the big long or larger items. For that you need a hatch or a wagon. The only thing it's a bit more convenient for passengers, and well stuff them :D

If "class" wasn't an issue, I'll just keep my R32.. for price, handling, performance (having turfed the rb20), knowledge of the car, power/weight, there isn't much better. It's a bit daggy on the inside these days, but then again what isn't unless you bend over on the price. And whatever else "new" will be ever-outdated in 3 years after that. Why keep playing the game until you die purchasing new cars every few years and blow it all over again? To me that's lame. During that time you could be travelling overseas, buying a business, going on exciting weekend adventures, furnish your house with the best furniture, etc, etc rather than spending maybe 40% of your weekly income maintaining some new car.

I was thinking no matter what you're going to buy you're going to get shafted with the resale and that never makes you get richer faster, so why not just stick to whatever you've blown all the money on

Why not get another Nissan - the 350Z ?

You have a choice of Coupe or Convertible (My wifes choice - her Turn next)

And it would be a corporate approved conveyance :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you take the top half of the intake off you can unbolt the flap off the shaft and leave the shaft in there blocking the hole. Then you can remove the little vacuum canister off from under the manifold and get a spare vacuum line to run to the ECU. I can take some photos of it later. Probably best to get the vacuum source to the ECU sorted first though. Mine all worked mint with the base map from the GTT an I've pretty much let the closed loop sort the fueling and took 1 degree out of the whole timing map.
    • This IS something you also have to configure in Haltech (or at least I did in the past when going from onboard-to-ECU map sensor and an external MAP sensor in haltech land).
    • I'm hoping it's something as simple as the ECU is looking for an external MAP sensor, but he is trying to use the onboard MAP sensor.
    • You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
×
×
  • Create New...