Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey there,

I'm aware of the RZ supra & GTT pole, though I have to ask as these cars are fairly similar in price and performance etc.

For those who have had experience in/with either what do you think?

My younger sister is going to buy a car and she's keen for either a

Mitsubishi FTO GP vR or a Toyota Supra SZ

I think they'd both be excellent cars -

The FTO has the mivec (same as vtec) and it sounds pretty farrking awesome, then again the SZ for a NA hauls ass like, what do you guys recon??

FTO.JPG

01998_Toyota_Supra_Turbo-med.jpg

both cars are nice, fto for better fuel consumption, but supras looks better imo

i heard fto's dont handle that well, than again thats just from friends saying, no actual proof,

price wise, fto is prob cheaper

but if im choosing the two cars for myself, ill go for the supra anyday

FTO Version R is a direct competitor to the Integra Type-R.

I've driven a FTO GPX and it's a really great NA drive - the steering is more than precise.

With the FTOs level of power, torque steer is non-existent.

Also, I'm pretty sure the FTO would be cheaper for insurance.

hey wink

is she getting the auto/tiptronic fto? the tip/auto on the fto is super slow for some strange reason

imo, supra wins in terms of looks and potential.. n/a supras are very quick for n/a cars

however, fto is good for a new driver, fuel efficiency and handles great =)

Get the FTO.

If you're going a Supra, you get the RZ, not the SZ. So if you're not interested in that model, avoid Supra's altogether. You're much better off with the top-model FTO than the bottom-model Supra.

Not to mention that MIVEC roar... :P

If we were talking RZ Supra or FTO, there would be no argument. But if you get the SZ, you're always secretly going to be wishing it was an RZ.

Just like people that get GTS-T's, spend all kinds of money doing em up, then still want a GT-R, though they've spent more than enough in mods to have already bought one.

GO THE FTO

Amazing how many experts come out of the woodwork when it comes to trying to slag FWD, and yet setup properly it can be extremely quick and safe in almost all conditions. Chances are most sledgers have never driven a decent FWD, let alone taken any car onto the racetrack. My own driveway boasts a GTR33, 2 GTS25t's, a Soarer V8 and a Lynx which I have had bags of fun in having setup the suspension nicely. It wouldn't be there if it didn't deserve to be and I'd have an FTO in a flash if the driveway wasn't full. Maybe a GP VerR in a year or so.

The FTO is a sensational car if you can find a manual and perfect around town in auto. Not quite in the league of the Honda Type Rs but I've never driven a version R FTO so maybe it has a little extra. Torque steer is not a problem unless you are trying to drive like a tool and inducing wheelspin.

At the end of the day it's the lady's choice and having helped a number of my young lady friends choose and haggle for a good price on cars she'd probably be much happier with the FTO. Smaller dimensions so easier to park at the shopping centres (important for ladies), good storage space for all the end FY sale bargains at the shops, doesn't need a big kit to look finished off like the Supra needs, not as high risk for theft, back seats for the girlfriends and will be good on fuel.

Good luck shopping.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...