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So yours takes a little longer to shift sometimes? I've noticed mine tends to be a bit laggy on the kickdown and if i put my foot to the floor, it feels as if its slipping pretty badly and doesn't really take off that well. I've acheived the best acceleration by easing the throttle in. Slamming it to the floor on takeoff just seemed to overload it and it made a lot of noise but wasn't that quick. Felt like something was slipping - not sure if its the clutch packs not engaging properly or the trans slipping a little. On another note, i have a guage on my dash saying "front torque" measured in N-m x 10. It only seems to make it to about 3 on the guage - meaning only 30 N-m. I'm sure the needle should go higher. I'm talking about when its in "synchro mode" - which I thought was 50-50 split (although I haven't seen the needle move at all when not in this mode - even on hard launches). Hoping my guage is wrong. Everything else seems to work however. And it does feel quick when I give it a bit of stick. :D

I cracked how to launch it...Make sure synchro is off!....put it into 1st then you just gotta get the boost up.....left foot hard on the brake and right foot to the floor on the loud peddle.....rear wheels should just start to spin as the boost comes up....then let off your brake and see you later.....shift at between 5500 and 5750 and it should bounce of the the limiter then come back to a solid no slipping second....ect.

only other less violent way is as above......get it moving on half throttle first then foot to the floor.

P.S. You should be able to do better than an X5......I've smoked a 2002 WRX and a VZSS(Auto)....just!

So yours takes a little longer to shift sometimes? I've noticed mine tends to be a bit laggy on the kickdown and if i put my foot to the floor, it feels as if its slipping pretty badly and doesn't really take off that well. I've acheived the best acceleration by easing the throttle in. Slamming it to the floor on takeoff just seemed to overload it and it made a lot of noise but wasn't that quick. Felt like something was slipping - not sure if its the clutch packs not engaging properly or the trans slipping a little. On another note, i have a guage on my dash saying "front torque" measured in N-m x 10. It only seems to make it to about 3 on the guage - meaning only 30 N-m. I'm sure the needle should go higher. I'm talking about when its in "synchro mode" - which I thought was 50-50 split (although I haven't seen the needle move at all when not in this mode - even on hard launches). Hoping my guage is wrong. Everything else seems to work however. And it does feel quick when I give it a bit of stick. :D

yeah that torque gauge will work in the wet. trust me :P

although i dont have one (RX and ARX lacks the 3 gauges) i can feel the front grabbing as the rear loses traction.

and yeah kick-downs are horrible. flooring it to kick back takes longer than half-throttle to kick back i rekon. because of this ive had to adjust my 'pull out' technique when i see a lane empty lol

yeah that torque gauge will work in the wet. trust me :D

although i dont have one (RX and ARX lacks the 3 gauges) i can feel the front grabbing as the rear loses traction.

and yeah kick-downs are horrible. flooring it to kick back takes longer than half-throttle to kick back i rekon. because of this ive had to adjust my 'pull out' technique when i see a lane empty lol

thanks guys, this info has helped heaps. I had a shift kit in my last stagea (s2) since I wasn't happy with how long it took to shift, particularly using tiptronic. So I wasn't sure what was "normal" for the M35.

I've yet to try it out in the wet - I know with the last stagea even with 160awkw I could stomp my foot down in the wet in a straight line and it would just grip and take off. Wouldn't try it on a corner though - thats asking for trouble no matter what car you drive :P

The guage thing still has me puzzled. It definitely feels a little different in synchro mode - particularly during tight cornering at low speeds, but the guage just didn't show as much front torque as what I expected.

Anyways, better move this discussion into a new thread if we wanna continue with it... :P

So yours takes a little longer to shift sometimes? I've noticed mine tends to be a bit laggy on the kickdown and if i put my foot to the floor, it feels as if its slipping pretty badly and doesn't really take off that well. I've acheived the best acceleration by easing the throttle in. Slamming it to the floor on takeoff just seemed to overload it and it made a lot of noise but wasn't that quick. Felt like something was slipping - not sure if its the clutch packs not engaging properly or the trans slipping a little. On another note, i have a guage on my dash saying "front torque" measured in N-m x 10. It only seems to make it to about 3 on the guage - meaning only 30 N-m. I'm sure the needle should go higher. I'm talking about when its in "synchro mode" - which I thought was 50-50 split (although I haven't seen the needle move at all when not in this mode - even on hard launches). Hoping my guage is wrong. Everything else seems to work however. And it does feel quick when I give it a bit of stick. :P

Try getting a full trans service at a "reputable" Nissan dealership & request that the "New Car Satchel" be put in.

You will know if they have used it as you will get quicker shifts.

They are not supposed to use it on cars that are out of warranty. Good luck!

Synchro is not a 50-50 split. When I use synchro (not often), it immediately shows ~30-40Nm on the gauge... whether I am cruising or standing still.

Try accelerating from standstill with your front tires on tarmac & the rears on gravel, that will instantly let you know if your gauge is working correctly.

heres a sneak peak of the new engine setup in my stagea, the turbo side of things isnt on yet i gotta sort that out next, should be up and running within a couple of weeks.

rb30installday023resizejo3.jpgw845.png

gone 30det yet? :) i want to :P

what set up did you go with?

Edited by Ryan1600

yer its a rb26/30 with single gt3076r turbo, pretty simple setup but should go alright, its only 2wd for this setup at the moment, i wanna see how i like the 30 compared to 26 first before spending money on the 4wd adaptor etc.

rb30installday025resizeml2.th.jpgthpix.gif

Edited by unique1
yer its a rb26/30 with single gt3076r turbo, pretty simple setup but should go alright, its only 2wd for this setup at the moment, i wanna see how i like the 30 compared to 26 first before spending money on the 4wd adaptor etc.

rb30installday025resizeml2.th.jpgthpix.gif

and can be made too look standard-ish :D you NEED a build thread!

lol, its not that special, nothing like it was anyway, its a stock rb30 bottom end (cost me a carton of jack daniels $90) and its been rebuilt back in 98 so its probably not the best, we pulled it down and bearings are good, the rings i dont know to be honest, ill wait and find out as we just left the same ones. I bought the 26 head on a low comp complete rb26 a while ago and got that recond, all up its a pretty cheap setup, the biggest cost is the head, turbo, wastegate (got one here lying around) and ecu (using my current autronic), im using stock gtr injectors, coils, cams, etc, the setup will only make 400hp at wheels max because of the turbo size, but should make boost very early and plenty of torque. It will never compare to the other engine with 560hp+ but its gonna be the daily driver asap so its gonna have to do.

yer its a rb26/30 with single gt3076r turbo, pretty simple setup but should go alright, its only 2wd for this setup at the moment, i wanna see how i like the 30 compared to 26 first before spending money on the 4wd adaptor etc.

rb30installday025resizeml2.th.jpgthpix.gif

hows it go for bonnet clearance brad?

the rocker cover breathers look to be pretty high up.

hows it go for bonnet clearance brad?

the rocker cover breathers look to be pretty high up.

i havent tried the bonnet yet properly, but those breathers are just sitting on the top of covers, they havent been pushed in covers yet, so they will drop 20-30mm when put in. I have to remove the strut brace because the turbo is sitting in such a shit position, but i cant be bothered changing the manifold yet i just want it going, ill eventually redo the mani so it sits alot lower and tighter to the engine.

I doubt you'll have bonnet clearance issues, Brad. I had a look under the bonnet of mine today, and the soundproofing material has cut-outs where the standard cross-over pipe/throttle body, strut brace and rear breather pipes are. Also, the strut brace itself looks like it is actually higher than the section along the firewall where it seals against the back of the bonnet (just in front of the windscreen).

post-51686-1225231978_thumb.jpg

Heres a pic of mine from the Adelaide Stag cruise a couple of weeks ago. Its amazing how every stagea is different somehow. I really need to fill those gaurds with something.

post-51686-1225232671_thumb.jpg

Edited by cahlie

Right, I actually got a decent camera this time, so I took some better pics

P1080894.jpg

P1080907.jpg

Inside:

P1080910.jpg

and a couple from a meet on Saturday:

P1090073.jpg

P1090074.jpg

P1090080.jpg

Edited by mr_infamy
  • 2 weeks later...

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