Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'll be entering into the world of auto > manual conversion shortly. Was eyeing off an S2 stagea at the wreckers that had been converted. I have about 2 weeks to do it in, but shouldnt take that long as all the bits I need are there already.

I'll post progress & pics once I've started.

Nooch

I'll be entering into the world of auto > manual conversion shortly. Was eyeing off an S2 stagea at the wreckers that had been converted. I have about 2 weeks to do it in, but shouldnt take that long as all the bits I need are there already.

I'll post progress & pics once I've started.

Nooch

With some help its a weekend job. Only special gear is something to cut the hole for the gear lever and a welder for the handbrake bracket.

With some help its a weekend job. Only special gear is something to cut the hole for the gear lever and a welder for the handbrake bracket.

Thanks Bob,

yeah I should be ok. Only thing that will slow me down is I'm a bit limited by my mobility as I'm not fully recovered from an earlier accident.

I did print out all the info on the conversion + a few additionals that people had thrown in.

Slowly all my pieces are coming together, I cannot seem to spend money on one consistent goal, I am all over the place, I've got most of the parts I need for power, Then I got a 32 GTR box (bargain, couldn't resist), Now i've started buying more parts for my stereo, just got a bunch of gauges, I guess it doesn't really matter what order I buy stuff in because everything will be done in one go, no point doing one bit, then another in a few months haha.

I am interested to see what people have done with their auto consoles, I am Most likely going to just modify mine and make it work, are there much pics going around of modified auto consoles that anyone wants to share? Not fond of spending the kind of money needed for a proper manual console....

Hello fellow stag owners,

i bought a factory RWD stagea RS series 2 and its auto :angry: anyway ive got a r33 gtst gearbox sitting at my mates house and Im just wondering if it would be a direct bolt up job or do i need another gearbox? im not sure if its a series 1 or 2 gearbox.

ok thanks!

i havnt seen any forums for the factory RWD manual conversion so i thought i would ask. im running a haltech sp2000 ecu and ive got a r33 tailshaft and spigot so it should be all good! just have to gather all the other bits

Well I decided to let the guys at Top Secret handle this job for me and deal with the heat too. Theyll take care of the install of the box, pedles& handbrake. I could have done it all but its nice to know you have some sort of warranty on the install. Once this is sorted its off to get the zorst sorted.

Happy days

  • 2 weeks later...

Can anyone clear up a bit of confusion over the flywheel for me. Got a 96 Stagea RS4 and looking at putting the r33 gtr box in. The guide says to use a 9 bolt style flywheel, but when helping a friend rebuilding a rb25det for his skyline yesterday I noticed that theres only 6 bolt holes for the flywheel. Looking at getting a lightened wheel so don't want to shell out a load for one that won't fit.

All RB flywheels have 6 bolts holding them to the crank - the difference is in the number of bolts holding the clutch cover (pressure plate) on. To quote Kudos Motorsport:

All R31/32/33 RB20/25/26 cranks use a 6 bolt flywheel to crank configuration, and the following pressure plate to flywheel:

•RB20E, RB20ET & RB20DE (225mm Clutch Disc) - 6 Bolt

•RB25DE & RB25DET (240mm Clutch Disc) - 9 Bolt

•R32 RB26DETT (240mm Clutch Disc) - 9 Bolt

•R33 RB26DETT (250mm Clutch Disc) - 9 Bolt

For starters awesome thread!!!

Doing manual swap soon gathering parts..

-What clutch should be used??

Im running it in rwd only... R32gtr box would a heavy duty organic listed for a r32 gtr work well? Thanks

-also r34 manual console work or not??

Thanks rob

  • 2 weeks later...

1st up awesome thread!!!

started mine manual s1 swap today.. my contributions to the the thread:

-r33 clutch pedal is good fit BUT hole to bolt up to dash does not line up. r33 has 1 hole stagea has 2 holes... i cut and weld the bracket off the handbrake pedal.. otherwise two bolts taking pressures off the firewall..(very thin) not good idea

-r33 hand brake and cable PERFECT (besides mounting holes)

swap is on pause ordered a r32 push clutch, box turned out to be r32-3 pull but its goin well printed conversion guide out and reading it like a bible!!! thank you so much :)

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hang on. Let me get this straight. The desire is to have coilovers, BC in particular, to be MORE comfortable on Sydney roads than stock suspension? Well, that's obviously not right. BCs have crude damping design at the very best, and typically hard spring rates. BC stands for Billy Cart. And then, the desire is to put in some shitty old worn out stockers, to get it blue slipped and then put the BCs back in? And then.....what? Not worry about getting pulled up by the Plod? Because you seem to have raised a worry about paying for engineering (which actually does solve all your legality problems) and still getting pulled up.... but the only problem there is that if/when that happens you have to show your paperwork at the inspection station. Whereas, if you just swap in borrowed shitty old stockers to get it slipped now, and then you get defected in the future, you have to go find more shitty old stockers then too. You course of action looks like this set of options: Buy brand new stock type dampers, and springs. probably cost a bit more than $1k all up, but will last for the remaining life of the car. Put them in, pass inspection, drive on them forever more. Hell, they could even be really nice Bilsteins and Kings or other lower&stiffer springs if you wanted. Get the car engineered as is. ~$1k. Buy new Shockworks coilvers (or MCA) and also pay for engineering. You're spending a lot more here. But these will be the best things that you could drive around on.
    • Might be worthwhile hitting up Facebook's groups, I know most of them contain terrible people and scammers - however you might be able to find someone that's in Sydney with factory suspension you could purchase and/or hire. Just do not send any form of money anywhere, in person cash only.
    • Thanks @Duncan Ride height is fine. I think it's almost stock tbh. Happy to share a pic. I don't actually have a regular mechanic as haven't lived in Sydney too long. Could you or anyone recommend any shops in Sydney?
    • You just need a different blue slip shop (preferably one you regularly use as a mechanic), and make sure the coil overs are as close as possible to standard height
    • yeah the sugar refining companies were pushing for the same in Oz originally, all fuels were going to have 10% ethanol to make them "cheaper" (noting, that the loss in l/100 might be greater than the decrease in price). I guess they won that fight in Canadia
×
×
  • Create New...