Jump to content
SAU Community

Stagea Manual Conversion Guide


tRUkbOY

Recommended Posts

Got all the parts ready to order, just been advised by a mechanic friend to check that the starter motor and shafts don't need changing. Not seen them mentioned here so I assume not?

Nope just use what you have,

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 9 months later...

bringing back an old thread hoping for some help

Has anyone done a manual conversion on a S2? alot of the info in this thread is for series 1 stagea and wiring for the transmission is different from S1 to S2 (tiptronic)

I am assuming the same mod needs to be done for the park inhibiter switch - bridging terminals of the two pin connector, but has anyone sorted out reverse switch wiring? transmission side that is, it appears if you are using the auto harness for the manual - it will need to be cut.

I have a series 2 gearbox which has 2 switches on the side, one for reverse and the other I am not sure so if someone knows which is which that would be great too.

I did do a continuity (resistance) check of the two switches hoping to find out which one had continuity when in reverse gear, but no resistance - could be a faulty switch?

Also, under the centre console there is a little black box - deceleration sensor, it needs to be removed/disconnected to allow the console to fit correctly as it is directly beneath the coin box compartment, has anyone removed this completely or just repositioned it? Has anyone with a factory manual have this little black box? refer to picture

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Jarrad.

post-34938-0-21223500-1398250683_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

sorry I can't help with the auto wiring; but I am pretty sure the black box replaces the earlier gold box as the 4wd sensor (pic is bad, but I think that's it). If so you need to keep it, but reposition it anywhere else available under the console that is flat/level....min is right towards the back of the console

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 months later...

hi,

im thinking of converting my s2 to manual

few questions though.

will an r32 gtr front prop shaft work?or do i need an r33 one?

is there anything else that i need other than whats listed

33 gtst clutch pedal
r33 gtst clutch master cylinder
r33 gtst handbrake
r32 gtr gearbox a push type
r32 gtr clutch and flywheel
r32 gtr clutch slave cylinder
rb25 manual flywheel bolts
rb25 manual spigot bush for the crank
conceptua braided clutch line
manual gearbox bolts

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hi,

im thinking of converting my s2 to manual

few questions though.

will an r32 gtr front prop shaft work?or do i need an r33 one?

is there anything else that i need other than whats listed

33 gtst clutch pedal

r33 gtst clutch master cylinder

r33 gtst handbrake

r32 gtr gearbox a push type

r32 gtr clutch and flywheel

r32 gtr clutch slave cylinder

rb25 manual flywheel bolts

rb25 manual spigot bush for the crank

conceptua braided clutch line

manual gearbox bolts

You can just use the front prop shaft from your auto they are all the same. You may have to do something about your speedo drive.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can just use the front prop shaft from your auto they are all the same. You may have to do something about your speedo drive.

anyone know how to wire the gearbox up in the s2?

what have people done with the speedo drive in the past?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you don't get a reply just google "electronic speedometer drive for R32 gearbox" or something like that .

As for wiring apart from the speed signal which is obvious there is just the reverse light which you should be able to work out with a multimeter and don't forget the handbrake warning light.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Jason, I'm not sure exactly what you have found or need, but the later model (33,34) and even Navara electric speedo senders physically fit the 32 gearbox and can be used in the conversion

ok thanks,im not 100% sure myself.

i was under the impression it wasnt a straight swap over?

if the 33,34 senders fit the gearbox ill just pick one of them up.

i just started collecting parts for the conversion.i want to have all the right bits before i start.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

looking for part numbers for the following
rb25det flywheel bolts is it (12315-42L11)
rb25det manual spigot bush
rb25det manual gearbox bolts is it (01121-05121 x 3 long top bell housing
31377-15U00 x 3 bottom bell housing
31377-15U01 x 1 bottom bell housing, far left facing the front of the trans, outer bolt for the gusset support.
08911-2101A x 1 hex nut for the far left bolt.)
r33 gtst handbrake cables
thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

hope someone can help me out here, just did my manual conversion over the last few days, all in ready to turn the key. now i havent yet wired up the reverse lights so hoping that isnt my problem, but i hit the key for the first time tonight and all that happened was the starter motor clicked, car didnt turn over or start.

i have looped the inhibitor switch plug.

also wondering what i do with all the left over wiring that was off the auto box.

the only thing i have running to the box is the speedo plug thats connected.

cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

battery was fine and charged. some previous owner made the main starter wire black just like the earth wires, naturally i earthed it to body. banged it on positive and all systems go.

cheers everyone on here for there input. helped out a lot with the conversion.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Any chance you can get a Nistune board installed instead and set the speed limit to whatever your tires can handle?
    • Hi all, I need to get this HKS SLD attached to my stock ECU because I've now got the German autobahn and faster European circuits to contend with.  The car is a manual 2dr ER34 with an AT ECU and I've realised the AT ECU has two pins for speed sensor signals: Pin 29: Vehicle speed sensor signal (Vehicle speed sensor 2) Pin *58: Output shaft rotation sensor signal (Vehicle speed sensor 1) - *RB25DET A/T model only Before I go butchering this harness, is anyone sure of which pin is the correct one for signal adjustment? The attached document from HKS indicates pin 29 but I found this situation mentioned in the following thread on a different forum (R34 GTT Auto Trans Speed Cut Problem | Zerotohundred) mentioning pin 58 needing to be altered by member zephuros, albeit it seems to be for an RSM-GP and the info appears to be old.  R34_All_Workshop_Manual-pages-2.pdf R34_All_Workshop_Manual-pages-3.pdf R34_All_Workshop_Manual-pages-1.pdf HKS SLD Vehicle Pin out P59-P70 ER34-pages.pdf
    • Slimline sub on the rear parcel shelf is doable. Pioneer TS-WX140DA is only 70mm high.   
    • People like Johnny Dose Bro might be laughing at my post because I accidentally added 100mm to my numbers. 350-355 is indeed the lower limit. 450 is off-road Skyline spec.
    • What is the "compromise" that you think will happen? Are you thinking that something will get damaged? The only things you have to be concerned about with spherical jointed suspension arms are; Arguments with the constabulary wrt their legality (they are likely to be illegal for road use without an engineering certificatation, and that may not be possible to obtain). A lot more NVH transmitted through to the passengers (which is hardly a concern for those with a preference for good handling, anyway). Greatly increased inspection and maintenance requirements (see above points, both).   It is extremely necessary to ask what car you are talking about. Your discussion on strut tops, for example, would be completely wrong for an R chassis, but be correct for an S chassis. R32s have specific problems that R33/4 do not have. Etc. I have hardened rubber bushes on upper rear control arms and traction rods. Adjustable length so as to be able to set both camber and bump steer. You cannot contemplate doing just the control arms and not the traction arms. And whatever bushing you have in one you should have in the other so that they have similar characteristics. Otherwise you can get increased oddness of behaviour as one bushing flexes and the other doesn't, changing the alignment between them. I have stock lower rear arms with urethane bushes. I may make changes here, these are are driven by the R32's geometry problems, so I won't discuss them here unless it proves necessary. I have spherical joints in the front caster rods. I have experienced absolutely no negatives and only positives from doing so. They are massively better than any other option. I have sphericals in the FUCAs, but this is driven largely by the (again) R32 specific problems with the motion of those arms. I just have to deal with the increased maintenance required. Given how much better the front end behaves with the sphericals in there.....I'd probably be tempted to go away from my preference (which is not to have sphericals on a road car, for 2 of the 3 reasons in the bulleted list above), just to gain those improvements. And so my preference for not using sphericals (in general) on a road car should be obvious. I use them judiciously, though, as required to solve particular problems.
×
×
  • Create New...