Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Sorry for the thread bump, but i need some info, ive read through this post, but couldnt find what i was after.

Im wanting to convert my S2 C34 RWD, will i be able to use a 33 tailshaft? or will i have to do a cut n shut ?

Sorry for the thread bump, but i need some info, ive read through this post, but couldnt find what i was after.

Im wanting to convert my S2 C34 RWD, will i be able to use a 33 tailshaft? or will i have to do a cut n shut ?

What gearbox are you using? You may be able to use the shaft you have. (Don't know for sure as mine was AWD to GTR AWD).

  • 2 months later...
  • 1 month later...

I have a issue with my s1 rs4v that's been converted to manual. Awd has never seemed to function right. What's the process of fault finding something like this? Pump primes on start and had been bled. Where would the attesa ecu be to check for fault codes?

I have a question mates,i have a Auto AWD R34 with Rb25 DET neo and want to go with a manual box.My question is what do i have to do to get my attesa working like normal?

Make sure you get an awd box!

Top up fluids and bleed - nothing special to do.

  • Like 1

I have a issue with my s1 rs4v that's been converted to manual. Awd has never seemed to function right. What's the process of fault finding something like this? Pump primes on start and had been bled. Where would the attesa ecu be to check for fault codes?

Left hand side of boot forward of wheel arch.

  • Like 1

Is there anything else that would stop the attesa working without showing a light in the dash?

Just to note I'm using a r34 gtt power fc if that makes any difference

Edited by fmlycar

Is there anything else that would stop the attesa working without showing a light in the dash?

Just to note I'm using a r34 gtt power fc if that makes any difference

Has it ever worked since you had it? New ECU requires a line from the TPS to somewhere - there's info in here somewhere.

  • 2 weeks later...

Does anyone have a pic of where the atessa ecu is in a s1 c34? And how much interior trim do I have to remove to get to it?

I have one of those electronic torque split controllers fitted (been in the car since I e owned it) and if I turn it up above say 2, the 4wd and abs lights come on. Is that a normal function due to the way they are wired in? I know it does it switching from 4wd to 2wd.

Really want 4wd for launches. Probably break drive shafts but I have spares.

As above he attessa ecu is behind the trim between the LH wheel arch and the back seat. I would not be confident that the torque split controller can safely put you into 2wd. If you read the instructions for putting the R33 (and C34 Stagea) into 2wd I would doubt that a torque controller could do that. R32 is another story.

Got me stuffed where the attessa ecu is. Pull my trim apart today and couldn't find it it front or behind the strut tower. Do I need to remove the back seat or something? Can I just plug in consult and see if anything shows up? Even though I'm running a power fc?

Pump primes on start up and every now and then sitting at idle I hear it come on for a moment and then off again

Edited by fmlycar
  • 1 month later...

Apologies for the thread bump but I'm at a loss, does the clutch pedal have to be modified to fit? I have a r34 pedal but it's fouling on the bracket for the footbrake. It also doesn't line up with the hole at the top where the footbrake. Was just wondering if anyone had any photos of how they mounted theirs

Apologies for the thread bump but I'm at a loss, does the clutch pedal have to be modified to fit? I have a r34 pedal but it's fouling on the bracket for the footbrake. It also doesn't line up with the hole at the top where the footbrake. Was just wondering if anyone had any photos of how they mounted theirs

Go back to the beginning of the thread and Trukboy explains it pretty well.

I wasn't planning on using the footbrake I've already got my handbrake installed but I'm needing a bit of guidance with the clutch pedal. Has no one got any photos? I see that Trukboy got a recessed master cylinder, is it possible to do it with a standard master cylinder? I bought a job lot of bits off someone with a gts4

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
×
×
  • Create New...