Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Richard,

here are your details and options,

cold area version (heated side mirrors & wipers, hi-vis rear red safety light)

14. leather combi seat powered

15. 16inch aluminium wheel

16. auto twin sunroof

17. super sound system

18. SFHC super fine hard coat, rear viscous LSD

Simon

post-780-1205313622_thumb.jpg

You are correct with your attempt at WGNC34-019073

The vehicle is a 97 model stagea

Are the 6U900 characters preceeding required?

Nope no need for the Australian characters :domokun:

Do you have the model code?

After it refuses to run the VIN it asks me to input a model code...not sure if it will help or not.

Can someone else re-run the VIN?

-

Gareth

Nope no need for the Australian characters :domokun:

Do you have the model code?

After it refuses to run the VIN it asks me to input a model code...not sure if it will help or not.

Can someone else re-run the VIN?

-

Gareth

There you go.

Cheers

Andy

post-41854-1205320745_thumb.jpg

these are your options and list of R33 model codes.

17. audioless (no factory audio)

18. passenger seat airbag

for those unaware, to check, put in your vin, bring up your model code, and the numbers below correspond the the digit number in the code, for the 33's anyway.

1.

B. 4 door sedan

G. 2 door coupe and 4 door autech

2.

GC. rb20e

GK. rb25det and de

GJ. rb26dett

4.

A. no super hicas 2wd

B. super hicas 2wd

N. no super hicas 4wd

P. super hicas 4wd

5.

R. RHD

6.

E. GTS + GTS25 TYPE S

G. (GTS+GTS-4)/X+(GTS+GTS25)/S+GTS-4

Q. GTR+GTR autech and 40th anniversary

T. GTS25T M1 AND M2

V. GTS25T TYPE M LSD

W. GTR VSPEC AND GTR N1

7.

A. 4 SPEED AUTO

F. 5 SPEED MANUAL

N. 5 SPEED AUTO

11.

E. EGI model

V. intercooler turbo

Z. intercooler twin turbo

12.

D. jap normal domestic model

Z. jap cold area domestic model

13.

A. standard

post-780-1205532535_thumb.jpg

post-780-1205532629_thumb.jpg

post-780-1205533957_thumb.jpg

could someone check this one for me?

ECR33110460

Thanks in advance. :D

options

15 rear wiper

16 rear struttower bar and tran grid trim and gts25t type m2 (2 door)

17 skyline sound system

18 passenger airbag

post-780-1205579762_thumb.jpg

Hey,

these are your options and list of R33 model codes.

Excellent work, should be in the thread about how to use FAST but I can't remember where it is :D

Thanks for that, it could come in handy :D

Can someone please look up:

BNR34002430

Cheers

14.super fine coat

15.rear wiper+UV cut glass+privacy glass

16.glove box light+remote control entry+tran grid trim+multi display meter+advanced aero system

18.rear fog lamp

post-780-1205663522_thumb.jpg

could someone check what factory options my car came with :)

HCR32 297565

Thanks

sorry, 32's and before don't seem to list the options as the later models do, 33's and after, unless someone knows how to find ?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...