Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Find a manifold made from stainless steel, with individual runners and a wastegate flange angled into the exhaust flow. Make sure the runners are seperate where they bolt into the block to allow them to expand. Proper design > brand.

Why stainless, steampipe ones dont crack wheras stainless ones are far more prone

Why stainless, steampipe ones dont crack wheras stainless ones are far more prone

It has far les to do with it being stainless. Its actually a function of not the metal but the fabrication technique. There isnt a reason why you cant have the best of both worlds

stainless goes brittle after its been exposed to too much heat. Its the same when welding it. It seems to be hard to find a properly constructed manifold these days. Plus the stainless manifolds go dull and grey from the heat and only look good (bling factor) for the first month or two. It wouldnt matter if it was totally wrapped though. Without the wrapping the mild steel radiates less heat and helps keep underbonnet temps down where the ss radiates it massively if not wrapped, so i guess a wrapped ms would be ultimate. That was the biggest difference i noticed when changing from ss to ms manifolds, the radiating heat. Not only that but with the 6boost manifold we saw a straight out 300-400rpm earlier boost and power incline. That was the biggest thing our tuners complimented on when the car went back to them.

It has far les to do with it being stainless. Its actually a function of not the metal but the fabrication technique. There isnt a reason why you cant have the best of both worlds

Hows that when the coefficient of thermal expansion for stainless steel is like 10 times that of mild steell(depending on the grade.

Thermal expansion? Ok, but its not an issue. The amount of bends in a manifold allow it to grow. Its only an issue if you have a long length of striagh tube which is fixed at both ends and it cant grow.

So good point, but my 2c is thermal expansion is not an issue. I worked for about 5 years in the specialised welding insudtry, and still work in a related industry. So whislt i cant weld for sh1t, i know a good weld and have wokred with great welders. I have only ever seen a few manifolds that from a welding perspective cut the mustard.

General practice is pretty poor. Does the job, but not a good weld, and im sure would fail many of the xray and tensile tests etc required for it to become a qualified weld procedure as per AS requirements.

Steam pipe will work, but its a ball ache to get smooth internal bore. The right grade of stainless steel welded properly and isntalled with a bit of care will give you a light and great performing manifold....my choice should i need one.

Main advantage of cast manifold is you get to play with bore and tweak gas velocity. Tube doesnt give you that flexibility. But short radius and long radius elbows dont give you the same fabrication flexibility as tube.

Although all this talk of welding...thats another point. A good manifold will use mandrel bent sections with only around the collectors requiring welding...ala every racign manifold you see and manifolds liek Gibson and Nissan gave the R31 GTSR, or you see on a lot of drag boats etc

Are you guys serious? 304 grade stainless as an example is pretty easy to weld, crack resistant, low in thermal conductivity and long-term corrosion resistant. The only potential worry is the high coefficient of thermal expansion but that can be accounted for. In theory, and with a proper design, stainless should be one of the top candidates. If using mild steel you'd want to coat it with chrome or some sort of ceramic to help with corrosion resistance.

Edited by govich
no response to my email to 6boost. i really dont want to make an international call. are they typically responsive to emails?

More responsive to phone or SMS IME.

SMS should not cost you the world; but then again neither should an international call... particularly not

compared to the price of the manifold.

Regards,

Saliya

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I think the concept is highlighting the various scenarios where thicker oil helps, and thicker oil potentially doesn't help and only generates heat and costs power, in turn for safety which isn't actually any safer (unless you're going real hot). If anything this does highlight why throwing Castrol 10w-60 for your track days is always a solid, safe bet. 
    • Jason should have shown a real viscosity vs temp chart. All the grades have very little viscosity difference at full operating temperature.
    • Oops... I meant to include the connector  view... BR/W - power from fuse L/W - motor negative to fan control amp (and off to HVAC pin19) OR/B - PWM signal (from HVAC pin20) B --  ground  
    • Yep, if you are applying filler it sounds like there is something wrong with the body lol. Safe to assume there is going to be a lot of sanding going on if your still applying fillers.  Picture a perfect bare metal panel, smooth as glass. You lay down your primer, it's perfect. (why are you going to sand it?) You lay down the colour and clear, it's perfect. No sanding at all took place and you've got a perfectly finished panel.  You won't be chasing your tail, sounds like you were prepping to start laying filler. If your happy with the body after the sanding, there is some bare metal exposed and some areas with primer, no issues at all, start laying the filler. You are safe to lay filler on bare metal or primer (of course check your technical data sheet as usual for what your filler is happy to adhere to).  This isn't a 100% correct statement. There is primer that is happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. There are fillers that are happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. Just make sure you're using the right materials for the job.  Typically if you are using filler, you would go primer, colour and clear. I've never seen any instances before where someone has laid colour over body filler (maybe this happens, but I haven't seen it before). So your plan sounds pretty normal to me. 
    • I don't think there's any way someone is push starting this car.. I honestly can barely move it, and moving it and steering it is just flat out not possible. I'm sure it is, but needs a bigger man than me. I have a refurbished starter now. The starter man was quite clear and consise showing me how nothing inside a starter really should contribute to slow cranking, and turned out that for the most part... my starter was entirely fine. Still, some of the wear items were replaced and luckily it didn't show any signs of getting too hot, being unfit for use, etc. Which is 'good'. I also noticed the starter definitely sounded different, which is a bit odd considering nothing should have really changed there.... Removed and refit, and we'll pretend one of the manifold bolts didn't fully tighten up and is only "pretty" tight. GM only wants 18ft/lb anyway. I also found a way to properly get my analog wideband reading very slightly leaner than the serial wideband. There's Greg related reasons for this. The serial output is the absolute source of truth, but it is a total asshole to actually stay connected and needs a laptop. The analog input does not, and works with standalone datalogging. Previously the analog input read slightly richer, but if I am aiming at 12.7 I do not want one of the widebands to be saying 12.7 when the source of truth is 13.0. Now the source of truth will be 12.65 and the Analog Wideband will read 12.7. So when I tune to 12.7 it'll be ever so slightly safer. While messing with all of this and idling extensively I can confirm my car seems to restart better while hot now. I did add an old Skyline battery cable between the head and the body though, though now I really realise I should have chosen the frame. Maybe that's a future job. The internet would have you believe that this is caused by bad grounds. In finding out where my grounds actually were I found out the engine bay battery post actually goes to the engine, as well as a seperate one (from the post) to the body of the car. So now there's a third one making the Grounding Triangle which is now a thing. I also from extensive idling have this graph. Temperature (°C) Voltage (V) 85 1.59 80 1.74 75 1.94 70 2.1 65 2.33 60 2.56 55 2.78 50 2.98 45 3.23 40 3.51 35 3.75 30 4.00   Plotted it looks like this. Which is actually... pretty linear? I have not actually put the formula into HPTuners. I will have to re-engage brain and/or re-engage the people who wanted more data to magically do it for me. Tune should be good for the 30th!
×
×
  • Create New...