Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 49
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

91 suzuki katana (think of a 1000cc sh1tty 2WD in a tincan jimny body) - a wannabe "compact 4WD" with only rear wheel drives that doesn't even go. Body rattled like hell too. Your nana on a bike would overtake this.

95 toyota kijang (my country's favourite 1300cc people mover) - doesn't go either and rattly.

93 Lancer CE Coupe bought accident damage from a friend leaving the country. Got dents & bents in every single panel no kidding.

86 Cressida with a dying starter motor, transition car b4 finding the next Galant.

94 Galant SE Hatch, not bad, much better performer than Lancer but still not fast enough. Engine sh1ts itself after only 100,000km

Which seems to me I now realise never moved up from the cars made in 91-94 era... my current R33 is a 93 model....

'81 GJ Mitubishi Scorpian

'81 VC Commodore

'88 TJ (i think) Hilux Surf

'90 N13 Pulsar Hatch

'88 N13 Pulsar sedan (FAT18L)

'91 N13 Pulsar Sedan (CA18DET powered - NOF41R)

'96 R33 Gtst (NOZILR)

'93 S13 180sx (the born of JCKASS)

'95 R33 GTR (JCKASS)

i was told once that when i got y first turbo i would never go back... and thats what happened, cept now i have 2!

'73 VW 1.5l Beetle - Body rusted so had to get rid of it. It was a pretty cool car - heaps of character. 105km/h was the highest speed I could coax it to.

'83 KA 1.5l Laser - Had a manual choke. On a cold day if you timed accelerating and the choke properly, it felt like a turbo :). The exhaust fell off once and all the sudden it felt like it was given wings. My bro wrote that one off.

'86 N12 1.6l Pulsar - Involved in heaps of accidents. I thought it was ballsy compared to my sisters 1.5 version. Got some good 4 wheel sliding around the race course at Bathurst :)

Then I test drove an r33 skyline. As soon as the turbo kicked in, I knew I had to have one. :)

I've also driven V6 Magna (my old folks), several commies (including a supercharged calais), a datto (my bro's - had the shittiest brakes on the planet), an astra (even more ball-less than the VW), a shitty 80's magna, a forester, a celica, and a WRX (gimme a skyline any day of the week over a WRX :)).

1980 VC Commodore. Bought it with a very rooted 173 in it, ended up with a blue 202, lumpy as Crow Cam, 450 mechsec 4-barrel holley, extractors etc. It got 20l/100km, was lumpy as anything (couldn't get it to idle below about 1000rpm, cam started to come in around 3000, redline at 5500) and the cops loved it, and if I caned the crap out of it, it would *just* keep up with a stock VLT :)

Next car was the '33 in 2000, then I bought the bike in May last year. Turbos are good, but just the thought of bolting one onto the bike scares me :P

Funnily enough, i still drive most of the first non performance car I owned, which was an R31. Now pretty much everything from that car besides the chassis is in another much more modified R31 which I drive now, including the boot and windows.

First vehicle was a 20,000rpm roadbike.

my 1st was a $150 fully sick 1.3l carby holden barina (swift) 90 model complete with hail damage!

the hectik thing was that i wacked on a veilside style kit on it patched the lil bitch up

decked it out with a douf douf system ,some 16's cut the springs and put a 2.5'' exhaust on it n the final touch was a recaro seat phone holder,

on the 1/4 it would have done 30secs et but it would always provide 6 secs of madness.

sold the car for $2000 to a dealer

would have broken even after the years,

they were the good times

*memories song in backround*

beat that!!!!

Learnt to drive in a VT Holden Clubsport, First car 300ZX-Turbo second car my now R33 GTST um so never had the experience - ive worked in Mitsubishi & Toyota Dealerships so just driven there non performance cars but thats it.

Sorry :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lets say I wanted to buy this, specifically for this purpose. How do I actually perform the function. Can I still buy a Consult-1? Am I about to be burned by the fact my car is a 2000 model Series 2 R34 and thus will be some stupid other system? Do I just need this -> https://obd2australia.com.au/product/nissan-consult-14-pin-to-usb-ddl-diagnostic-interface-with-ftdi-ft232r-chip/ And with what software?
    • That's probably OK. That's a face to face compression joint between two surfaces with the clamping load provided by those bolts. So.... it's unlikely that the bolts will end up feeling that load in shear, unless the clamping surfaces are not large enough, bolts not got enough tension on them, etc etc to prevent the two faces from moving wrt each other. Which... I would hope the designers have considered, seeing as it's probably one of the most important things the upright has to do apart from resist collapsing in its own right. But yes, it would definitely be worth asking them what their safety factor on that part of the design was. I tend to think that the casting, being a casting, is not necessarily the strongest bit of material in the world. It's about an inch square, and when you think about the loads that are being put into it, you have to wonder what safety factor the Nissan boys (and every other OEM engineer who has designed all the millions of other uprights that look essentially the same) used to account for defective casting, aging, severe impacts on the wheel, etc etc. 
    • Those bolts would be orders of magnitude stronger that cast aluminium though.  And its mainly clamping force, not shear they are dealing with?
    • Except all that twisting force that is breaking a cast piece, appears to be going through 4 bolts in the picture Johnny posted of the BryPar one...
    • The smart approach is to use the gearbox loom from the manual car. Makes it a lot easier - just plugs into the switches on the box and plugs into the main loom up near the fusebox. Then you only need to deal with bypassing the inhibit switch. The other approach requires you to use the wiring diagram to identify those wires by colour and location, perhaps even indulging in a little multimeter action to trace them end to end to make sure, and then.... you will have the answers you need. The R34 wiring diagram is available on-line (no, I do not have a link to it myself - I would have to do a search if I wasn't able to go to the copy I have at home).
×
×
  • Create New...