Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was wondering when i would start seeing the mods start changing into rebuilds. One only has to look at the muscle car scene to see where we're headed.

Excellent work and great commitment Deren. Ant idea how much $$$ you saved by stripping and reassembling it your self?

Thanks mate, your right about the rebuilds. I would have saved thousands doing all the labour myself. Considering your average workshop charges $80 an hour. Im a mechanic so its pretty handy when doing something like this.

Cheers guys, i have had the blower fan, evaporator, and heater core all out for cleaning and inspection over the last week or so. All looks good so i fitted a new TX valve and flushed everything out bit by bit. All going back together at the moment. Also painted up the condensor to freshen it up a bit. Gonna put in a new receiver dryer of course :P

post-14108-1163499595.jpg

Well yeah thats the problem ive come accross. i want to be able to use this car but its hard to bring yourself to even drive the thing after so much time and money have been poured into it. I do plan at least to go to the drags with my new engine in etc, but was planning to go for a few laps during (hopefully) quiet time on a circuit.. Just have to be clear of other cars especially if they are behind me!

Don't forgot to do a few thousand k's of running it in.....I'm sure you already knew that ;)

ooooo, all shiny, my alt/fan belt always squeaks coz its a PITA trying to get the right tension settings on it :P and the last thing I want is no squeak but its too tight.

Well yeah thats the problem ive come accross. i want to be able to use this car but its hard to bring yourself to even drive the thing after so much time and money have been poured into it. I do plan at least to go to the drags with my new engine in etc, but was planning to go for a few laps during (hopefully) quiet time on a circuit.. Just have to be clear of other cars especially if they are behind me!

Just buy two of them, you would be mad to put this much time and money into this and then take it to the track....what if you roll it into the kitty litter or something :(

Race only imports are dirt cheap, gtr under $10k landed

Well yeah thats the problem ive come accross. i want to be able to use this car but its hard to bring yourself to even drive the thing after so much time and money have been poured into it. I do plan at least to go to the drags with my new engine in etc, but was planning to go for a few laps during (hopefully) quiet time on a circuit.. Just have to be clear of other cars especially if they are behind me!

What did the alternator cost to get redone? and where did u get it done?

Yeah i hear ya guys..Would be bad news if anything happenend once it was finished :rofl: Anyway i'll see what i decide when it comes to that time..

Alternator was $165 All i got them to do was clean it up and a new set of bearings. Brushes were only 50% used... Think i'll do the starter myself..Cant be too hard? Im not sure what to do with the P/S pump. Thinking to just give it a coat of paint to bring it up more uniform...Also theres the matter of the A/C compressor...thinking to flush it with some solvent and work it thru but theres always the option of getting it serviced and checked over...Then that costs more money...What do u guys think?

PS: Alt was done at wynnum car electrics on Tingal Rd. Wynnum

Edited by Godzilla32

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm going to slap an old nismo logo sticker on my spare one and sell it to the land of the free for a thousand bucks
    • lol, probably should have read further!
    • Well - they have arrived.  And they are easy on the eye to put it mildly... These only have three bolts - but for a start there is a key that fits with vacuum like precision..  And as you can see by my ruler, the interface is large..   I listened to a podcast on HP Academy about Dan (KiwiCNC) and I'm more than comfortable he knows what he is doing. R35 Bearing assembly should arrive later today so can mock that up for a look. Can't wait to get these on and get some brake pressure logging too. IMG_3860.MP4
    • I would be very confident that they are the same parts (the 2 different SKUs). It seems very clear that you can drop the cam in the 2-way opening, or in the other opening. If you arrange it in the other opening in the same way that you see any other 1-way diff, ie, with the flat of the cam up against the 1° side of the opening, then it would work as a 1-way. It can only spread the ramps when driving forwards - cannot spread the ramps on overrun. It would then appear obvious that if you put the cam into the opening "backwards", that you would get the angled flats of the cam working onto the "points" of the 1° side of the opening, which would give you ramp spread in both loading directions. I do wonder if the forward direction of the 1.5-way config is equivalent to the forward direction of the 2-way, seeing as the cams are flipped and the angled surfaces on those would need to be the same on each side - AND - clearly when installed in either the 2-way or 1-1ay configuration they are not intended to work exactly the same (the ramp angles on the 2-way are 10° different between forward and backward, and the ramp doesn't exist in the 1-way config). 'twere me, I think I would rather actually have a set of rings that offered the 2-way with two different sets of ramp angles, say the 55/45 of the existing design and maybe a 45/37.5 combo for a less aggressive effect), AND another set of rings with a dedicated 1.5-way opening and a dedicated 1-way opening. The 1.5-way opening would actually have the steeper angle on the overdrive side that causes it to be less pushy than the forward drive angle, like you see in many other diffs. But really - if this Nismo thing is thought out properly and all those surfaces work on each other the way that they need to, who am I to argue?
    • I would be very confident that they are the same parts (the 2 different SKUs). It seems very clear that you can drop the cam in the 2-way opening, or in the other opening. If you arrange it in the other opening in the same way that you see any other 1-way diff, ie, with the flat of the cam up against the 1° side of the opening, then it would work as a 1-way. It can only spread the ramps when driving forwards - cannot spread the ramps on overrun. It would then appear obvious that if you put the cam into the opening "backwards", that you would get the angled flats of the cam working onto the "points" of the 1° side of the opening, which would give you ramp spread in both loading directions. I do wonder if the forward direction of the 1.5-way config is equivalent to the forward direction of the 2-way, seeing as the cams are flipped and the angled surfaces on those would need to be the same on each side - AND - clearly when installed in either the 2-way or 1-1ay configuration they are not intended to work exactly the same (the ramp angles on the 2-way are 10° different between forward and backward, and the ramp doesn't exist in the 1-way config). 'twere me, I think I would rather actually have a set of rings that offered the 2-way with two different sets of ramp angles, say the 55/45 of the existing design and maybe a 45/37.5 combo for a less aggressive effect), AND another set of rings with a dedicated 1.5-way opening and a dedicated 1-way opening. The 1.5-way opening would actually have the steeper angle on the overdrive side that causes it to be less pushy than the forward drive angle, like you see in many other diffs. But really - if this Nismo thing is thought out properly and all those surfaces work on each other the way that they need to, who am I to argue?
×
×
  • Create New...