Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have purchased a Sliding Performance RB25 hiflow for RB20 and will be installing it on my RB20det over the weekend and thought as there was no results on them with RB20det's I will post all my results here.

The turbo arrived as soon as Aaron promised and my first opinions are it is a good quality product. The machining and finish is very high quality and the CHRA came filled with fully synthetic oil. Both the compressor and turbine are new as well as the whole shaft, bearings and carteridge.

Here are some photos.

100_1180.jpg

100_1179.jpg

100_1178.jpg

100_1177.jpg

100_1176.jpg

100_1175.jpg

100_1174.jpg

100_1173.jpg

The turbo will be going on a mildly modified RB20det with approx 100,000K's and the following

RB20 turbo wastegate

BOS importing split dump/front pipe

3" meatalcat

2.75" kakimoto JASMA approved catback (will be upgrading to 3" later)

TRUST tube and fin FMIC

GTR 444cc injectors

GTR fuel pump

Remapped factory ECU

pneumatic/mechanical turbotech boost controller

NGK copper plugs gapped to 0.9 (factory coils still in good condition)

Stock cams, airbox, BOV, panel filter.

Other modifications to come will also be 1.5 way mechanical diff and brass button clutch.

I will not have a chance to dyno the car and make adjustments to the timing and fuel map untill next Thursday but will post the results once done. currently I estimate the car is making around 140RWKW. I am hoping for 210RWKW once installed.

Will keep you all posted :(

Cheers

  • Replies 231
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

yeah it's funny. I think it is because the snout is tapered it actually looks a lot more bored than it actually is. There is a good bit of meat left on the snout. it just looks super thin in the photos :(

I may have ot re estimate my initial power estimate after calculating the flow of the 2.75" exhaust compared to a 3". I worked out it will flow 19% less than a 3"

If I am wrong please feel free to correct me. but I think it will be a fairly large restriction and I will not have the time or money to replace it untill after the dyno is done.

but we will see how it goes.

Edited by CEF11E

I think you will reach 200rwkws (all depends on the boost you run I guess) with all the mods you have said. You will need to sort out your ecu as you menioned and once thats done I dont see why you cant get what you want even with the 2.75 " exuast. Anymore than about 200-210rwkws you will need to add a z32 as the stock afm will be running out of resolution.

I have the very same turbo, and am equally impressed with the finish and quality of the product.

I just installed it on my RB20 with similar mods but stock ecu. Suppose to be getting a dyno and remap tomorrow but this isnt happening now, so im going to run a remap ecu from a similar turbo until i can get to a dyno.

its pretty laggy on a stock ECU map i can say that much!`

I'm very interested in doing this turbo thing too. Also got a cef, so quite eager to see the results.

Without trying to hi-jack the thread, what do you call 'pretty laggy' simon?

haha arent all rb20's laggy. I had a 2530 on mine in the old sil80 and damn it felt laggy in comparison to a mates sr with a 2530. Pissed me off cause i hate sr's. RB's FOREVER :)

Im guessing full boost by about 4500??

lol, mine hopefully is being milled up today :P

hope to get it installed onto the Stagea within the next few weeks, but we'll have to see what I can get organised - healing from the patellectomy so cant drive for a while yet. :laugh:

Not sure about the oil feed yet. I am going to take mine off first thing saturday morning and head over to pirtek with it and the 2 banjo bolts. will either get a nre braided one made up or mod mine to suit. The banjo bolts have to be drilled out to 6mm and the banjo fittings need to be drilled out to 5mm.

I do have the tools but would rather a pro did it. :laugh:

Interesting to hear about your braided line pricing/specs if you go for that option :)

I want a new turbo too - but dam the delay from Sliding :D:P :P

Just grab another turbo, I have a spare waiting for the hi-flo treatment. Perfect working order, swapped a set of stock R33 wheels for it ;)

wasnt able to get to the dyno today, so i had Jeff from The Speed Lab put my cefiro remap that was suited to the KKR 430 onto my r32, while not perfect its still better then running the stock map with this turbo.

the ceffy remap was tuned for 16-17 psi, but for safety until i get the car onto the duyno, im running 1 bar.

Im getting full boost at over 4000 rpm but before 4500. from then on it pulls extremally hard,

Comparing to my cefiro, which had 200 rwkw, this feels slightly quicker.

The downside is that offboost and while its trying to build boost down low in the rpm range its bloody slow lol.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...