Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I'm just glad to be back driving the damn thing.

I've been driving my Boss's 200sx for the time that mine has been off the road. That period of time was meant to be like two to three weeks. Thanks to Nissan the new bonnet didn't arrive in time for Christmas so the whole car didn't get sprayed until Tuesday or Wednesday last week.

The 200sx is a nice car, it's a lot better than you would normally hope for as a loaner, but I tell you what, I'm SO glad to be back in mine. It's just a lot sharper.

And I can't stop running the back of my hand accross it. She's lovely.

How much does it cost, well, if you were to pay for it probably about $4,500 - $6,000 depending on paint and how much work to do to get the car straight. Mine was paid for mainly by insurance with a little put in by me.

Bec... I'm writing this from the car, doona in the passenger seat :D

The paint is all stock but it's as smooth a virgin's boob.

It's just beatiful. I dont want to drive it now. I work in Dandenong and the dust off all the freeway works coats the car every day.

I wonder how long it would take to ride a bike from Doncaster East to Dandenong ????

They said they put a little sumint sumint into it to give it a bit more pop, but nothing special. Nothing you wouldn't be able to easily match at any time.

I saw it in the sun for a few minutes this arvo, it's even better when it's sunny!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not really, but the heater box is pretty simple mechanically....if the door is one way the air bypasses the heater core and if it is the other way it goes through it for warm air.  If you are sure the actuator you moved manually is for the heater mix (there would also be one for output air direction) then I'd take the heater box out and see what is happening (you'll have to regass and re-coolant the systems afterwards) BTW pp724 onwards from the GTR workshop manual cover the system in good detail, it is probably worth checking. I think the IAT sensor might be a problem electrically for getting cold (if you got 24 error code not -24 it thinks the incoming air is -50c) and it covers how to test the sensor (although most likely it is either not plugged in or a wire is damaged)
    • Use the GKTech subframe bush and bring your subframe 10mm closer to the chassis. You'll need to fix an exhaust hanger to suit. One of the best mods I've done.
    • You'd really have to pull it apart further to know, it least you can be confident that the one heading to the back is not connected any more. There was once a ground on the shifter seal mount too, your head unit issue could be that simple
    • Perfect, I'll get to it this winter then at the same time as I weld on my anti squat kit. 
    • Alright so my 32 only has one temperature no matter what degree you set it to. I’ve tried disconnecting the servo motor arm and moving it either direction and got no change. I’ve fixed the leak in my AC and re charged it and with it on and clutch engaged it still blows hot even though the low pressure pipe going to the firewall is ice cold. Both heater core hoses are hot while running as well. Diagnostic code showed 24 for intake air temperature sensor. Anybody got any ideas?
×
×
  • Create New...