Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just picked up a set of Sard 550cc injectors off a mate.

Bought the sard set due to a convenient price not

as a result of the Nismo vs Sard debate on my other thread... :P

Now like the other thread has anyone used these and

fitted them on themselves?

So far im aware that the O-ring set that comes with

them is no good.

Is there any other issues or dramas anyone has come across whilst

installing these injectors.

Collar set looks odd but hopefully it bolts onto the fuel rail.

Any help with this will be much appreciated.

I'll write a DIY in the tutorials as soon as I get a

chance to fit them on.

Cheers,

Bill

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/149084-sard-550cc-injectors/
Share on other sites

Hmm thats weird cause a lot of ppl have told me that cams and injectors can be tricky and would be better left to a tuner to install them

Its depends on how much mechanical knowlegde you have.

Im a 3rd year Aerospace Engineering student and I have been

playing with turbos since I was young.

My moto is: If someone else can do it, well so can I.

No one is born with knowledge...you attain it.

With this mentality anything is possible!

Kind regards,

Bill

Edited by Nabil
Its depends on how much mechanical knowlegde you have.

Im a 3rd year Aerospace Engineering student and I have been

playing with turbos since I was young.

My moto is: If someone else can do it, well so can I.

No one is born with knowledge...you attain it.

With this mentality anything is possible!

Kind regards,

Bill

mr aerospace engineering

I have them installed

the o ring is shit doesn't even fit - not on mine anyway....I had fuel pissing out everywhere...

I adapted the OEM o-rings...works a treat. They are a bit noisy but I only have stock ones ot compare them to...I run over 250 and they never get over 80% duty.

mr aerospace engineering

I have them installed

the o ring is shit doesn't even fit - not on mine anyway....I had fuel pissing out everywhere...

I adapted the OEM o-rings...works a treat. They are a bit noisy but I only have stock ones ot compare them to...I run over 250 and they never get over 80% duty.

Great...who sells new OEM rings?

As nissan apparently only sells them with the injectors.

Not too keen on re-using my old rings.

Give him a break. I've done the injectors before, and they're piss easy.

All you need is a brain and common sense. e.g. ttake this off, then what is the next logical step. Then do this etc etc.

Shit, fuel is pissing out, obviously i'm gonna turn the engine off.

For f@#$K sake fellas I have done

it before on a CA18 with top feed injectors.

Its my first time to do a RB with side feed injectors.

& I don't believe this "DIRECT BOLT-ON" crap that goes around.

All I ask is for is other peoples anecdotal experiences in

issues they have come across, not a step by step guide.

This has turned into a Comedy Show. ;)

For f@#$K sake fellas I have done

it before on a CA18 with top feed injectors.

Its my first time to do a RB with side feed injectors.

& I don't believe this "DIRECT BOLT-ON" crap that goes around.

All I ask is for is other peoples anecdotal experiences in

issues they have come across, not a step by step guide.

This has turned into a Comedy Show. ;)

lol agreed mate. Good luck getting a straight answer :P

ive fitted several sard injectors to rb25's. 550cc and 850cc types. I used the orings they provided and had no dramas at all with leaking fuel. No dramas with fitting the collars. The only thing that wasnt bolt on was the plugs. Every set i did had to have the plug cut off the injector loom and rewired to suit their plug. However ive been told that this has changed recently and their plugs are now straight plug n play with the std loom. But i dont know how old your injectors are.

Fark it was hard work....im just a dumbarse fabricator...what would i know about mechanics???

P.S You dont goto workshops...cause they are just as bigger dumbarses as anyone else...haha even mechanics and mechanical engineers. It's really quite sad.

Edited by r33_racer

Honestlly

I paid the extra $$$ and bought Nismo 550's this time as they are true bolt in...

I used Sard in the past on my first 33 and they leaked everywhere, none of the injectors sealed and I could not get the OEM rings on without breaking them... I ended up selling them and buying a fuel rail and top feed injectors, it was a bit of a nightmare to be honest...

yes as Col said already...if i was doing it again i would have gotten nismos also. A true straight bolt up set.

yeah I reckon if I was doing it again I would get the NISMOs...but as I got mine for free, including install etc I went was the Sards...and eys the plugs needed changing also..

They work fine once the o-ring issue was sorted out...dunno if they just gave me the wrong ones...kinda ghey for 600 dollars.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...