Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey boys and girls,

as the title suggests, i'm looking at getting a cheap hunk of sh!t so i don't have to worry about driving/parking/racking up k's in the skyline every day.

i'm looking at around/up to the $1000 mark, on the road, ready to go. the running costs like rego, petrol, parts, etc have to be pretty low.

i'd like it to be able to beat my mates atmo auto 1.8 silvia just cos he's such a rice boy (my gf's '84 318i almost beats it lol)

what would you fellas suggest???

EDIT: thats probably missleading, around $1000 total to get it on the road. :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/152143-i-need-a-cheep-car/
Share on other sites

QUOTE!!

i'd like it to be able to beat my mates atmo auto 1.8 silvia just cos he's such a rice boy

LMFAO !! jus buy an xf ute of the side of the road for 500 bucks.....should do the job try n get one runnin on gas / lpg too cheap as chips

Edited by Anthrax....R33

$1000 I reckon is too low to expect something that comes registered, working, AND can get a safety cert. If you go too cheap you'll end up spending too much keeping it on the road, or the dodgy crap will drive you nuts. Or you'll go past a defect station and then you'll have to bin it, as it will stand out too much as being unroadworthy.

I paid 2.5k for my 1990 pulsar with the 1.8.. goes ok, and done about 10k on it in about 10 months without drama so far, and I thrash it to the pants. $1500-3k seems to be the sweet spot for something that'll be reliable enough, and be rego'ed and roadworthy to bother with.

Best shitter i bought was $1500 for an R31, good mechanically for the 18 months, but visually wasn't too exciting.

Lol @ that taxi and needs some repairs to have it on the road or it would be ideal for parts

those "some repairs" could cost you $2k easily on an old car.

lol. love the luxurious feel of those bugs, the interior just sets them above the rest...

beetles are expensive to get parts for arn't they, a mate's dad had a kombi and it sold for a fair wod of cash,and another friend had a "rare" beetle back in school, it was a hunk and he sold it for $5k, and even tho there is about a billion of them. i think people just love the beetleness of them

i think $1000 should be enough, in my group of mates there has been 4 R31's and a VL, ,and noone seemed to be able to kill any of them, except by hitting very hard things very fast, but even then they came off okay-ish. they ranged from $300-$4500, and the cheaper ones seemed to handle abuse better than the expensive ones. food for thought.

thanks for the input fellas, more opinions always welcome.

trent

Beat a auto atmo 1.8L silvia? dunno... but who cares. I got my line for owning sooks.

thats a good point, its just that he bought it to do an engine conv, and so far hes changed the headlights, wheels, air filter, spoiler, speakers, and now he wants paint and a bodykit.

i found this.

http://search.carsguide.news.com.au/news/f...p;vehicleType=3

and this

http://search.carsguide.news.com.au/news/f...p;vehicleType=3

probably be able to bargain them down below a grand, and i'l find someone who will give it a roady.

wont be cheap to feed or fix tho... but it'll be fun atleast

Paid $1,800 for my twincam rolla with rego till oct 07 and has RWC.

bit high on the km's but awesome on fuel, and cheap as shit parts.

Beat a auto atmo 1.8L silvia? dunno... but who cares. I got my line for owning sooks.

VL is cheap and easy, it was my second choice after the Rolla (if I couldn't find one), but uses more fuel by far.

If you want a twincam model of the AE82 you'll most likely be stuck with the seca version.... it took me a bit before I found my car. Most are overpriced imo. Mostly because they are wanted by so many people....

I figure with my car if the engine dies (300,000km, interior is clean!), I'll throw in another one... they are cheap :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ok so if i wanted to go 18's i would go for 8's  in front 30+ or 32+ off set at front and the back 9 would be ok? what offset should i aim for.. then can i do some  hunting for wheel rim choices..    If i get this - will this fit all around: Size: 18 x 8.5 +37 - n what tyres size tyre should i get for front n back?  
    • Absolute f*cking nightmare. I had to take breaks constantly, and I was always pissed off when I got home. The line split in Italy on day 2 (we drove from the Netherlands), lol. Driving any narrow European town was... well, sh*t.   Appreciate it man. Here, I'll just drop a favourite from the load I took on Saturday.   I'll update here when things happen with the car, the thing is, with stock power and almost everything chassis-wise taken care of, there really are no problems. 268,000kms now and counting.  
    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
×
×
  • Create New...