Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My calcs show 8.07:1 comp ratio running the 86mm n/a rb30e -1cc dished pistons (due to valve reliefs), 85mm stroke, stock headgsaket, 63cc combustion chamber.

According to a bloke on ct.com who measured the n/a and t pistons, the stock n/a pistons are 1cc dished due to the valve reliefs

Doing the calcs they do appear to return roughly the expected comp ratio.

Maybe mine is running more comp and the measurements were stuffed up. I do doubt it though as Ash's R32 runs the same ignition timing as I and had an almost identical power curve (except for top end where his developed a strange power loss). He runs the n/a pistons, so the 14cc dome pistons I run MUST be damn close to the same sized dome as the rb30e pistons.

I have done a comp test BUT the motor was cold, I had the injectors out so I thought I would check for variation.

All cylinders were suprisingly exact apart from number 3 that was from memory 1 psi down. I think from memory they came up around 158psi. I made a post when I did the comp ratio, I should dig it up. Either way ~158psi with the cams and head I'm running is what the n/a piston rb30det's achieve. *According to RIPS in NZ (SDU)*

alrighty.

Well the cp's state that with std headgasket and their 25/30 coversion pistons you will get about 8.3:1 and so far from what ive heard it seems to be at least half accurate. So then i guess my calcs worked out right if others are using same parts and getting the cr stated. Either way around that CR is all we are aiming for for the race car. So things are looking good so far.

The CP Pistons.

Run a 1.280" compression height.

I've double checked the wiseco catalog and it states with a comp height of 1.260" you will achieve a deck clearance of 0.040".

The 1.260" piston will sit 0.040" down the bore. + the headgasket it will give you a sloppy 2mm (0.040") quench.

The CP 1.280" comp height piston will sit 0.020" down the bore.

So what does this mean.. The STOCK RB30 N/A piston must run a 1.260" compression height (piston sits 0.040" down the bore) to achieve its 9:1 compression with the sohc head.

I swear the rb30 block in the shed 'looks' as if it has zero deck clearance. hrmm maybe not.

Does any one have a picture of the top of a CP RB30 flat top piston or know if they run valve reliefs, I would assume so.

If so does any one have their spec sheet laying around on the dish cc?

Providing the CP has no valve reliefs they will achieve a comp ratio of 7.9:1.

Should you deck the block 0.020" for that 0 deck clearance it will raise the comp to around 8.2-8.3:1.

Thats using my head cc measurements of 62.2cc's and a gasket thickness of 0.040".

Wish I knew this earlier... Looks as if the CP's specs are the better suited pistons that I know of. :)

Nice comp ratio for some good boost + a really nice quench.

8.2-8.3:1 ... As Mr. NIB said. :ermm:

I have the cp spec sheet with me here...and like ive said before there is zero intake and exhaust valve relief, dish depth is nothing and dome height is 0. as you said cubes they run a 1.28" comp height.

Hmm ok...looks like more research is needed to double check this again.

Has anyone who has left there engine mounts as per standard in there rb25/30 conversion been able to close there bonnet using the standard intake plenum?? Mine will click in the first notch but thats it which i think will be usafe to drive over 60k's. I dont want to go for an aftermarket bonnet as i want to keep the car looking as stock as possible, perhaps a small bonnet scoop, got to find one that would appropriate. The other way i was thinking was of chopping the support bars from the underneath of the bonnet where they are fouling on the inlet plenum, is this a bad idea??

My calcs show 8.07:1 comp ratio running the 86mm n/a rb30e -1cc dished pistons (due to valve reliefs), 85mm stroke, stock headgsaket, 63cc combustion chamber.

According to a bloke on ct.com who measured the n/a and t pistons, the stock n/a pistons are 1cc dished due to the valve reliefs

Doing the calcs they do appear to return roughly the expected comp ratio.

Maybe mine is running more comp and the measurements were stuffed up. I do doubt it though as Ash's R32 runs the same ignition timing as I and had an almost identical power curve (except for top end where his developed a strange power loss). He runs the n/a pistons, so the 14cc dome pistons I run MUST be damn close to the same sized dome as the rb30e pistons.

I have done a comp test BUT the motor was cold, I had the injectors out so I thought I would check for variation.

All cylinders were suprisingly exact apart from number 3 that was from memory 1 psi down. I think from memory they came up around 158psi. I made a post when I did the comp ratio, I should dig it up. Either way ~158psi with the cams and head I'm running is what the n/a piston rb30det's achieve. *According to RIPS in NZ (SDU)*

Joel,

So are you saying the RB30e pistons are 1cc dished?? Arent they normally dome tops?

so what comp ratio do you work out with the RB30e pistons, and RB25n/a head?

Are tht CP pistons that are made for the conversion the same dome as a RB30e piston?

The CP Pistons.

Run a 1.280" compression height.

I've double checked the wiseco catalog and it states with a comp height of 1.260" you will achieve a deck clearance of 0.040".

The 1.260" piston will sit 0.040" down the bore. + the headgasket it will give you a sloppy 2mm (0.040") quench.

The CP 1.280" comp height piston will sit 0.020" down the bore.

So what does this mean.. The STOCK RB30 N/A piston must run a 1.260" compression height (piston sits 0.040" down the bore) to achieve its 9:1 compression with the sohc head.

I swear the rb30 block in the shed 'looks' as if it has zero deck clearance. hrmm maybe not.

Does any one have a picture of the top of a CP RB30 flat top piston or know if they run valve reliefs, I would assume so.

If so does any one have their spec sheet laying around on the dish cc?

Providing the CP has no valve reliefs they will achieve a comp ratio of 7.9:1.

Should you deck the block 0.020" for that 0 deck clearance it will raise the comp to around 8.2-8.3:1.

Thats using my head cc measurements of 62.2cc's and a gasket thickness of 0.040".

Wish I knew this earlier... Looks as if the CP's specs are the better suited pistons that I know of. :P

Nice comp ratio for some good boost + a really nice quench.

8.2-8.3:1 ... As Mr. NIB said. :)

the block in my shed also looks like it doesnt have any clearance whatsoever

Has anyone who has left there engine mounts as per standard in there rb25/30 conversion been able to close there bonnet using the standard intake plenum?? Mine will click in the first notch but thats it which i think will be usafe to drive over 60k's. I dont want to go for an aftermarket bonnet as i want to keep the car looking as stock as possible, perhaps a small bonnet scoop, got to find one that would appropriate. The other way i was thinking was of chopping the support bars from the underneath of the bonnet where they are fouling on the inlet plenum, is this a bad idea??

why didn't you do the engine mounts? Surely you've been through this thread and Joel's PDF before you did the conversion so you must have know they needed doing!

why didn't you do the engine mounts? Surely you've been through this thread and Joel's PDF before you did the conversion so you must have know they needed doing!

Shifting the engine mounts down will cause problems to the gear box, drive shaft, cv's and basically the whole drive line...

Foolboost is running the motor in a GTS4 so as I remember Sky30 saying the only way it can be done is by lowering the subframe some how.

I envy the Attessa + rb30 package. :(

I don't know the particulars.

Sky30.... The 1cc dish measurement was by some bloke on calaisturbo.com.

I do see it as being feasible as sure they are slightly domed looking BUT they have quite large valve reliefs.

+ it works out when you do the comp calcs.

The CP pistons as stated have NO valve reliefs so they are a true flat top.

The RB30e piston with a 53cc sohc head, 1cc dish (due to valve reliefs) and 0.020" deck clearance (1.280" same as CP) is required to achieve its factory 9:1 compression.

Thats taking in to account the std headgasket squashing .2 of a mm..

I have no idea if this is correct but its the value that returns a 9:1 comp ratio.

IF the std headgasket doesn't squish by .2 of a mm then if you remove the 1cc dish from the piston it drops the comp ratio smack on 9:1.

Any one know how much the std headgaskets squash by?

Either way.. its very close.

If I change the heads cc from 53cc (SOHC) to the DET head of (62.2cc in my case) the std comp ratio 'should' be 7.98:1.

A little lower than the expected 8.2-8.3:1. :(

Then if I dial in my piston specs, deck clearance and headgasket it shows myself as running an 8.9:1 comp ratio. wtf.

I have NFI.. its too hard. :nyaanyaa:

Here's a good little Java calculator if any one wants a fiddle.

http://www.csgnetwork.com/compcalc.html

A quick run down on the specs for those that are unsure.

Bore - 86mm

Stroke - 85mm

Headgasket Bore - 86mm (same as bore)

Compressed headgasket thickness - 1mm (headgasket thickness once torqued up.. what does the std squish?)

Piston dome - std RB30e (0cc to -1cc), rb30et (-11cc), CP (0cc), Wiseco rb25 (14cc), Wiseco rb30 (-11.1cc)

Deck clearance - std rb30e (possible .5mm), CP (.5mm), Wiseco rb25 with decked block (1mm)

i had clearence issues with fitting my rb30 block but not on the plenum, coz i got a vented bonnet the cam gear cover left corner hits the bonnet so thats getting trimmed down to fit, but in terms of hitting the plenum i was fine, although the piping coming across the radiator area had to be made to go down a little bit... when i 1st saw the motor in i thought theres no chance in hell ill get close to closing my bonnet it will hit everything ( i now have a custom plenum though so its no longer an issue anyway)...i didnt want to change any mounts either

ben...

i had clearence issues with fitting my rb30 block but not on the plenum, coz i got a vented bonnet the cam gear cover left corner hits the bonnet so thats getting trimmed down to fit, but in terms of hitting the plenum i was fine, although the piping coming across the radiator area had to be made to go down a little bit... when i 1st saw the motor in i thought theres no chance in hell ill get close to closing my bonnet it will hit everything ( i now have a custom plenum though so its no longer an issue anyway)...i didnt want to change any mounts either

ben...

Sounds good Ben any pics of the vented bonnet? Mines an r32 so a little diff, i might have to go aftermarket bonnet but they do seem a bit to chunky for my liking, or else scoop from either a mustang cobra or a holden manaro have crossed my mind and i think would suit the 32 quite well, what do you guys think?

post-26467-1146469771.jpg

post-26467-1146469788.jpg

post-26467-1146469806.jpg

post-26467-1146469815.jpg

post-26467-1146469857.jpg

Edited by FOOLBOOST

Here's a little quote from the calaisturbo bloke that did a little measuring.

Measurements i got were

63cc for twin cam head

55cc for single cam head

21.3cc for 86mm bore, piston 3.5mm from TDC, cyc vol,

and head gasket 87mm bore, 1mm thick.

With these figures i got 20.33cc displacment of piston from 3.5mm down to TDC with measured at 21.3cc the piston is 0.97cc dished.

Head gasket makes up 5.94cc.

So add the head volume, 63cc with the piston @TDC volume and gasket volume together to get a total combustion chamber of 69.91cc.

Then the compression ratio is the cyclinder volume at BDC compared to volume at TDC, BDCcc/TDCcc.

BDC volume is for 86mm bore and 85mm stroke is 493.7cc piston displacment + CC of 69.91cc = 563.61cc.

and 563.61cc / 69.91cc = 8.06

8.06:1 comp ratio.

If you do all the same calculations with a 55cc head volume (SOHC head) you get 8.98:1, which verifies the results/measurements!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
×
×
  • Create New...