Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Where have you people who are using R33 heads been plumbing you oil return pipe from the front right hand side of the head? do you get a "T" peice and blumb it into the turbo drain into the sump?

cheers :P

After a lot of hard work and long nights my RB30det is now in the car.

I have spent a few hours tonight trying to get it started and have not got there yet. this is frustrating

Fuel pump working - check.

CAS working - when i remove it and rotate it with the ignition on the injectors click and the fuel pump turns on

everything is wired up bar 1 plug on the AAC valve. the r32 loom has no provision for it.

I am still working out the best way to test spark. any ideas?

I have had to use R33 turbo injectors and it involved cutting up the original loom and grafting in the plugs but I have done it before for GTR injectors and no problems.

the motor turns over fine just does not start

when the crank is set to o deg btdc the cams line up with the locator pin marks perfectly.

so its fuel or spark i am missing or some electrical gremlin somewhere. if anyone has any ideal please shoot them my way. my goal was to have it running by tomorrow night.

so so tired...

After a lot of hard work and long nights my RB30det is now in the car.

I have spent a few hours tonight trying to get it started and have not got there yet. this is frustrating

Fuel pump working - check.

CAS working - when i remove it and rotate it with the ignition on the injectors click and the fuel pump turns on

everything is wired up bar 1 plug on the AAC valve. the r32 loom has no provision for it.

I am still working out the best way to test spark. any ideas?

I have had to use R33 turbo injectors and it involved cutting up the original loom and grafting in the plugs but I have done it before for GTR injectors and no problems.

the motor turns over fine just does not start

when the crank is set to o deg btdc the cams line up with the locator pin marks perfectly.

so its fuel or spark i am missing or some electrical gremlin somewhere. if anyone has any ideal please shoot them my way. my goal was to have it running by tomorrow night.

so so tired...

What ecu are you running? If aftermarket, what was it previously tuned for?

I am using the following bits

RB30E bottom end :P

RB25DE VCT head from an R33 - removed VCT solenoid and used the hole to feed oil to the head -

stock plenum R33

R33 injectors

R33 AAC valve

R33 tps, (all sensors on the head are R33

R32 CAS

R32 ECU remapped to suit the 370cc injectors

Will try the timing light tonight. hmmmm

wake up at 6am go to work finish work at 4pm. go home work on car till 1am. sleep for 5 hours - repeat for 3 weeks...

damn i am tired...

car should start with no afm, it'll just run like a pig and stall etc etc lol

it could be that ur battery isnt supplying enough juice

have u checked to make sure theres fuel getting to the rail?

thanks dudes :P

pulled the timing cover off and made sure the cas key is correctly set to the cam key.

the afm is plugged in and there is fuel getting to the rail. I am starting to think it is of 2 things.

1. there is no spark. because i have tried advancing and retarding the cas and no difference. and i can hear the injectors pulsing.

2. I have buggered up the injector firing order while making the new injector loom. this wil be a bastard to diagnose and will mean pulling off the plenum again.

I will make sure i am getting spark tonight.

also battery would be going flat but seems to turn over the motor fine. I am sure it is something silly. it will get there.

Also how long should you have to turn over the motor with ignition disconnected to get oil pressure?

who knows...pull off your oil feed line to the turbo and let it spit into a bucket for a while and then hook it back up. Once it spits abit out of the line there should be oil pretty well everywhere else. It doesnt take long for it to work its way through the motor.

may sound silly but a similair thing happened to me on my first start up that cubes will remember, haha!

It just turned out that my fuel lines were the wrong way round where they connect near the plenum!

may sound silly but a similair thing happened to me on my first start up that cubes will remember, haha!

It just turned out that my fuel lines were the wrong way round where they connect near the plenum!

HAHAH ive done that before :thumbsup:

Dash lights are all on when cranking?

you can also try the carbie cleaner trick in the TB then crank, if it coughs like it wants to start, then you have no fuel and do have spark.

Well she is in and running :thumbsup:

rough as guts but running...

mr rbman you my friend are owed beers :(

just before you posted this this afternoon I looked at an RB photo and realized exactly what i had done. I then had to sit at work and look interested for the next 3 hours...

race home swap them over and ALIVE! it will not hold an idle and misses loke no tomorrow but it is running. tuning and testing will commence in a few days :) I have had enough for now

haha, thought your problem sounded far too familiar!

Well she is in and running :)

rough as guts but running...

mr rbman you my friend are owed beers :(

just before you posted this this afternoon I looked at an RB photo and realized exactly what i had done. I then had to sit at work and look interested for the next 3 hours...

race home swap them over and ALIVE! it will not hold an idle and misses loke no tomorrow but it is running. tuning and testing will commence in a few days :D I have had enough for now

I have a question re CP Pistons.

I know they are off the shelf ones available for the 26/30 combo...

Is there anyway that these can be customised to tolerate high horsepower / boost applications? I am going to more than likely get a set with a 22mm pin diameter. I've read that the rings can be moved down on the piston for high boost. Can someone give me some info about getting a set custom made?

Also, dry sumps. Has anyone bought a dry sump for the RB30 motor? If so, where did you get it from and how much was it?

CP will make one off custom sets to order - the price is considerably more.

You must be planning to make an immense amount of power as there are a lot of off the shelf CP's out there making spastic power.

I have a question re CP Pistons.

I know they are off the shelf ones available for the 26/30 combo...

Is there anyway that these can be customised to tolerate high horsepower / boost applications? I am going to more than likely get a set with a 22mm pin diameter. I've read that the rings can be moved down on the piston for high boost. Can someone give me some info about getting a set custom made?

Also, dry sumps. Has anyone bought a dry sump for the RB30 motor? If so, where did you get it from and how much was it?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...