Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im hoping to be selling them in a package deal with rods and pistons to suit. ( Either std length rod and custom piston or vise versa )

I had been thinking about it for a while and it was Kyle who got me back on track with the idea. Once I get the RB30 crank sorted I want to do one for the RB26 and so on.

You guys must have a shed full of old race motors by now :-)

awesome news brad! Kyle was talking about doing a stroker conversion kit for the rb30's to bring it up to 3.3 or 3.4 litres also. But that was a little while ago. If youve got it going already thats great.'

I think we will be due to build a new race motor in the new year when we get back from the states. Depending on price, I could con my father into a stroked rb30 if its not too exxy.

dano, I've already got one lined up :D

And 33's must have more clearance standard than 32's.. standard mounts and my bonnet rubs on the front of the intake manifold and the timing belt cover, that's with 10mm spacers at the back (all the spacers did was stop the bonnet from flexing as much when I shut it :D)

will this 3540 fit lowmounted? apparently the housing has been rotated and a spacer mad up to clear cam cover

The sort of money you mentioned is a great deal for all that stuff. He normally sells a long block for 4995.

Id be interested in the plenum if its to suit rb25det (r32).

Personally id swap to the 33 head if i was in your position, for simplicity

actually he dosnt. i asked him when i saw him. unless i misunderstood but he explained his using something else. he complained that a 3.0L was to much of a hassle. he used something smaller size wise. :blink:

Correction: You are right.

His original engine did use the rb30, but i know he has redone the engine since then and he may have changed his setup. As you know Ben likes to keep his secrets :)

Some crude measurements of the GT35R left us thinking it will hit the strut tower if on a low mount in the stock location. Can't be assed with squeezing stuff in so going high mount instead along with a RIPS plenum. (low mount I would have been able to keep the stock plenum and piping). Looks like I'm going to use a TuneAgent exhaust manifold too :whistling:

OT 'again' :S

VQ30DET in an R32 GTST. All alloy; possibility of working something out with the VQ35DET. :rofl:

This was done quite some time ago now, i know the guy that did it in Perth, made high `460rwhp on < 10psi. not bad for a stock engine and a "blower"

Steve from Maytech Performance in Perth is the VQ30 guru - he puts them in lots of different cars and has custom bell housings etc

This was done quite some time ago now, i know the guy that did it in Perth, made high `460rwhp on < 10psi. not bad for a stock engine and a "blower"

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...