Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Rb30 Conversion

JNR24

By JNR24,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Guilt-Toy Grand Master

Guilt-Toy

Posted
Posted

mine is in the lower 8:1's as well, probly 8.1:1 with the 25 head, i am starting to think its a clearance engine.

my motor is a clearance motor and has a static comp ratio of about 8.3:1
  • Replies 7.2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Duncan
Duncan

Just thought I would bump this 20 year old thread because the Skid Factory have just posted up a video summarising a lot of the content, format might be more familiar for newer members

JNR24
JNR24

fyi guys, Well yesturday i picked up a RB30 for my conversion into my R33. I will be using my RB25DET head on the RB30 block. So i started stripping the motor down, pulled the crank, pistons, girdle

Cubes
Cubes

Here is all I have at the moment: http://www.geocities.com/r32_jjc/ Unless you are on broad band make sure you right click then save as. The file is around 120kb. If there is anything I have got w

Posted Images

Alf Proficient

Alf

Posted
Posted (edited)

As R33-Racer said u would have to have really low comp to make it "free running"

You would need serious bowl pistons or a lower top dead centre.

To give you an idea, a stock RB30ET is in the 7s and is still an interference motor.

To test it: remove your timing belt and crank the motor over by hand if it hits a valve you know the answer. keep trying this with turning the cams a few degrees and cranking it by hand, ull get the idea.

Out of all the interference motors with broken belts that have come in through work only 1% have escaped the carnage. There is a very small chance that when the timing belt snaps that the cam/s will be in the right position so all the valves will be shut/ clear the pistons.

Edited by Alf
MBS206 Grand Master

MBS206

Posted
Posted

Alrighty guys,

Just went through the RB30DET faq again.

And I need to know HOW to lower the motor the 12 and 15 mm each side as required when running the stock 25 inlet mani.

Is it a matter of pulling the mounts out, and shaving 15mm off the bottom of each, or what?

mr_rbman Grand Master

mr_rbman

Posted
Posted

took my car out for its first track day on the weekend and after my first session i found quite a bit of oil in the engine bay from my catch can. i have a stock built rb30 with rb25de head (non vvt) with rb20 oil pump and no restrictors. My catch can had a filter on top and 4 1/4" holes so i thought it was building pressure causing the oil to shoot out so i added 4 more holes and made them all bigger which helped but i was still getting probably close to 200ml of oil in the catch can after every 15 min session. Is there any way of fixing this without chucking the restrictors in the block? also incase it makes a difference the catch can is running off the two outlets on the cam covers.

Cheers!

GT-RZ Community Regular

GT-RZ

Posted
Posted

picking up an rb30 this weekend and 25 head. just reading through the pdf file for the conversion it mentions that i need to make sure the block has provision for the oil/water return and that both lower tensioner locations are machined flat. this engine is coming out of an R31 GXE i believe. any know if this engine will have the above? don't wanna buy something i can't use.

dmac_25 Grand Master

dmac_25

Posted
Posted

Hey all,

Just chucking this out there could it be possible using the rb20det head getting it ported and putting bigger valves in it just reading the pdf and could it be possible putting in the 25 valves and make it work?

Because i have a rb20det head out of a wreck and a rb30e out of another one.

Just chucking it out there to see if it possible?

Regards

Al Grand Master

Al

Posted
Posted
plazmaman plenum still hits the bonnet.

That sucks, GReddy FTW!

The factory plenum shouldn't hit the std 33 bonnet only hits the strut brace. Since i use my car for track/motorkahna days i wanted to keep the strut brace and went for a GReddy plenum.

[200] Mentor

[200]

Posted
Posted

What are people paying to get their bottom ends built up?

I was quoted for the following,

$220 to balance rods and crank, extra $55 for flexplate

$375 to change from 11mm head studs to 1/2"

$75.90 to crack test the crank and check grind

$82.50 to linish the crank if needed

$400 for tunnel bore and check main bearings

$190 for a rebore

Anything else?

MBS206 Grand Master

MBS206

Posted
Posted

So, are people actually going to answer the question, not give bullshit responses?

How exactly can you fit the RB25/30 into the R33 GTS-t WITH a strut brace fitted, and NO, I'm not putting on a new plenum.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • joshuaho96
      Cas issue

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • joshuaho96
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...