Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Wow finally read it all, took around 2-3 weeks haha. Awesome thread!

Anyhow, I have a spare RB30 short motor if anybody is interested in adelaide. It's a S2 from an R31 and appears to be good condition. I bought it to do the conversion, but have since purchased a different motor to use for ease and because of money. haha.

Yeah, its all here minus the sump so if anyone is interested for a conversion just send a PM!

Jack

Brad, keep a set of CP RB30 9:1 pistons and Spool rods for me. Through sheer luck a 26 head and intake manifold dropped into my lap so I might as well build another and offer someone the gift of 26/30 goodness.

Hey guys. I made a topic out of this but havent yet got a a reply and thought this might be a better place to ask the question. I hope thats ok

Recently i got my fully built rb25/30 up and running after a year long build. The only untouched component in my engine bay is the fuel rail everything else is either aftermarket or had work done to it. I'm using a haltech e11v2 ecu & atm the car is load limited. Basically what happens is at 6,500rpm the engine will stop reving any faster unless the wheels are spinning in which case the load is taken off the engine and it will rev out. Its not a harsh limiter it just will stop revving any faster and the exhaust sounds like it flutters very fast. The ecu has an inbuilt rev and boost limiter but they are both set above wastegate pressure & the current rev limit.

I didnt relise until recently but i found out a few of my mates using different model haltechs have had numerous issues. I now know i should of cashed out the extra money and gone a motec but whats done is done. Rob at 101 is a really smart guy and he told me he'd be able to work it out eventually but the longer he spends working it out on the dyno they more my bill will be. I was hoping someone else might of come across this before and already worked out the answer.

Hey guys. I made a topic out of this but havent yet got a a reply and thought this might be a better place to ask the question. I hope thats ok

Recently i got my fully built rb25/30 up and running after a year long build. The only untouched component in my engine bay is the fuel rail everything else is either aftermarket or had work done to it. I'm using a haltech e11v2 ecu & atm the car is load limited. Basically what happens is at 6,500rpm the engine will stop reving any faster unless the wheels are spinning in which case the load is taken off the engine and it will rev out. Its not a harsh limiter it just will stop revving any faster and the exhaust sounds like it flutters very fast. The ecu has an inbuilt rev and boost limiter but they are both set above wastegate pressure & the current rev limit.

I didnt relise until recently but i found out a few of my mates using different model haltechs have had numerous issues. I now know i should of cashed out the extra money and gone a motec but whats done is done. Rob at 101 is a really smart guy and he told me he'd be able to work it out eventually but the longer he spends working it out on the dyno they more my bill will be. I was hoping someone else might of come across this before and already worked out the answer.

The answer to what?

What's the question/problem?

have an rb30 twin cam in a 32 and would like to put a brake master cylinder brace on but with the different height of the motor i'm thinking the off the shelf ones won't fit?

what have other people in my position done?

Cheers!

I have a Cusco master cylinder brace and it all fits fine with the rb30 in there.

ah cool, thought u may have had issues with the different heights of the motor.

Where did you and scooby get yours from?

Do u have pics, i may have a go at making one myself.

Cheers!

Hi Ash, got mine from Jap auctions. I've got a spare Nismo one without the stopper you can have for $50 plus postage. Probably not worth making one for that price I just don't need it.

what exactly is the stopper? do i need it and will it suit a 32?

Has anyone fitted a high energy HE2112 VL 3.0L Commodore Super Pan $458.53* into a 32 without having to use a custom made front sway bar?

http://highenergy.com.au/index.php?module=...5539231984-1177

1105702755453-8851.jpg

A few pages back, Al had problems with his HE8124 Pro-Circuit 3.0 VL/Nissan, 4 Gates, 7L, P/Up clearing the sway bar.

Well, my engine had its "dummy fit" yesterday and all the clearances etc checked. All good to be assembled next week. I'm starting to think i should of gone 280 cams instead of the 264/272 option after reading around the net. One thing that was picked up was i have a R34 RB26 head and i got cams to suit the R32/33 RB26 head for ease of finding a crank angle sensor later on. Well the HKS valve springs to suit my cams held 7psi less than the R34 factory valve springs. I now have aftermarket ones that almost hold double the pressure. This stuff is way over my head but by memory, the HKS springs held 38psi so the stock ones were 7 psi above that and the new ones (can't remember the brand) held 75psi. I don't know what these numbers mean but more is better i presume. The ATI balancer looks pretty too. I hope my stall converter is big enough for the T04z as well.

I am finding it hard to choose between the Haltech E11 v2 or EMS 6860. Any help from you guys would be appreciated. The car will be primarily a drag car. I am wanting to have a low boost level for 1st and then a higher setting for 2nd and top gears. Also i would like to run 2 seperate maps if possible maybe even 3 switchable seperate maps.

Cheers

Steve

Well mine is back on the road; but in run-in tune. :D

Couldn't be happier, i keep grinning every time i press the GO peddle.

Below is a few pics of the completed engine bay and the run-in tune. The boost is very responsive, and that's only controlled by the actuator (no bleed valve, EBC or restricters) Once i have completed 1000km, it will be wound up to 20psi, then the fun really begins :)

post-1811-1205083276_thumb.jpg

post-1811-1205083313_thumb.jpg

post-1811-1205083333_thumb.jpg

post-1811-1205083352_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
×
×
  • Create New...