Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well I received my EPA in the mail, doesn't mention anything about the modifications he found but other than the exhaust it has all been put back to stock, gonna go down to an exhaust shop tomorrow to see what they can do but its 3" turbo back and 3.5" after the cat so it's pretty loud and I'm thinking stock catback with POSSIBLY the metal plate as R31Nismoid mentioned above added in is the only way it'll pass, any suggestions?

Cheers.

Yeah just spoke to an exhaust guy and he said it'll pass with stock cat back which is good, now I need to find someone who will lend it to me for a week in exchange for a slab or something..

Do they care that my N/A airbox doesn't fit properly with stock turbo piping and is only bolted down with one bolt? surely they wouldnt..

Is it full emissions test or noise only ? I got stock cat back but a guys borrowing for an EPA At the moment should have it back by this time next week welcome to borrow if you don't find one sooner

Well I'm not really sure thats the thing, the TMU officer pointed out manual boost controller, pod+intercooler and loud exhaust, now gone back to stock with the controller cos it was useless anyway, airbox is on (N/A one doesnt even fit :/ ) and the exhaust I suppose has to be under 90dB. It doesn't specifically state any modifications on the form but it says "Emission Control Systems And Noise" as the title :( $80.70 to get it tested it says.

Well I'm not really sure thats the thing, the TMU officer pointed out manual boost controller, pod+intercooler and loud exhaust, now gone back to stock with the controller cos it was useless anyway, airbox is on (N/A one doesnt even fit :/ ) and the exhaust I suppose has to be under 90dB. It doesn't specifically state any modifications on the form but it says "Emission Control Systems And Noise" as the title :( $80.70 to get it tested it says.

Yea that's a full EPA. Car must be completely stock or legal (1 intake mod)

So I can leave the intercooler on? Cos theres a hole cut for that nor do I have the original cooler.

Leave the cooler on and have your stock airbox on. If your car isn't heavily moded you'll be fine

I know :( Previous owner has it for 6 years with the mods doesn't even get pulled over, I get stuck in a booze bus 2 weeks after purchase and I get done for his mods :( At least theres no massive mods, exhaust is all I have to worry about now.

Leave the cooler on and have your stock airbox on. If your car isn't heavily moded you'll be fine

Is there a difference between an N/A and GTS-T airbox or have I just set it up all wrong cos it hardly fits :P

I've had 1 full EPA with current mods and think there may be another one on it's way. But for me I have to change: turbo, injectors, afm, exhaust, boost controller and ECU. So yours will be fine

I know :( Previous owner has it for 6 years with the mods doesn't even get pulled over, I get stuck in a booze bus 2 weeks after purchase and I get done for his mods :( At least theres no massive mods, exhaust is all I have to worry about now.

Is there a difference between an N/A and GTS-T airbox or have I just set it up all wrong cos it hardly fits :P

Na and turbo are different boxes mate

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...