Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

^ Totally agree as usual Nik :D

The EPA laws for the most part are in many cases from 1992. Very out of touch with the real world as it stands today. However reforms simply won't come until the Gov't realise there is money in it.

As there most certainly is - do what WA do with the "mod permit" scheme. Each mod(s) require certs/permits as long as they are within reason.

Then charge money for such certs/inspections. Gov't would make a fk'en fortune and we could all drive legally on the streets (again, within reason) :)

Sadly it is the muppets that ruin it for everyone else. People putting blown/injected V8s into Cortinas case point number one. They just were not built to have 800hp motors in them and a LOT of people dodge the conversions up. Of course some do it right, but they are always a minority as it costs money to do a proper conversion mechanically.

Oh and many congrats btw mate :thumbsup:

Woohoo..coped my first defect in the Gtr after having my license for 3 weeks for being too low, it's only a minor. What ball park in price will I be looking at to get it raised, it has Olins coilovers

Woohoo..coped my first defect in the Gtr after having my license for 3 weeks for being too low, it's only a minor. What ball park in price will I be looking at to get it raised, it has Olins coilovers

You're lucky. I got defected for height a week ago and they gave me a major so I needed RWC.

You would be looking at roughly $100 in labour to adjust suspension and then you should also consider a wheel alignment.

Do you know how much lower than legal it was? If it's not much you could get the mechanic to tuck the exhaust up a bit (by far the lowest point on mine when I got defected a few months back), bigger tyres will also help obviously if you're able to borrow them from somewhere.

If they look at the tyre placard then you won't pass with high profile tyres etc.

Sometimes they might, sometimes they might not.

Well hopefully they don't check. And Ric, the exhaust is the lowest point but it's low by quite abit exhaust tuck won't do much I reckon even though it's the lowest point

You can ask the suspension place to put some rubber spacers in. This may get you out of trouble and take care of some of the sag in the springs which occur over time.

Attending to the exhaust and raising it up slightly is a good idea.

Hrmm that sucks drove all the way to my house to borrow a C-spanner for nothing.

Not sure what you can do James because looking at your car your exhaust was very low

Either stock exhaust or stock suspension are my only ideas :(

the make it not hang so low? or if you want to get fancy they'll custom make the piping to go above shit, my one they made the hangers shorter i believe..

probably helped that i know them hence paying $50 but eh its really not that hard like your implying

Hmmm interesting.

Custom making piping is pretty expensive (definitely not $50), but I get where you are going with re making the hangars. That would cost your quoted $50, so you are spot on. Getting the hangers changed would work pretty well, so it's a good suggestion. :thumbsup:

exhaust tuck will 100% solve your problems you can get it basically flush against the under body costs fk all to tuck an exhaust

Flush under the body is going to melt $hit! you need at least 25mm (the requirement). Stainless sheet with air gaps are your friend.

I'm not implying it's hard. Hell, I made the whole stainless system on my 1600 including the dump (took me 4 days just for the dump mind you because I made it from scratch, but did get the flanges laser cut...)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...