Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

^ Totally agree as usual Nik :D

The EPA laws for the most part are in many cases from 1992. Very out of touch with the real world as it stands today. However reforms simply won't come until the Gov't realise there is money in it.

As there most certainly is - do what WA do with the "mod permit" scheme. Each mod(s) require certs/permits as long as they are within reason.

Then charge money for such certs/inspections. Gov't would make a fk'en fortune and we could all drive legally on the streets (again, within reason) :)

Sadly it is the muppets that ruin it for everyone else. People putting blown/injected V8s into Cortinas case point number one. They just were not built to have 800hp motors in them and a LOT of people dodge the conversions up. Of course some do it right, but they are always a minority as it costs money to do a proper conversion mechanically.

Oh and many congrats btw mate :thumbsup:

Woohoo..coped my first defect in the Gtr after having my license for 3 weeks for being too low, it's only a minor. What ball park in price will I be looking at to get it raised, it has Olins coilovers

Woohoo..coped my first defect in the Gtr after having my license for 3 weeks for being too low, it's only a minor. What ball park in price will I be looking at to get it raised, it has Olins coilovers

You're lucky. I got defected for height a week ago and they gave me a major so I needed RWC.

You would be looking at roughly $100 in labour to adjust suspension and then you should also consider a wheel alignment.

Do you know how much lower than legal it was? If it's not much you could get the mechanic to tuck the exhaust up a bit (by far the lowest point on mine when I got defected a few months back), bigger tyres will also help obviously if you're able to borrow them from somewhere.

If they look at the tyre placard then you won't pass with high profile tyres etc.

Sometimes they might, sometimes they might not.

Well hopefully they don't check. And Ric, the exhaust is the lowest point but it's low by quite abit exhaust tuck won't do much I reckon even though it's the lowest point

You can ask the suspension place to put some rubber spacers in. This may get you out of trouble and take care of some of the sag in the springs which occur over time.

Attending to the exhaust and raising it up slightly is a good idea.

Hrmm that sucks drove all the way to my house to borrow a C-spanner for nothing.

Not sure what you can do James because looking at your car your exhaust was very low

Either stock exhaust or stock suspension are my only ideas :(

the make it not hang so low? or if you want to get fancy they'll custom make the piping to go above shit, my one they made the hangers shorter i believe..

probably helped that i know them hence paying $50 but eh its really not that hard like your implying

Hmmm interesting.

Custom making piping is pretty expensive (definitely not $50), but I get where you are going with re making the hangars. That would cost your quoted $50, so you are spot on. Getting the hangers changed would work pretty well, so it's a good suggestion. :thumbsup:

exhaust tuck will 100% solve your problems you can get it basically flush against the under body costs fk all to tuck an exhaust

Flush under the body is going to melt $hit! you need at least 25mm (the requirement). Stainless sheet with air gaps are your friend.

I'm not implying it's hard. Hell, I made the whole stainless system on my 1600 including the dump (took me 4 days just for the dump mind you because I made it from scratch, but did get the flanges laser cut...)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
×
×
  • Create New...