Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i've been done for oil breather, their explanation was that

"the fumes from the breather can cause your engine bay to catch on fire and your insurance wont cover you"

sounds reasonable i suppose but f*k what their reason is... at the end of the day its the law and they don't need a reason

I thought i would post my EPA thing in here

I got a letter in the mail about 4 weeks ago for me to do a EPA test. the location of the EPA letter was strange as it was on the other side of town EG i was in Chelsea and the so called location was Malvern? (spelling?) and the time was the same time i was stuck on the side of the road waiting for a tow truck

the EPA has said i still must go get a test by the due date i have sent them a letter saying my car is in a work shop with engine out car in for repairs phone numbers of the witnesses on the day i was so called in another place so the police tow truck company mate and a guy who was also on the side of the road with me waiting for a tow truck

(btw car was in accident hit a rock smashed wheel and strut and control arm) you get the idea

i have also sent them the contact of the panel shop who is fixing up the front bar (rock hitting it) and the suspension company working on the rest and also the mechanics who have removed the engine just to make sure nothing else is wrong also the insurance company and claim number, they have now just advised me that I still must take it to get tested and I got only another two weeks to do this test yet insurance company has told me another 4 weeks until my car is ready (total 8 weeks don’t ask why so long as I have sent them a letter and complaints why)

and if I do not I will be taken to court and can be fined and cars rego will be suspended can they do this do I have a chance if I take it to court? With all the witnesses I have and so on

what can I do? As I do not want to go to court but yet I can not take it to get checked at the moment

Thanks and sorry about lake of full stops

Hi guys

I just received an EPA notice requiring me to go get my exhaust tested due to excessive noise.

Think i got it courtesy of a cop who pulled me over last week.

the exhuast in question is a HKS super dragger which is already installed on the vehicle when it was purchased from a car dealer.

if the exhaust is not road legal, how can my vehicle passed the RWC in the1st place?

Im worried that i have to spend loads of money in order for my vehicle to pass the test.

Anyone faulted for similar problems? Any with advice on how to past this test?

Thank you for your help

Hi guys

I just received an EPA notice requiring me to go get my exhaust tested due to excessive noise.

Think i got it courtesy of a cop who pulled me over last week.

the exhuast in question is a HKS super dragger which is already installed on the vehicle when it was purchased from a car dealer.

if the exhaust is not road legal, how can my vehicle passed the RWC in the1st place?

Im worried that i have to spend loads of money in order for my vehicle to pass the test.

Anyone faulted for similar problems? Any with advice on how to past this test?

Thank you for your help

Simple, go to an exhaust place as listed on the EPA notice. They will test, and can advise from there on what you need.

There is a good place i have been to before, if you want the name, PM me.

Your car could still have passed RWC, don't get hung up on that point. The exhaust shop is your friend in this case.

Cheers and good luck!

Dan

:nyaanyaa:

Hi guys

I just received an EPA notice requiring me to go get my exhaust tested due to excessive noise.

Think i got it courtesy of a cop who pulled me over last week.

the exhuast in question is a HKS super dragger which is already installed on the vehicle when it was purchased from a car dealer.

if the exhaust is not road legal, how can my vehicle passed the RWC in the1st place?

Im worried that i have to spend loads of money in order for my vehicle to pass the test.

Anyone faulted for similar problems? Any with advice on how to past this test?

Thank you for your help

EPA & VicRoads = not the same.

What makes one happy, doesnt mean the other is happy with.

You will need to have the exhaust modified to pass emissions/noise testing

Hi guys thanks for the advise...

took the cheapest way out...did a stock muffler swap..and guess wat...i just passed the test..90db...

was told norm for R33 stock muffers arnd 80-85...

EPA & VicRoads = not the same.

What makes one happy, doesnt mean the other is happy with.

You will need to have the exhaust modified to pass emissions/noise testing

  • 3 weeks later...

Please excuse my ignorance. I have read this entire thread but one thing I'm unsure on.

If I have a Trust exhaust and it came with a silencer that is designed to be bolted in. Can this be used in anyway ie; bolted or temp welded in to 'quieten' things down for a test or will I need to do something different like stock replacement or exhaust shop replacement?

Thanks Ash.

I guess I'll have to explore other options then!

Any ideas on how much it would cost to have the original exhaust fitted? For those that have done it!? I would assume this sort of thing requires a car hoist?

I'm looking at selling the car anyway and will probably sell the exhaust seperately...

Really depends on who is doing the work and what not.

And if your replacing from cat-back or the full exhaust (dump). Cat back can be done quite easily in your own driveway and takes 15-20mins or so.

Got an interesting question.

Is there a way to buy a defected car from SA(too modified to return to standard) and RWC/Register it in Vic? Can I fill out a Vic transfer, get a Vic bodgy RWC and do it that way? Do the SA and VIC systems talk?

Anyone tried something like this?

B

Got an interesting question.

Is there a way to buy a defected car from SA(too modified to return to standard) and RWC/Register it in Vic? Can I fill out a Vic transfer, get a Vic bodgy RWC and do it that way? Do the SA and VIC systems talk?

Anyone tried something like this?

B

Lots of people, silly people, have tried. You risk the RWC licence of the person doing the 'bodgy' RWC and you put yourself at risk too. Not a smart move. At all.

I really think that you should re-think this approach.

My opinion.

Cheers,

Dan :pwned:

No-one will give you a dodgy RWC for something like that.

Simply because VicRoads as part of registration will require to SEE the car in person.

So they will easily know the RWC has been dodged, operator looses thier license and you are stuck with a car you cant rego.

Dodgy RWC are so hard to get these days, and rightly so

hey guys, i have to do the epa test thing. i will take all my mods off and go back to stock BUT, im wondering do they drive your car when they test it? i have shimmed the diff so its alot like a locked diff and it was a big job to do so i really dont want to have to fix that. it churps when you turn a corner at slow speeds so they will notice it for sure if they drive it, also if i have to do a u'e or something in front of them lol. thanx for any info

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
    • On the bright side, the weather will turn much nicer for working outside shortly....sounds like you might need to start on a neighbour's garden next
    • Ok so i will NEED to have this sensor anyway even with Nistune (or standalone ECU) https://justjap.com/products/genuine-nissan-boost-pressure-sensor-evap-control-system-fits-nissan-r34-skyline-c34-nm35-stagea-pnt30-x-trail-rb25det-vq25det-sr20vet?currency=AUD&srsltid=AfmBOoqfxX48bW9bEwH62orcNhtBfp7ekAL0C9Ca89ySFGUiBzXfXeze Is this the correct one? And this is only thing i need? No other "things" connected to the sensor or something? I do have the wiring.
×
×
  • Create New...