Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am chasing a split front / dump pipe for a 33 GTS-t :) , which i have found a few but don't know which one to go for or what to look for when it come's to these.

The 3 that i have found are:

BOS Importing - $420 http://bosimporting.com.au/components/com_...d98e35fd871.jpg

AM Performance (ebay) - $360

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...bayphotohosting

Just Jap - $269

http://www.justjap.com/parts/new/exhaust/jjrsplitdumprb.jpg

I'm sorts leaning towars the AM or BOS one's as i have heard some not so nice stories about the Just Jap one.

Opinions and info would be great.

Same situation with hiflow cats as well.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/159667-split-front-dump-pipe/
Share on other sites

I have the BOS Importing one. I think the design is very good. The construction (ie some of the welding / finishing) of it leaves a bit to be desired though, but nothing that would affect performance adversely.

i was in the same position not too long ago, after reading a few comments i decided to go with the BOS importing one, as i didnt have enough money to get it professionally installed i decided to give it a go my self, everything lined up 100% with no problems at all :(, the overall construction/welds on the split dump pipe was awsum and made a huge difference to my car, best mod iv bought yet ;)

I bought one of the JJR Stainless version for my R32 and the quality of the finish and welding is excellent.

Just Jap also guarantees the fit and warrants the product for 12 months.

Compared to the quality of the BOS versions that people posted in the thread recently, the JJR ones are MUCH better.

Check this thread for a good snapshot into peoples experiences with both the JJR and the BOS version

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=157267

My 2 cents.

I don't like the wastegate merge point on the JJ or AM ones.

Bos importing looks fine. The CES dump pipe is also good BUT has a poor placement of the o2 sensor as the o2 sensors must be positioned upright.

been running full ces system for 2 years & had no dramas[good performance gains]

been running full ces system for 2 years & had no dramas[good performance gains]

The CES is a top quality design according to their pics on the web site.

Does yours have the o2 sensor mounted upside down?

Apparently its a big no no for o2 sensors as water sits in them when upside down. I can't remember the exact specs but its supposed to be something like no more than 25-30degree's angle from upright.

Any fuel consumption problems? Getting more than 12-13L/100km's?

Sorry to high-jack your thread uras 33.

Is anyone using the 3" bellmouth style dump/front pipe from UAS?? if so what are your opinions on it, i am thinking of getting one very soon.

http://uniqueautosports.com/

newskyengdump.jpg

Definantely DONT go the CES. The wastegate pipe isn't even mandrel bent, it's crush bent. Looks all nice & shiny, but an engineering cockup from start to finish with the O2 sensor issue.

From memory, Bosch specifies that the sensor should be mounted above horizontal so that the section of piping it's on does not collect/drain water.

I do actually have a BOS dump, but got screwed over when he changed supplier. I had my cat back system custom made to fit on the dump I got from him only to have that crack. He sent me a replacement, but didn't fit the same & the exhaust sat twisted & at a different angle (not a good look with twin pipe). I've had a dodgy job done to get the new one to fit to my cat back. When I did some checks it turned out that the first dump had been set up wrong when compared to the original & the new one was correct. So I've spent $1400 on a stainless steel cat back exhaust system only to have to spend more money on it to make it fit right. Money I shouldn't have to spend, but since I sent the first one back I've heard shit. Before that he was talking about helping me out. Very pissed off.

I can say that the new type one does make good power (as you have seen before cubes), but I'm a bit wary of the quality of fitment.

Edited by JazzaR33

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok thanks..that was my second question if i can somehow bypass this even with Nistune(that is all i have right now...aparat from stock ECU. So with some aftemarket it can by "bypassed" or make it work?  I know there is Link or Haltech (mainly used). We have ECUmaster here so i will gather some info about it.
    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
×
×
  • Create New...