Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone , I have been looking around on ebay and finding all these Cheap Turbo and manifold upgrade kits for RB25 ," all you ever need for only $899 will make 250kwatw blah blah blah "

The photos look nice and the amount of crap they write up un the product sure is impressive.

But are they any good????

If you have bought one of these set-ups and tried it , please reply It would be good to hear what type of results you got and do they last??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/160163-cheap-ebay-turbos/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Do they last - I dunno.

Turbos are pretty primative hunks of things. There is not a lot to it. Keep in mind, that the fact that these turbos are cheap does not mean they're bad.

I perosnally have used one, and i'd trust the quality over a highflow.

Keep in mind, these are a new turbo. They are mass produced by a machine. Whereas, a highflow is something produced by a person - there can be inconsistencies.

im going to go and have a stab in the dark here.. but i think these turbos fail because of the oil feed to them. they are usually huge turbos and most will run standard size lines to them. with something like a 6mm oil feed line they might actually work.

but im with the highflow idea for sure.

We have had countless numbers of XY turbo's, and other Ebay turbo's that are all popping up that have big manufacturing problems.

Pitting in the shaft, Poor castings so bad that they break off from the cartridge, Some dont seem to have even been balanced, Compressor wheels that have enough meat cut out of the back you can fit your pinky finger in them just to that they are close to being balanced, Compressor wheels that have dissapeared into the intercooler and STEEL turbines that have been sheered off and ended up burried in the cat.

Manwhore mentioned differences with highflows.

We use 2 Heinz VSR's to balance all of our items.

First the compressor wheel and turbine wheel are balanced in the first unit and the second unit is for balancing cartridge assemblies.

All of our highflows are machined to the exact specification of the previous without fail.

Laser depth guages are very good peices of equipment. :P

The failure results of ebay turbo's are amazing, some of the pictures are very impressive.

im going to go and have a stab in the dark here.. but i think these turbos fail because of the oil feed to them. they are usually huge turbos and most will run standard size lines to them. with something like a 6mm oil feed line they might actually work.

Thats what I was thinking, they all use plain bearings because they're cheap but still do the job. Shit hits the fan with any turbo that doesn't have a proper oil supply.

Who's going to be the first to vouch for one them? :D

the question was why dont home brand bakes beans make your farts stink and why does it take a few seconds the shitty taste to come in.

hummm BAKED BEANSS<<<,,,,, hours of fun.

sorry what was the question????

i notived this morning, that justjap are selling their own turbos now as JJR (just jap racing) but aren't offering any warrany on it. check out their ebay site. i wonder whether they have sourced these ebay style turbos or are offering a cheap highflow option?

http://stores.ebay.com.au/Just-Jap-Auto-Im...8QQftidZ2QQtZkm

i notived this morning, that justjap are selling their own turbos now as JJR (just jap racing) but aren't offering any warrany on it. check out their ebay site. i wonder whether they have sourced these ebay style turbos or are offering a cheap highflow option?

http://stores.ebay.com.au/Just-Jap-Auto-Im...8QQftidZ2QQtZkm

I noticed that their turbos use the exact same plastic caps as the chinese turbos

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/T3-Turbo-Suit-Nissa...1QQcmdZViewItem

Judging by the numbers, they look like re badged KKR's. Come to think of it... where are KKR's made?

They have a rep of being cheap and nasty but they still work. There a sort of 'mid range' product by ebay standards.

'low end' would be OMG 500hp FOR YOUR VL FULLSICK bound to explode products.

'mid range' would be KKR's and equivalents

high end would be your garrets, HKS etc.

The problem is telling low from mid range products... which ebay is notoriously shit for

hmm, maybe you should message some of the people who have won those ebay turbos. You can go through the sellers history and pm the buyer of whatever item. Just find one that got a turbo and ask their opinions.

You'd probably be better off asking someone who got one a couple months ago though.

From what I have read there is an awful lot of people giving bad reports on these turbos but it is very hard to find someone who is happy with them.

I suggest getting one of slides highflows- seems to be the best bang for buck if you're on a tight budget.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
    • Lock me in mate, although I'm not sure if I'll be heading up from Goulburn or down from Sydney, either way, return will be back to Goulburn 
×
×
  • Create New...