Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The Stoptech are pretty $$$$ from what i have seen from their pricing. I have a big test of Prodrive (Alcon) vs Brembo vs Stoptech brakes. They seem to be ok. They look like re-engineered F40/50 calipers...but hey, whatever works.

GTR drivers are scared of corners so need brakes to slow down, lift up their skirt, turn the corner then plant their cavemen like right foot on the loud pedal to GO, GO, GO! :(

  • Replies 98
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Well from my last few enquires:

Stoptech 332*32 hatted rotors + ST40 calipers + braided lines + pads = $2280US approx $2850 Aust. Delivered. Note this is ex US, I haven't got a price from the local distributor as they need to email the States.

Alcon 335*28 hatted rotor + 4 pot caliper + lines + pads+fluid + $3808+gst+freight ex PWR direct.

AP Racing CP5200 + 330x32 hatted rotors + lines & pads = $3200 + freight. EX Racebrakes (pick one)

The endless stuff (6 pot on R33 hatted 324 rotors) is listed as Y436,590 plus freight. Ex Greenline.

So they appear to be reasonably priced to me.

Oh, and Roy, I have delicate little feet. Like a ballerina.

ill have to check ours, but our alcons run with 355mm rotors(have to double check) and we only run 17" rims...big 4spots up front and smaller 4 spots at the back. The whole package with a set of pads was well under 10k also. We were opting for the 6 spotters up front, but apart from better pad life and more even wear the bloke at sbc reckons the difference in braking performance is negligible. So he talked us into just the 4spots.

Edited by r33_racer

Well I am going out to qld raceway today to watch the same gtr that blew everything in to the weeds at gatton last week.

Try and tell these guys that the gtr has reached its use by date and i am quite sure your answer will be a sharp. Trot her out and lets see just how good your evo/rex is puppy. LOL

yeh Roy, ill have to check if they are 2 piece or mono...im thinking casted 2piece.

and for Russ's 32 gtr...definetely nutz. He said he would be out at the next sprint meet at QR...so ill def go to see him in action...plus spy mission.

on a side note...we blew our turbo at todays meet :P

yeh Roy, ill have to check if they are 2 piece or mono...im thinking casted 2piece.

and for Russ's 32 gtr...definetely nutz. He said he would be out at the next sprint meet at QR...so ill def go to see him in action...plus spy mission.

on a side note...we blew our turbo at todays meet :P

That was a tough break mike. That car is going to be something when you get the suspension sorted. I cant wait to see it again. Nice to meet you all too. Cheers from the grey haired old fart that bothered you today.

Well from my last few enquires:

Stoptech 332*32 hatted rotors + ST40 calipers + braided lines + pads = $2280US approx $2850 Aust. Delivered. Note this is ex US, I haven't got a price from the local distributor as they need to email the States.

Alcon 335*28 hatted rotor + 4 pot caliper + lines + pads+fluid + $3808+gst+freight ex PWR direct.

AP Racing CP5200 + 330x32 hatted rotors + lines & pads = $3200 + freight. EX Racebrakes (pick one)

The endless stuff (6 pot on R33 hatted 324 rotors) is listed as Y436,590 plus freight. Ex Greenline.

So they appear to be reasonably priced to me.

Oh, and Roy, I have delicate little feet. Like a ballerina.

Not considered CSC's?

Everyone I've spoken to who run these are rapped with them, and if you shop around you can get them for a very good price, similar to the stoptechs. Combine this with local support and they seem like a good thing to me. A mate runs them on his S14 and they really do feel strong.

Well I am going out to qld raceway today to watch the same gtr that blew everything in to the weeds at gatton last week.

Try and tell these guys that the gtr has reached its use by date and i am quite sure your answer will be a sharp. Trot her out and lets see just how good your evo/rex is puppy. LOL

that GTR came 1.5seconds from the track record set by derik pingle in his Lola F1. pretty damn good to stay that close to the Lola!!! it was awsome to watch tho, he was with a small team of skylines at the gatton sprints wasnt he???

CJ

http://www.bensonmotorsports.com

Hey savman, who is the local vendor for CSC? My google search turned up a bike team & a reference to LS1 forums....
Edited by sav man

gtrjason is running CSC. about 2 years ago they were on special and were good price at the time. having been in jasons car I can confirm it stops pretty bloody well. jason punts his car very hard and I haven't heard him complain of brake problems.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...