Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys im pretty new to these forums but i have just about completed this lil project that use are all doing and it is quiet easy all i did was tape of the letter and snad the plastic and paint it i happend to have some spair paint from my body kit laying around. for the bak of it i just used a stanley knife and a hand help haksaw blade to cut the bak strip out u will see there is a 400mm section in the bak of it ther eis a plastic line at ech end of it u will no wa ti mena when u see it just cut down them and along the sides and pop it out. then for the lights i just went and bought 2x 200mm red led lights from autobarn or the like and gled them to the baking that i cut out all i had to do to fit thes was slightly stager the leds so i didnt have a big gap in the lights in the middle but it looks wuit good u can tell that the 2 lights are stagered but i dnt mind then all i have ot do now is glue the bak peice bak into it and put clear over the top of my paint. i wired them into my parkers looks awsome. hope that may help anyone whith there project.

damn you are stingy with the letters you use for words all with the ech, thes et al .. saturday morning sickness is what it brought about :yes::P:)

  • Replies 166
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

yeah LED's dont blow that often...

i've ordered 2 new S1 facias... i came up with a design idea that no one has done yet... and it could possibly save people time and money... *oooooohhh secrets :P*

Please tell! :P :laughing-smiley-014:

lol sorry so wear not all perfect but u get wat i mean

Yeah I was straining my eyes a bit reading that. :):):P

Got any pics of how it turned out? Would be interesting to see.

hey well i havnt got any piks just yet but i will get there soon. i just sorted out the leds again cos it looked avergave having the leds stagered so i modified the 2 led strips and made it fit in one straight line with a lil bit of cutting and it turned out good ill get some piks up soon

That looks awesome! I've got my series 1 panel, but I don't know what to cut the back out with. I'd like to cut out a perfect strip from end to end along the back and then re-seal it. Got any ideas on how to do this neatly?

That looks awesome! I've got my series 1 panel, but I don't know what to cut the back out with. I'd like to cut out a perfect strip from end to end along the back and then re-seal it. Got any ideas on how to do this neatly?

stanley knife and patience

ok heres a hard question for you al, im not familiar with 33 2drs (ive a 4dr) or series numbers, neway i have painted the letters on my car and am wondering, on a 4dr or 2dr can u get the plastic around the letters to light up?

ok heres a hard question for you al, im not familiar with 33 2drs (ive a 4dr) or series numbers, neway i have painted the letters on my car and am wondering, on a 4dr or 2dr can u get the plastic around the letters to light up?

u painted the letters? why?

Edited by traman18

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
×
×
  • Create New...