Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yes, turn 1 at ec is the widow maker. you must have some nice balls to be sideways at 208kph! the inside wall is mighty close to the track there, and plenty of people far more talented than me have hit it... hard.

I've seen up close what it did to my friends GT3 cup car and bear in mind this car has a fully integrated cage installed at the porsche motor sport factory. it was nicely rooted and unrepairable.

  • Replies 123
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Thats only because it does.

Basically lateral acceleration increase with the square of velocity. basically acceleration = velocity squared dvided by corner radius. So if you are doing, say 160km/h (44.4 metres per second) through Suzuka 140R you get:

Acceleration = 44.4 squared/140

Acceleration = 14.1metres per second squared

Acceleration = 1.438 gees.

Same sum for 161km/h gives 1.456 gees.

Finding 1.27% more grip is a MASSIVE gain in a race car.

Which is why you need to bust your arse to do even 1kmk/h quicker through a corner than the next bloke. By the way the reason you can tell people are spanking themselves when talking about silly cornering speed is as follows.

Say we are doing 1 minute laps of a 1 mile long circuit.

This means we are doing 60mph, obviously.

If we do 61 mph the lap time reduces to 59 seconds.

So if some nugget tells you of a heroic speed through a corner you may suggest, in the words of Dave Allen: "Stop it or you'll go blind."

Ahhhh see my problem was i was pre-occupied with hanging on for dear life i couldn't get the calculator out :whistling:

hahah naa thats good to know, but i don't really follow where the figures came from what is Suzuka 140R? wheres the 140 come from

and how did you get from

Acceleration = 14.1metres per second squared

to

Acceleration = 1.438 gees.

holy shit! how you do manage to drift turn 10 at 208kph?! that is a mighty impressive effort. even a V8 SC is taking turn 1 at around 200kph and it's the fastest turn on the track.

Does the drift box tell you what your actual corner speed is? It doesnt really matter for the sake of this chat, but often wondered just how quick they are going when they are fryign 3rd and 4th gear through bends. Wheel speed has to be around the 160-180km/h, but often wondered what the actual road speed was?

At the end of the day...i woudl think that the average drift guy will be beding his car more often then the average track guy...there are hundred of pointless cases where we could discuss the pros and cons.

Best bet is to weight up your needs and what you do with your car. Its corners like turn 1 at EC and the final turn onto the straight at PI that is makign me heavily consider a CAMS/FIA approved half cage for my R32. Thats me. Others will be different. Point is next month we can come along with our questions and get the whole story and how it impacts what you can do with your car

Ahhhh see my problem was i was pre-occupied with hanging on for dear life i couldn't get the calculator out >_<

hahah naa thats good to know, but i don't really follow where the figures came from what is Suzuka 140R? wheres the 140 come from

and how did you get from

Acceleration = 14.1metres per second squared

to

Acceleration = 1.438 gees.

The 140R corner at Suzuka is a fairly famous & hairy corner that as of last year was taken flat in an F1 car - sort of destroyed the mistique really. It is named because its radius is 140 metres.

How did I get from one to the other? Well the accelration due to gravity is 9.81 metres per second squared. So if you chuck yourself off a building one second later you will be doing 9.81 metres per second, or about 35km/h. One gee is the same acceleration as that due to gravity. It is just a bit more user friendly is all.

Does the drift box tell you what your actual corner speed is? It doesnt really matter for the sake of this chat, but often wondered just how quick they are going when they are fryign 3rd and 4th gear through bends. Wheel speed has to be around the 260-280km/h, but often wondered what the actual road speed was?

At the end of the day...i woudl think that the average drift guy will be beding his car more often then the average track guy...there are hundred of pointless cases where we could discuss the pros and cons.

Best bet is to weight up your needs and what you do with your car. Its corners like turn 1 at EC and the final turn onto the straight at PI that is makign me heavily consider a CAMS/FIA approved half cage for my R32. Thats me. Others will be different. Point is next month we can come along with our questions and get the whole story and how it impacts what you can do with your car

The drift box is really just a GPS system. It works out your speed by working out the change in latitude & longitude as you drive around. Hence it is independent of wheelspeed. The downside of this is you cannot then detect wheelspin via the data log. Which limits its usefullness for people not wanting to drift.

The most common serious damage I see to cars is when they slide off the track sideways. I have seen a couple of people do this on sprint days, but oddly never seen a drift car turn turtle. It is actually quite surprising how slowly you can slide off the track sideways & still end up upside down. I think the sprint guys tend to do it more often because they are carrying more speed through the turns & particularly on corner exit - which is where some people get sideways & run out of talent to coin a phrase.

If you think about it properly a sprint car should always be going quicker than a drift car simply because it is using all of the tyre available grip whereas a drift car wont be because the driver is intent on getting wheelspin. Sliding friction < static friction. Immutable law of nature & pretty hard to argue against.

If you think about it properly a sprint car should always be going quicker than a drift car simply because it is using all of the tyre available grip whereas a drift car wont be because the driver is intent on getting wheelspin. Sliding friction < static friction. Immutable law of nature & pretty hard to argue against.

Exactly.

And your previous answer about gravity 9.8m/s makes sense now... i should of realised.

  • 3 weeks later...

Great work Troy.

The best speaker we have ever had at a meeting without a doubt.

Maybe because i was interested totally in the topics and info, but it was the best ive heard.

Thanks for organising it mate.

If the Bris doesnt organise a group buy.

Then im willing to organise it.

I would suspect after a cost approx $750 with removeable bars and stuff... That will sell people instantly.

And thats a Roadworthy cage to boot (as long as you get an engineers cert @ around $550) :sleep:

Cant beat a basic cage, installed, legalised for under $1500

The cost vs benefit... probably the best value i have ever seen :sorcerer:

Agree with Ash. Thanks heaps for organising it Troy.

Definately learnt a lot of facts about legalities, and construction of cages and so forth.

I'll definately be putting a half cage in my car now, particularly that it's pretty inexpensive, offers more protection, and is both CAMS and Vicroads compliant.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
×
×
  • Create New...