Project 24

[Roy]

I love your loyalty to this project. I am not selling my RB26 bottom end now.

[SteveL]

.. moves so smoothly compared to the other one you needed a spanner to turn the crank.

Doesn't that tell you something ??

[murrayis]

I love your loyalty to this project. I am not selling my RB26 bottom end now.

lol Thanks... its been 2 years in the making so no point giving up on it now..

Doesn't that tell you something ??

Yea I put it down to us increasing the oil clearance this time by another ½ a thou, and the fact when I tried it last time it was after It had spun a big end and a main bearing.

Anyway, I spent today doing as much as I could in the 36 degree heat! I spent a good 2 hours cleaning out the Sump and Head, I couldnt believe the size of the bits of bearing the I got out of the sump, I ended up filling it with water and putting a few welding magnets in the water to pickup all the small particls and large flakes a bearing. The head took the most time as I didnt have the tools at home to remove the valves so it flushed it slowly cleainng out all the oil and any small traces of bearing I could find... which was only 1 or 2 specks.

I installed the Sump, Oil pump, Rear Main Seal, Exhaust manifold, Turbo and the Head today. I held off with the water pump due to a couple of the bolts looking a little worse for wear I shall pickup some replacments from nissan this week.

Anyway heres a couple of picctures of where I am upto.

Edited March 1, 2009 by murrayis

[murrayis]

I have been looking over my figures for the head bolts of what I had written down a year or so ago, can somsone confirm these for me.

1. Tighten to 22 ft/lb

2. Tighten to 80 ft/lb

3. Loosen bolts completely to 0 ft/lbs

4. Tighten bolts to 22 ft/lbs

5. Turn bolts 85-90 degrees clockwise with an angle wrench, or tighten to 76-83 ft/lbs when torque wrench is used.

From looking over the nissan manual these appear to be the rb26 standard torque settings, and ARP recommeneds 109ft/lbs as the final figure is this tru for the rb20 also?

I am using ARP studs for the head.

[Swiper the Fox]

I have been looking over my figures for the head bolts of what I had written down a year or so ago, can somsone confirm these for me.

1. Tighten to 22 ft/lb

2. Tighten to 80 ft/lb

3. Loosen bolts completely to 0 ft/lbs

4. Tighten bolts to 22 ft/lbs

5. Turn bolts 85-90 degrees clockwise with an angle wrench, or tighten to 76-83 ft/lbs when torque wrench is used.

From looking over the nissan manual these appear to be the rb26 standard torque settings, and ARP recommeneds 109ft/lbs as the final figure is this tru for the rb20 also?

I am using ARP studs for the head.

85ft/lbs with moly lube will be sufficient.

[murrayis]

Thanks Paul,

If I don't have any molly lube and use 30w oil what do you think bump it upto 95ft/lbs?

[Swiper the Fox]

Thanks Paul,

If I don't have any molly lube and use 30w oil what do you think bump it upto 95ft/lbs?

do you want me to post you a tube?

[murrayis]

Thanks anyway, The head is already bolted down and studs have 30w on them. I used the last of my molly lube on the ARP rod bolts.

[Swiper the Fox]

Thanks anyway, The head is already bolted down and studs have 30w on them. I used the last of my molly lube on the ARP rod bolts.

its generally 20-30 more ft/lbs when using 30W oil for that size stud...so 109ft/lbs sounds like the right torque for 30W oil.

Edited March 1, 2009 by DiRTgarage

[murrayis]

Thanks Paul, I'll go re-torque them.

(EDIT) Done & Done

Edited March 1, 2009 by murrayis

[Swiper the Fox]

Thanks Paul, I'll go re-torque them.

(EDIT) Done & Done

sorry i didn't reply to your email Cameron...only just checked it. I suppose you dont need me to address the questions you asked in it now as your done.

[murrayis]

Paul, I ened up with 2.2 thou clearence on the mains and bigends. Does this sound about rite? previous we had it at 1.5thou

[huddy]

any updates on this? i'm missing my RB24

need updated running vids

[rodger1]

any updates on this one? will be good to see what she puts out

[murrayis]

No updates really...

The engine is sitting in my garage while I contemplate If I should do a external oil pump setup on it or just a billet pump.

The clutch is off at Jim Berry's being rebuilt so once I work out whats going on there It will be back in and running again..

Could always drysump it

Any ideas what I should do?

Edited April 3, 2009 by murrayis

[huddy]

dry sump if you've got the cashola

In my 26/30 build i think i'm going a powertune gearset for the oil pump - it's billet and looks the goods... mated with the oil restrictors, external oil drain, baffled sump, moroso oil accumulator i'm hoping the oil system should be fairly good

[murrayis]

Ha nice!

Yea I am not sure what to do...

Jim Berry just called Clutch is ready So I'll be picking that up on Monday

Got a link or info on those gearsets?

Edited April 3, 2009 by murrayis

[huddy]

there's the link - nevermind the 'rb26' i spoke to them and they can fit it to the pump you are using (for me it will be rb30)

http://www.powertune.com.au/rb26parts.html

[murrayis]

Nice, good thing I am using a Rb26 Pump then

May have to investigate that as a cheaper option. Cheers Huddy.

[murrayis]

Nothing much to update, Spent last Sunday putting the engine back in the car hat a mission it is to line the gearbox up with the engine! I wont be doing that again in the car.

Today I was planning on getting it started etc so got all the wiring done, water and oil lines hooked up radiator and starter motor in... put 7 ltrs of oil in and started to fill the radiator and my feet were getting wet! Somehow I have lost the plastic bung out of the radiator I suspect one of the dogs as picked itup as a chew toy like they have done with the silicon tubes.

So I am on the hunt to find a new/replacement bung for the ASI radiator, I have emailed ASI so hope I can get a replacement from them.