Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I previously supplied an SAU member in WA and he was very happy with those redstuff... Too bad I myself only ever tried greenstuff, never tried red. Probably I can try chuck in some red on my wife's RAV4 but a RAV4 won't be driven hard so there's not really much advantage to it...

Edit: found it, I think his user is NO_RSPECT.

thanx mate.... so far everyone ive spoken to has reccomended green or red stuff.. so guess its red stuff for me, as on the EBC website they say "For heavier faster cars and vehicles above 200bhp we strongly recommend Redstuff which DOES offer much less dust" no point me chasing green

how much should i expect to pay for red stuff?

:rofl:

Edited by Malz34

If anyone wants to know, thought i might share some info......

EBC Red Stuff price for R34 GT-T

Brembo 4 pot Calipers - $240 Front

Standard Calipers - $220 Front

and about $200 on ebay but doesnt specify which type

:)

TRW Lucas by a long shot!

:rolleyes:

Have to agree with going the TRW Lucas pads. Just had a set installed all round with new DBA 4000 series slotted rotors up front and street series slotted for the rear while also putting in Motul DOT 5.1 fluid. I was a bit skeptical at first but the stopping power for the street is far more than adequate (possibly overkill) and thats even with my Nankangs and no ABS.. I personally don't know how well they go on the track or sprints but was assured they would hold up.

perhaps a simple table should be done.

Makes Type of Cars Price Usage (street/Track) Part Number Dust Level Quality Squeking Grips Harshness on rotors ETC

First choice would be the best " Bang for your buck" and second and so forth. So this thread will be the "ulitmate" reference for SAU.

Edited by stasis
  • 2 weeks later...

I run slotted discs, RBF600 fluid and DS2500 in my FC RX7. Have only done one track day with this setup but really liked it, highly recommend the DS2500 :down: . Previously I had Bendix ultimates these handled track reasonably well I thought but pedal start to get really long towards end of session - this could have been a combination of unknown, god knows how old fluid and shitty discs though :thumbsup:

Edited by crazyboosta
Anyone tried Project Mu type NR pads? Im going to give thim a go matched with Project Mu SCR rotors.

My brother used project mu pads on his RX8. They're good pads for the circuit but heaps and heaps of brake dust. He's only had them on not even 1000km and his rims are all black...

  • 2 weeks later...

Just curious anyone used the

SEI - Brake pads Type Street Spec

Features

- Designed for Street sports driving

- Carbon Metal (Asbestos free) construction

- Rotor Temperature of 0-500 degrees Celsius

- Fiction coefficient of 0.40-0.60

And how would you rate them for between 250 and 300 rwkws for a r33 gtst. im up for a set soon and for 284 a set (front and rear) delivered im tempted and yes main use would be medium to hard street with occasional mountain work.

Cheers

A

oh and sk. yes its got all the turning corners stuff that murry coote and terry Bosnjak can offer. our test driver scott flemming was very impressed. "you can just stand on them and modulate the pedal so easily without locking up"

so yeah our test day was ok. but il have to bill my boss for using my spare pads <_<

at wakie in my whale 182rwkw.hot summer day in january.

rotors: stock.*painted red stock callipers brakes heaps harder :blink: *

pads_front:rb74 rear:bendix advance

Fluid: castrol super response.

the braking was spongy.but they were allways there for me when i needed them.though it felt as though they were going to give up and i would go shooting off the end of the track when i was really pushing them.the pedal start to get really long towards end of every session (fadeing).definantly needs a cooling mod to the rotor veins.all in all though they never let me down by complete failure it was just a matter of finding the right time to brake so the car could be pulled up in time to make the corner.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

i have advance on the front of the car atm,ditto rear,on the street and have used them at drifting days and texikhana.and they seem to be ok.though i would like them to start working there majic a bit earlier and with allot more bite sometimes.i dont really have a complaint.i wouldnt use them for a hard day at the track. :blink:

with more power though i would seriously consider a decent brake upgrade.calliper and rotor setup,before i hit the track.

  • 3 weeks later...

Adding my 2 cents to this thread...

Was running Ferodo Excels - rubbish brake pad, you might as well run none at all!

New Brake Pads are Bendix Ultimates, wow what a difference, would definately reccomend them, Not overly expensive either

FYI was running same brake fluid on both pads, Castrol .4

Using the DS2500's from Ferodo and have to say they are a GREAT pad. Got a track day coming up on Monday so hopefully they will shine on the track as well. From what I've heard, it won't be a problem :spank:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
    • Can you also make sure the invoices on the box (And none exist in the boxes) are below our import duty limits... I jest, there's nothing I need to actually purchase and order in. (Unless you can find me a rear diff carrier, brand new, for stupidly cheap, that is for a Toyota Landcruiser, HZJ105R GXL, 2000 year model...)  
×
×
  • Create New...