Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 4 weeks later...

Swapped over to HC+ for a couple of sprint days now.

Obviously you have to sell your kidneys to buy a set of these. The last few sets of A1RM

were only giving me 2 days days before backing plate. The HC+ give 5 track days till

the backing plate. They also have far more initial bite, don't cover all the rotor slots with material

and have a greater fade point.

A1RM are great for anyone doing 4-5 track days a year. If you are looking for something more I can

recommend HC+.

  • 3 weeks later...

Hi, trying to find a good pad for my 300 awkw R34 GTR (non-vspec). Standard brembo calipers, am planning to get the DBA 4000 XS (slotted/drilled) rotors all round.

It will be used 99.9% for street driving. I am looking for

1. Minimal noise (MOST IMPORTANT)

2. Minimal rotor wear

3. Cold performance

4. Minimal dust

5. Cheap

In that order.

Based on this, should I get the QFM HPX? Any alternative? 1-2 ppl have reported that they are squealy, which would be a deal-breaker for me. Not properly bedded in?

And which store sells these? I am based in Melbourne.

Oh, and when's a good time to replace pads? If it goes to the backing plate I am guessing that will be bad for the rotor. Mine are at 30% all round.

Cheers.

It will be used 99.9% for street driving. I am looking for

1. Minimal noise (MOST IMPORTANT)

2. Minimal rotor wear

3. Cold performance

4. Minimal dust

5. Cheap

In that order.

In that order I'd recommend a European performance brand called Remsa, which is what we supply to a few specialist VW/Audi/Porsche workshops. The HPX isn't a noisy pad normally, but unfortunately opposed pistons calipers (like your Brembos) are notorious for noise regardless of pad selection, and we know the Remsa's work very very well in opposed pistons calipers, like Porsche, who's drivers definitely wouldn't accept noise. The Remsa's come standard with a soft shim on the back that the QFM's do not.

Remsa to suit Brembo are $125 for the front, and $105 for the rear. Shipping is free when you order front and rear pads together, or else $8 per axle set individually.

If the order was dust, rotor wear, noise, then I'd recommend HPX, but if your emphasis is on noise, you definitely won't go wrong with the Remsa, which as a bonus are also rated to 650 degrees (100 degrees better than Bendix Ultimate or HPX).

Regards,

Greg

In that order I'd recommend a European performance brand called Remsa, which is what we supply to a few specialist VW/Audi/Porsche workshops. The HPX isn't a noisy pad normally, but unfortunately opposed pistons calipers (like your Brembos) are notorious for noise regardless of pad selection, and we know the Remsa's work very very well in opposed pistons calipers, like Porsche, who's drivers definitely wouldn't accept noise. The Remsa's come standard with a soft shim on the back that the QFM's do not.

Remsa to suit Brembo are $125 for the front, and $105 for the rear. Shipping is free when you order front and rear pads together, or else $8 per axle set individually.

If the order was dust, rotor wear, noise, then I'd recommend HPX, but if your emphasis is on noise, you definitely won't go wrong with the Remsa, which as a bonus are also rated to 650 degrees (100 degrees better than Bendix Ultimate or HPX).

Regards,

Greg

Cool, sound good. Tried to find out more info on them but on the Remsa website they don't seem to go into detail differentiating different brake pads, and couldn't find my car on their site either. Do they just make 1 level of brake pad?

Thanks.

Hi mate,

Yep, there's only one level of Remsa (unless you stumble across the US varients, in which there's a couple, but we stock the European version). Just a little bit more back ground on Remsa, they're a subsidiary of the TRW Group, and in fact they're the manufacturer of TRW (Lucas) pads, but their brand pads ARE NOT the same as TRW pads. They're miles less dusty for starters...

Any questions at all feel free to give us a bell.

Regards,

Greg

  • 1 month later...

looking for some pads to go with my new rotors, what do people recommend?

Car is daily driven, R34 GTR pretty much stock. 99% of its driving will be just daily road duties.

pads will go with my new DBA4000XS (pics attached)

post-25424-0-68952600-1295605297_thumb.jpg

post-25424-0-61256900-1295605328_thumb.jpgpost-25424-0-68186900-1295605350_thumb.jpg

post-25424-0-63660800-1295605407_thumb.jpg

Thanks in advance

Noy

  • 4 weeks later...

Finally fitted my QFM A1RM pads that I got from gslrallysport, when I removed the Bendix Ultimates they where half worn and had some cracking going on, after fitting the A1RMs and bedding them in I find they are a big improvement on the Ultimates, the only squelling I got was during the bedding in but after about 10 80kph to 20kph runs they were nice and quiet.

Inital view on them is they are much better in feel and grip on the street, Im doing Wakie on the 5th of March so will see how they go there.

Mark

  • 2 weeks later...

What Break pads would you guys recommend for a R34 GT-T not a track car street only but occasionally having a led foot :/

QFM HPX, Bendix Ultimate equivalent but low dust and rotor wear, $79 per set front or rear. A1RM would be a bit extreme if you weren't doing track work.

Hey guys looking for some pads for my R32 Gtr track car. Still running the standard sumitomos, was originally running DS2500's which I found to be very good after warming them up. However the last track day I went to the pads were shot and all I could find were bendix ultimates, which faded terribly after 4 laps. Are there any other good racing pads I could try out? Also, is there money to be saved buying pads online from the States etc.? What are some other lesser known brands that have good track performance?

I loved project mu HC+ on the standard sumis with caliper spacers. Trying out blue stuff atm, they are growing on me.

HC+ have fantastic initial bite, while the blue stuff seem to drip you through the front window later in the pedal.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
×
×
  • Create New...