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mods are

r32 nissan skyline

rb20det engine

rb25det turbo running 0.85 bar

600x300x76 intercooler + piping

pod filter

greddy bov

4 inch exhast

111kw at the wheels

took the car into beyond and the car started loosing power at 4500rpm (hitting 111kw at this point then staying at that

the air and fuel ratio was at 16 (AFR:P 16) when at 4500 rpm and climbing

i was told a new fuel pump and new fuel regulator should fix the problem and the car should see 180 - 200 kw

what is your guys thoughts?

whats the cheapest fuel pump and regulator you would recommend? if i even need to do this>?

r32's don't have R&R.

if your afr is hitting 16:1, it is extremely lean and obviously not enough fuel is going through.

they are right.

a new fuel pump will probably solve the issue.

cheap option is a WALBRO 255L/h pump (yes people will say it doesn't flow enoug blah blah blah)

but it flows plenty for the 200rwkw you want to make..

it will cost about $200 - $250

next price range is a used GTR fuel pump

price will be about $250 or more.

then there are the more expensive BOSCH pump range.

then the even more expensive NIZMO range.

Don't worry too much about regulator..

if you must, NIZMO makes a direct bolt on replacement which is under $200 I think..

Might also be a good idea to replace fuel filter ($30 or so) and get your injectors ultrasonicly cleaned (not sure on price)

to get the 180+rwkw you will need some sort of tunable ecu or piggy back.

SAFC will set you back about $250 and can bent the afr enough to give you some gains.

a re-chip is even better.

to give you an idea.

way back when I had my first r32.

i had...

rb25 turbo

11psi

gtr fuel pump

side mount arc intercooler

3 inch exhaust from turbo back.

Trust panel filter in stock air box.

no ecu tuning.

it made 155rwkw.

Edited by GTST
its just hitting r&r. an engine management or a piggy back computer with a tune will fix it.

if 16:1 afr is rich, then i'd hate to see what you call lean.

bax: as GTST said, start with a new pump (and filter just to be on the safe side). that should make a world of difference.

its just hitting r&r. an engine management or a piggy back computer with a tune will fix it.

r & r? his AFR is 16 :laughing-smiley-014:

Bax, you don't need a fuel regulator, but more likely you need a new pump. I would be worrying more about your AFR's right now than how many Kw at the wheels you are pulling as if you don't address the problems your car has you are going to be needing a new engine.

Get a confirmed diagnosis of why your AFR's are so lean before you do anything.

no couldnt see what the duty cycle , dyno didnt show that, but the guy said theres prob no point as the car wasnt recieveing enough fuel?>

im ordering a Walbro 255LPH Fuel Pump

will this do?

where does the fuel pump go in the r32 rb20det

is it easy enough to change over?

once ive changed it over do i just reset the ecu and away we go?

if 16:1 afr is rich, then i'd hate to see what you call lean.

bax: as GTST said, start with a new pump (and filter just to be on the safe side). that should make a world of difference.

oh shit!

yeah i understood that wrong, too early in the morning for me.

sorry guys. that was a major brain fart.

yes walbro pump is fine.

it goes in the tank

in the boot.

under the carpet

towards the right hand side of the spare wheel

it should be pretty easy to swap.

you might need to modify the craddle a little to hold the new pump in if it is slightly different in size.

like I said before.

replace fuel filter and as well.

if you got more cash, clean injectors.

they are rated at 500hp at 14volts

do cubes volt mod for fuel pump and itll be fine and dandy, or take it somewhere for them to make sure it runs at 14.2v or watever it is constantly.

^ walbro genuine one cost me 150 to my door.. check out kudos motosport..

Hmm who says the walbro pump doesnt flow more than 200kw??

is that a fact?

nah thats BS, i have tuned cars will walbros making 50-80rwkw more than that. Cats car (300+) for example had a walbro in it before i changed it (precaution, it was two years old) to a tomei pump.

Hi all..

I had my car dynoed on Wednesday and am experiencing a similar problem.

92 R32 GTST RB20

170000km

Pod filter

3 inch split dump, 5 inch metal cat and 3 inch cat back.

R34 GTT SM intercooler

Runs about 0.75-0.8 bar (no boost controller, standard actuator.)

I got 155.1 kW at the wheels...

but my afrs were between 12.8-13.0 all they way to red line. I'll post the dyno graph later.

The workshop cleaned my AFM but it made no difference. My fuel filter is only a few months old.

Now i know its not as catastrophically as lean as 16.0:1, but is it worth starting my problem solving with a new fuel pump?

Cheers,

Rhett

Hi all..

I had my car dynoed on Wednesday and am experiencing a similar problem.

92 R32 GTST RB20

170000km

Pod filter

3 inch split dump, 5 inch metal cat and 3 inch cat back.

R34 GTT SM intercooler

Runs about 0.75-0.8 bar (no boost controller, standard actuator.)

I got 155.1 kW at the wheels...

but my afrs were between 12.8-13.0 all they way to red line. I'll post the dyno graph later.

The workshop cleaned my AFM but it made no difference. My fuel filter is only a few months old.

Now i know its not as catastrophically as lean as 16.0:1, but is it worth starting my problem solving with a new fuel pump?

Cheers,

Rhett

yours seems to be on the money 155rwkw std turbo, the gtt coolers (better than stock) have about a 2 psi drop accross them too so the turbos have to work pretty hard accross them.

Yeah I'm really happy with the result, picked up 13kW with just the cooler, with the car holding 0.75bar (11psi) all the way through to the red line. I should get a good further increase when i raise the boost to 13psi or so..

I just want to get the fuel sorted before I finally install my other goodies - Jaycar IEBC, DFA and intercooler water spray.

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