Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 191
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

That legnum back there look ~HOT~ worked to the hilt but still hot. I looked at them before i bought my stag but the little known engine etc oh and its a bitsashiti. Whats the deal with em? has anyone been in one? are they quick? tight?

very nice drive: It was a while back, but it seemed to be very brisk. Of course, I owned a Pulsar SSS at the time, so anything with forced induction felt pretty quick. I found the plastics a bit second rate, but on the whole, it was a very impressive piece of kit. And that was when the guy was asking $22k. For the $12K - $15k you'd pay now, they are very good value for money...

Just my experience/opinion

ask "jasevr4", or "VRFOUR", they've both owned one.

i currently have a Super VR-4 on its way, due to arrive very soon!

Recaro's, carbon fibre dash, twin turbo V6 with a 5 spd tiptronic box and AYC... cant wait!

Edited by mungell

They go alright but are a nightmare to work on (no space) not much common performance parts and they are not hard to break, the interior is also a bit tacky IMO. they are however much cheaper than a manual stagea, but that may quickly be outweighed by repaires!

ask "jasevr4", or "VRFOUR", they've both owned one.

i currently have a Super VR-4 on its way, due to arrive very soon!

Recaro's, carbon fibre dash, twin turbo V6 with a 5 spd tiptronic box and AYC... cant wait!

nah I haven't owned one.. I've got an evo 7 at the moment though. was strongly considering getting one but opted for the Stagea purely just because of the aftermarket gear that was available locally. Stock for stock the Legnum has more going for it but at the end of the day it's pretty much just personal preference on what you like the look of/to work on/etc.

I loved my little NA 2L pulsar SSS

sure not as much torque or horsepower.. but more fun cause you could hold onto a gear longer and rev out more without approaching instant loss of license speeds too fast hhaha

very nice drive: It was a while back, but it seemed to be very brisk. Of course, I owned a Pulsar SSS at the time, so anything with forced induction felt pretty quick. I found the plastics a bit second rate, but on the whole, it was a very impressive piece of kit. And that was when the guy was asking $22k. For the $12K - $15k you'd pay now, they are very good value for money...

Just my experience/opinion

  • 3 weeks later...

134c_1.jpg

13e5_1.jpg

12fa_1.jpg

Perhaps it's better described as a "shooting brake." Whatevs, the lines of the Porsche 944 lend themselves shockingly well to wagonization. Our Dutch is nonexistent, but from what we can gather, this 1981 944 Turbo could be yours if you've got 25,000 Euros kicking around. Shipping it over to the US from Genk would assuredly feel longer and more agonizing than what a five-year old experiences watching the second hand march around the clock on December 24th. The condition is said to be showroom perfect, and indeed, even the seats look far less beaten than what we routinely see lurking inside 1980s Porsches offered on eBay. There's about 175 horsepower on tap from the 2-liter four cylinder, so while it looks much faster, hot rodded Volvo 240 Turbos might be showing you their taillights.

This is the perfect Porsche for the folks with kids who don't want to join the lemmings in the Cayenne. Roughly 30 grand doesn't buy you a ton of exclusivity, either, but this Porsche Estate will definitely shut the mouths of those that feel the need to keep up with the Joneses. If you play around with the turbo boost settings, they'll have a tough time keeping up with you, too.

  • 2 weeks later...

doesn't the L series have a MASSIVE hump at the front of the rocker cover for the cam wheel?

well, the L20 in my last 2 bluebirds did :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
    • I have more than enough digging, laying blocks, moving gravel, airrating, feeding and top soiling the grass, and setting up the veggie gardens growing some seedlings,  and then removing all the unused rock to keep me busy for the next few months at least,  hopefully the rain stops soon so I can get a few hours in this arvo, but, before that Sunday is washing day, is every body happy, you bet your life we are Nice country road day drives are a day off whenever I'm muscle sore from all the landscaping at the moment, but, more epic multiple day drives will start once the majority of the big jobs outside are completed
    • I hear that would involve some nice country road drives into the hills for Mark...
    • I thought I'd come back and add something I JUST learned. A Toyota LandCruiser with a 1HZ, mates perfectly with a bottle of Nulon brake fluid. As in, it perfectly screws in. Great make shift funnel when you cut the bottom of it off. This may work for your Corolla.   Unfortunately, tipping a 10L drum is much harder than a 4 to 6L bottle, and they no longer include the easy pour tap which was just perfection to use previously.  
    • Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
×
×
  • Create New...