Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Heres a email i got back from motec qld recently.

The prices you requested:

M48 Clubman $2099.00

M48 Pro $2536.59

We do not quote trade prices via email - we would require a trade order on

letterhead.

I think these prices are pretty good, considering i can sell my profec2 and z32 for say 300 and get maybe and extra 100 off for trade price. That would see the clubman down to $1700.

I wouldnt be paying for installation so the only extra money i would be looking at is for a tune. Surely there is someone in qld who can tune it for alot less than the cost of the ecu let alone what roy is talking?

i'd love to have an autronic in my gtr, but i'll settle with the fcon v i have.

i still dont see why your going to bother with a power fc, motec. etc etc when you have this autronic in your car and the smc is perfect.

they are definatley not a hard compuiter to tune. so perhaps you just need to find someone worthy of doing it

Angus u are spot on mate, i know the Autronics is a good ecu i just cant find any decent tuners around to do it, i have forked out alot of $$$ for the smc, cdi, boost solenoid and coils to go swapping to something else. I have had people saying the Autronics are known for causing missfire issues and melting pistons, but i cant see this is true with soo many big power cars running them without dramas.

2630gts thanks for the prices, its not a big cost its the cdi and stuff that add up plus rewiring it is a pain (though i would do it myself).

decisions decisions :)

dont forget JEM in sydney.

adam has tuned some very powerful cars including brett's (forum handle and plates: BU5TER) who made 440-ish kw on pump. you might want to pm him and ask if he'd go back. at least you'll have a 1st hand response.

Angus u are spot on mate, i know the Autronics is a good ecu i just cant find any decent tuners around to do it, i have forked out alot of $$$ for the smc, cdi, boost solenoid and coils to go swapping to something else. I have had people saying the Autronics are known for causing missfire issues and melting pistons, but i cant see this is true with soo many big power cars running them without dramas.

2630gts thanks for the prices, its not a big cost its the cdi and stuff that add up plus rewiring it is a pain (though i would do it myself).

decisions decisions :)

The only reason thet an autronic would be known for causing missfiring is because people dont hook up the ignition outputs correctly(they are a pain in the rse)Ive only once heard of an autronic causing a blown engine, and i used to fit them for a few years. The blown engine was mine, and i had a $50 autronic that was out of a burnt car, which worked perfectly except it had a damaged internal socket which caused it to go spaco at 4000rpm

talk to Brett West about tuning your current ecu, they were (last time I had my Stagea tuned there) the autronic dealer and were pushing me in that direction, lack of funds made my decision rather easy ! >_<

APE (Adelaide Performance Engineers)

A division of Graham West Workshops Pty Ltd

668 Marion Road Park Holme

South Australia 5043

Phone 08 8277 5688 Fax 08 8374 3431 Email [email protected]

Something that nobody has mentioned. 99% of the time the best place to tune your engine is the people who built it. Or should i say you should get whoever is going to tune your engine to build it.

That way there can be no finger pointing. Not that you shoudl if things go bang. But if the bad engine builder is makign the tuners look bad, or vice versa...then how are you to know which party got it wrong. You could be walkign away from a great tuner only to get the same bad engine builder to do you over again.

Also, i suspect the tuner does a better job when he knows what is in the engine...gets a better feel for how hard it can be pushed etc

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...