Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Mate i was in the same shoes you are in about a month ago and it pretty much came down to either a HKS GT-RS or a GCG Highflow. Both will easily get you into the 12s and take your engine internals to their limit without going a forged rebuild. To get the most out of these turbos you will need an aftermarket ECU, Z32, fuel pump, 555cc (or 700cc if you really wanna push the turbos to the limit) and all the other stuff that you allready have.

On a fairly decent amount of boost you can get these turbos up to 250-260 @ the wheels and will both be very responsive. If you decide to go the extra step and take your head off, drop in a set of cams, head gasket and maybe bigger valves you can get 300 @ the wheels on a GT-RS (Not sure on the GCG as i havn't personally seen one pushed that far). However this will take the turbo to its absolute limit and your engine will most likely go bang.

So its up to you, both these turbos will get you what you want and will give you heap of head room for further mods.

Personally i went the GT-RS because it was only a little bit dearer than a GCG (approximately $1900 compared to about $2500). However the GT-RS comes with full braided lines, an adjustable actuator and hell, your getting a HKS turbo. So to me it was an easy choice.

Hope that helps you a bit man, good luck with your choice.

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

umm a 2540 is just a touch bigger than a 2535 and smaller than a 2835 and GTRS, so how would it be a lag monster??

The 2540 is a poor match of compressor/turbine wheels.

They basically make around the same power as a 2530 (a poofteenth more to be technical), but with a noticeable amount of extra lag.

So the extra top end power IMO is poorly offset by the much increased lag.

Its just a shocking turbo match, and as many have found of over the years, there are far more evenly matched turbos for the money out there on the market.

from personal experience with the gcg hi flow i'd recommend them for sure, mine had a single turbo vg30 ex housing on the arse of it for abit more breathing...awesome turbo, regretting selling it, on my engine it made 258kw@15psi.. great bang for buck i reckon

sweetr33 i was told these were a little laggy, cause i am considering following this path.

watching this thread closely casue i am in the same boat

depends wat your view on laggy is.... it didnt come on boost as quick as stock turbo but once it did there was no comparison....there a little power house the hiflow with vg30 rear...you wouldnt be disappointed at all if u chose this option i can assure u

  • 2 weeks later...

if you go for the nismo 555cc injectors, they are worth around $700 delivered from perfectrun.com.au for an RB25DET

this is the cheapest i've seen anywhere so far, i've seen people selling 2nd hand ones trying to palm them off for this much

Apexi ones are now hard to get, and HKS ones apparently are harder too, according to greenline

Just go for the nismo, no one i know that has them has had any issues, so its win-win

Good luck with your build dude!

shit, 2500 for a hks gtrs

danngg where are these ppl pulling all this cash outta

man 2.5 g's for the turbo

labour, = 400 est

nismo injectors = 700-800

200 labour for that

tune = 500 bucks power fc ( can cost more )

additional bumps = 300

= 4700.00

gcg hi flow = 2nd hand 1200-1400

s15 injectors = 360.00 for 6

install = 400 est

injector install = 200

tune = 500 ( can cost more )

additional 300

= 3160

rough estimates

the additionals are for minor shit like sparkies, fuel, just shit that tuners add

man seriously i'd just wait till somebody sells a gcg hi flow and see what previous sells are etc

buy that

saving up to 1.5 grand is heaps if ur just hitting 250rwkw!!!

remember who cares about MINOR lag , cause ur realli gonna pay that 1.5 g for an extra few hundred rpm spool max??

install = 400 est (should be ZERO, check the DIY threads)

injector install = 200 (again, should be ZERO for the same reason)

Alot of peeps can do this themselves, and even those who can't......well, they probably can, just don't know it yet :(

oho even better at getting my point across.

for the diy's

sums up to 4100.00 for the hks

and 2560.00 for a gcg installed and tuned now hows that for a 250rwkw skyline for 2.5 g's

not a bad bang for your buck i reckon if thats ur aim

:D

Edited by Zas)-(
Ye, and if the turbo had bad treatment in a past life then your up for $4500 once you remove/refit and purchase a new one.

Sometimes cheap is not the way.

ohh you wanna use the term IF AYE

but IF it hasnt had bad treatment then you've saved yourself over 1.5grand..its a gcg not an ebay turbo mate

Yeah, but thats not to say the motor it came off had "average" oil pressure.

How do you know? You dont. Its a gamble, so "IF" plays quite a big part in a gamble, being its often luck of the draw.

Without pulling it down, chucking a rebuild kit through it, your just taking a gamble for the sake of saving what, $300?

Hardly viable when the rebuild costs you more than what you paid for the turbo.

You'd be thinking to yourself you'd be better off going with ebay turbos in that scenario.

I've met countless people over the years who have attained something second hand only to have it fail.

I once was a second hand man also, but once you get stung once and it costs you double, it soon changes your thinking

Good point.

Been stung with a dud Z32 and i wouldn't even buy a replacement from Australia after that :D

Got one delivered from Japan.

Although, currently have a 2nd hand HKS 2535 which seems to be OK so far, fingers crossed.

If it fails (well i guess it will eventually), prolly go the new GTRS as i'll already have all the supporting mods :D

ohhoooo u dont save 300 bucks

you save upto 800dollars or even 600 for some gcgs i've seen ...

, and there many 2nd sellers that arent going to sell you crap? ?? ???? :)

oil pressure wtf? COMEONNNNN your pretty much going to kill the good traders who are selling good 2nd hand gear, that have good selling records

oil pressure....

lol

:thumbsup:

Edited by Zas)-(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
×
×
  • Create New...