Jump to content
SAU Community

Blow Off Valve Is Causing Car To Stall!

blitz r33
 Share

Recommended Posts

blitz r33 Collaborator

blitz r33

Posted
Posted

i have bought a turbosmart type2 veeport bov and installed it on my skyline.

now my car keeps stalling and ive followed the instruction and tightened the spring but it still stalls,we have checked over it and theres no leaks,no blockages and no collapsed or twisted hose.

i got the spring as tight as it could go and it still stalled so i ended up taking it off and put the factory part back on and it runs perfect and doesnt stall and now i have wasted $400 on the adapter and bov.

im confused to why it stalls,hope yous can help me out.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

The car is overfuelling due to the ATMO BOV.

The car expects the re-circ BOV to be there, its tuned for it.

Hence when you put it back it works fine.

So you have two choices.

Get a ECU & tune it ($1500)

Or go back to the stock one... which is is how Nissan intended it to be :D

Nothing wrong with the stock BOV so not really sure why you would want to change it anyhow.

blitz r33 Collaborator

blitz r33

Posted
  • Author
Posted
The car is overfuelling due to the ATMO BOV.

The car expects the re-circ BOV to be there, its tuned for it.

Hence when you put it back it works fine.

So you have two choices.

Get a ECU & tune it ($1500)

Or go back to the stock one... which is is how Nissan intended it to be :D

Nothing wrong with the stock BOV so not really sure why you would want to change it anyhow.

thanks for the info.

punisher6942 Rising Star

punisher6942

Posted
Posted

im having the same problem with my turbosmart BOV but i have set it up so its set to recirc and its still stalling i have no idea whats goin on with it and im looking at being in the same boat as blitz becuz im gunna have to put the stocker back on or get an aftermarket ecu and tune (better start saving lol)

Luciano Veteran

Luciano

Posted
Posted

installing a HKS Fuel Cut Defender should override this problem? i think.

i experienced the same with my Blitz. I didnt mind the stalling every now and then, but i removed it to avoid the boys in blue.

The stock one does its job well enough!

ssshonky Grand Master

ssshonky

Posted
Posted

as previously mentioned.. maybe investigate if you can adapt that BOV back to a plumb back .

also vac leaks can be quite hard to track down .. make sure you look for cracks at the places where other pipes join the inlet ( if there are any )

to be honest I was really impressed by the stock recirc valve on the rb25det NEO .. looked very well made! and at least if you have a recirc BOV the boys in blue have got one less thing to bend you over for !

and if you have a pod you should still hear the BOV noise.

ive heard alot of specualtion, but how much boost can a standard r32 gtst bov handle?

has anyone had a problem running 17-18 psi thru one?

im ready to put my stocka back on and see if it helps with the stalling..

adam-__- Grand Master

adam-__-

Posted
Posted
ive heard alot of specualtion, but how much boost can a standard r32 gtst bov handle?

has anyone had a problem running 17-18 psi thru one?

im ready to put my stocka back on and see if it helps with the stalling..

From what I've read on SAU, the standard 32 gtst bov can handle about 14psi before it starts to leak if I remember correctly. If you want to run the standard plumb back system, I think you can just get the GTR's bov and put it in its place. They handle up to about 20-ish psi.

Feel free to correct me.

R33silverS2 Mentor

R33silverS2

Posted
Posted

Its wierd mine has worked fine on the car and it has never stalled. Might change it back just cos it gets annoying sometimes. Did you make sure you used the gasket between the bov and the intake pipe?

  • 8 months later...
  • 16 years later...
silviaz Experienced

silviaz

Posted
Posted

My tuner told me this as well that the reason the car will stall is because it has a AFM system, he said it I want to do it properly I need to delete that system, he said I can try it though to see how it goes. My BOV recirculates btw (can hear flutter sometimes though), how do s15's and stuff not stall and they also have the AFM system? I was considering blocking it off for ovbious reasons but was hesistant because of the above.

silviaz Experienced

silviaz

Posted
Posted (edited)
1 minute ago, GTSBoy said:

By changing to a Halaltech and not having an AFM, typically. Or, they stall or otherwise carry on.

A lot of them are driven by p platers with stock ecu's lol. When does the stalling usually happen is it high speeds?

Edited by silviaz
joshuaho96 Veteran

joshuaho96

Posted
Posted
On 10/31/2024 at 10:12 AM, silviaz said:

My tuner told me this as well that the reason the car will stall is because it has a AFM system, he said it I want to do it properly I need to delete that system, he said I can try it though to see how it goes. My BOV recirculates btw (can hear flutter sometimes though), how do s15's and stuff not stall and they also have the AFM system? I was considering blocking it off for ovbious reasons but was hesistant because of the above.

If you block off the BOV entirely you will get reversion out of the MAF and get a lean spike instead of a rich spike as the MAF double-counts the airflow.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • PranK
      Rusty roof repair

      By PranK · Posted

      So, I started this repair and got as far as "fixing" the holes with some fibreglass. God all those years working on boats came back quickly. I decided I'd reach out to some rust guys just to see what they would say about it. I came across a guy about 40 mins away and went to see him. He said the windscreen needs to come out, that there might be some more bits around the windscreen and he'd quote them at the time. But his quote was $300 to remove and replace windscreen and $3k for the damage he can see. He said he could respray the roof for $1200 and the bonnet for another $800 (somebody has previously rattle canned it, its horrendous). This is $5300 + any small additional bits. It's a lot, I get that and the name of one of my fave youtube channels 'Not Economically Viable' comes to mind.  I'm not being financially rational, but I've taken him up on the quote. He's opening a new shop in November with more room, so we're waiting for that. I'll leave the currently missing headliner out until then. I'm looking forward to it being fixed and having the paint looking nice again (lots of clear coat issues on the roof too). / flame suit on.
    • PranK
      My BMW 335i

      By PranK · Posted

      Oh and some up-and-comings; New rear drivers wheel bearing. I'll do that this weekend while the diff is out. The car is already up and the d/c axles and missing exhaust will help with space. This is the last bearing for me to do and I've been dragging my feet on it. I also have some new EBC blue stuff pads for the car and some new brake fluid. I haven't ever flushed the fluid in this car and looking forward to it. I have 600 degree fluid to put in. Not exactly "race fluid" but better than the typical stuff I have been using.
    • GTSBoy
      My BMW 335i

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      A proper clutch/plate type mechanical diff with quite a lot of pre-load and high locking % is better for drifting. Much more consistent in its behaviour. A helical can be annoyingly vague and inconsistent in how it responds under the sorts of abuse found in drifting.
    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      Some updates here. I pulled the entire interior out, minus some trim to respray the seats with Colourlock dye. It turned out really nice though I accidentally let the dog in the car after and she scratched up the front seat.  This is what it looked like before, the colour was just washing out everywhere but thankfully the leather was in good nic. Then after the respray   And after the bloody dog jumped in The headliner is out waiting to be retrimmed, but it will stay out now until Nov - see why below. I replaced the stereo/headunit with a period-styled Android headunit. I have no after pics, but I'll get some. This is because of the missing pixels. I tried to fix this twice with replacement ribbon cables but couldn't. Also the bluetooth interface I'd bought for this was crap. Then there's the rusty roof. Pics and info in this other thread. I have decided to get this repaired professionally, but I'll update that thread. This is why the headliner will stay out for now. I'll be getting the roof and bonnet resprayed at the same time the rust is fixed. I also had an interesting issue with my drivers door lock.  For a small period I was having issues getting any 12v power to the car - I mean *any*. It would have no dash lights, nothing. It happened while I was at the shops and I couldn't get in the car. So, we had 2 problems. The most pressing here is that I was locked out. I have only a single physical key hole on the car, the drivers door and no amount of turning would unlock the car. Surely it doesn't need power for this? The second issue is why am I losing all power periodically, The battery isn't dead, its almost like the battery isn't even there. Two issues that were surprisingly easy to fix. You fellow BMW over-engineering lovers will appreciate this. The lock in the door has 5 states; mechanical lock, electric lock, neutral, electric unlock, mechanical unlock achieved at -90 degrees, -45 degrees, 0 degrees, 45 degrees and 90 degrees. Although, the unlock is towards the front of the car, so opposite for LHD countries. Sticking the key in and turning 45 left or right is what is used 99% of the time. It activates the central locking etc. 90 degrees is for dead battery access and, obvs, only un/locks the one door. But because the mechanical lock is never used and is 27 years old, it seizes up. I was totally unable to turn the key far enough to get to the mechanical unlock (At the time of locking myself out, I didn't even know this was a thing). I eventually did it with some vicegrips and teflon spray.  I made a quick vid for other E39 peeps.   The battery issue is totally new to me also - It wasn't making sufficient contact between the post and the terminal. The terminal was bolted on tight, but the car wouldn't have power. After checking the battery with my multimeter I accidentally contacted the terminal and the battery post and the car got power. The battery was only a few years old and in good condition. I cleaned the post and the terminal with a wire brush, bolted it back on tight and never had the issue again. I'm still surprised that despite having solid contact it didn't work. Also, the car was getting Warragamba sized pools of water in the back when it rained. My initial concern was another rust problem. But when I went out on Weds while it was raining and while I had no headliner in I could see a steady stream of water coming through the roof mounted aerial. As this aerial is for the (now removed) car phone I pulled it out and whacked a blanking grommet in the hole. It seems fine now. I'm thinking I might get the hole permanently filled when the rust is fixed. Moving forward and things in progress; The tailgate needs some attention. I have taken all the trim off to clean it all and address some small rust spots. I have partially done all of this but I'll finish it up hopefully this weekend. As all the trim are now entirely devoid of trim clips I have bought a heap of strong velcro and I'm hoping it does a good enough job as any of this trim in good condition is super expensive and usually in Europe as we dont have many of the wagons here. Suspension and brakes!!! This is exciting. In the front; New control arms New sway bar links New lower Eibach springs (the only modification I'm planning on this car) M Sport shocks (these came with the car and will replace the longer shocks in the car) New top mounts Used 540i calipers (stock brakes suck!) New 540i disks and pads (22x296 mm for 528 and 30x334 mm for 540i) New front wheel bearings (thank all that is holy for bolt on bearings!) Annnnd in the back; New control arms New sway bar links Adjustable air suspension arms (fool the car into what the current height is so the self levelling suspension can match the new front ride height) New ball joints I'll also be doing a brake fluid flush while I'm in there. I'm planning on switching the car over to the 16's that came with it so I can clean up and respray the M Sport 17's. They've lost a lot of colour over the years and have some gutter rash. None of this will start until the E90 is back.
    • soviet_merlin
      My BMW 335i

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      You mean you will regret it for drifting duties? I don't quite follow.
×
×
  • Create New...