Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, can someone tell me the difference between an r33 gtst auto and manual performance wise. is the manual hugely faster or not really? do they both feel about the same in terms of acceleration?

Cheers.

oh, and how would an auto r33 gtst compare to say an r32 gtst manual and a manual vs commodore.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/180696-r33-gts-t-auto-vs-manual/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 118
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

manual will always be better and more fun

youll regret it if you buy an auto

the manual is much more exciting and gives you more of a driving experience

the auto will be slower and runs less boost factory as well

the manual will hold more value and probably easier to fix as its more common

for my 2cents , go for the manual. it will allow you to take advantage of the turbo's power and have another to reduce your speed quickly with a manual. If you add any kind of mods you will wish you had a manual and like every person, the only time it is a problem is when you are shut in traffic.

Manul=184 @ the flywheel

With these mods: Apexi powerFC, boost control, FMIC, Walbro FP, 3" exhaust, split dump pipe= +195RWKW

Yeah but how do they compare performance wise? The car im looking at is about $5000 cheaper than the same year and condition but manual, and theres no way i can afford that atm (or for the next four or so years). basically what im asking is, is a auto gtst skyline a lot slower than a manual or not? i drive an AU Falcon auto atm, how would it compare to that? I dont mind driving an auto, just wanna know about performance.

Oh, also, will i still get that nice pshhht between shifts with the auto?

Cheers.

automatic sports cars should only be for the disabled. are you disabled?

edit: ok so actual helpful infomation. power wise better to get manual. economic wise, better to get manual. maintenance cost wise, better to get manual. drive ability wise, better to get manual. for blow off valve "pshhhts" between shifts, only able to on manual.

Edited by InterCooL

i love my auto. ill find it hard to do a manual conversion unless i get taken away by the idea of making it a track car. the difference in performance isnt as bad as these bias mo-fo's make it out to be. it is a bit slower stock vs. stock. but once the mods start coming and you get some direct shifts (valve body upgrade, or emanage ultimate A/T control) you will be pulling some impressive times.

some people ask me, why auto????

i reply.. why manual??

i also have an m3 and it is manual - and i enjoy driving my skyline more than it.

i made 13.9 1/4 mile with a fmic, exhaust and pod...... and some shitty starts with some shitty el-cheapo 215's. guys with manuals with the same mods are making 14.1-14.2's.

ive also taken it through a few hard runs through the twisties, and the box (with an aftermarket cooler) takes it like a dirty s**t.

dangerman4 has run his auto with 300+kw and was fine. anyone who CANT have as much fun in an auto than a manual cant drive for shit.

edit:

maintenance wise: a complete box costs $300 max and will last you YEARS. mines lasted the car around 14yrs and isnt showing any signs of weakness.

oil: once every 40,000km's $40 a pop.

trans oil cooler kit: $80.

fuel consumption: im making 400-430km on a tank.

want bov noise: you need to back off the accelerator to make the car shift when you want it to. you can also make it shift just that tiny bit harder if you take your foot off completely then hit it again. TSHHHHH!!

performance: want full boost through gear changes? get a shift kit and go for your life.

Edited by SECURITY

love my auto i still say a lot of the manual guys have never driven a auto skyline and have no idea what there on about a auto skyline is not like driving a auto commyfalcondore they actually go .

ive driven a manual skyline my son has one but i prefer the auto anyday there no dearer to fix than a manual u can pick the boxes up for bugga all cause there not as populer. a good manual box will cost a grand plus also clutches are a pain to change .just get a mv auto shift kit and ya wont look back

The absolute, number one best aspect of driving a manual car is the driver involvement. Simple as that.

You wont find huge performance differences in stock manual vs auto R33s, it would likely be noticable but not major.

Basically, it is inconsequential.

If you *really* enjoy driving, get the manual. If youre driving the car in heavy traffic and dont think you could put up with a manual, consider the auto.

When i got my car it was auto and i loved it. I regret changing it to manual to be honest.

I have 2 x R33 RB25DET gearbox's that i am willing to swap for with a whole conversion kit for a high performance build auto setup.

I want to go back to auto cos i want to run my low 10sec pass!!

Auto's are great fun to drive when it comes to turbo's but you can have a bit more fun in a manual but it will cost you tyres and trouble from the cops in the long run.

So yeah i really think its up to you and what you can afford. if you can only afford a auto then go for it the cars are still great fun to drive.

id reccomend going the auto, i own both a worked r32 gtr and a vl turbo street/race car and i tell you theres no better feeling than dropping the transbrake at 20psi, short shifting straight to top gear and stepping the whole street. i do admit the gtr is more fun through the twisty stuff but nothing beats top gear skids ;)

Man I love my auto, it's fun to drive and great for windy roads and stuff.... everyone asks if i'm going to convert to manual and no one has showed me any major advantages. Sweet you can clutch kick a manual but when your able to stomp your foot in drive and spin wheels from 40km/h that is alot more impressive than flat changin and chirpin the wheels...

but yeah everyone one is going to have there favourites the best reply when people ask you why auto...... cause i need the other hand free to keep your missus entertained

I think these guys have posted some really valid information but if u want the large BOV sound go the manual as the auto just shifts into next gear and the turbo beings to spool where with the manual, when u go to change gear, it slower, the throttle body shuts and the larger amount of compressed air is let out through the BOV hence, pffft! lol, i own a manual GTS skyline and am just about to have a conversion done (read my thread in N/A section) but i agree, a skyline is a skyline, go with what u can afford and if you don't mind driving an automatic then don't worry about what others think, you can trick up both manuals ans auto to run good times and perform well.

Hope this helps, Hame {sorry for long post}

think these guys have posted some really valid information but if u want the large BOV sound go the manual as the auto just shifts into next gear and the turbo beings to spool where with the manual, when u go to change gear, it slower, the throttle body shuts and the larger amount of compressed air is let out through the BOV hence, pffft!

or in the manual you can just keep your foot on the gas when you change gears and there will be no spool time either. and a stock auto will change gears slower than most people can change gears in a manual. on average at the drags (until you get to the much quicker cars) a manual will run much faster than an auto. in standard form it would be nearly half a second.

Sweet you can clutch kick a manual but when your able to stomp your foot in drive and spin wheels from 40km/h that is alot more impressive than flat changin and chirpin the wheels...
if you can get an auto to spin the wheels by stomping it in drive you could do the same in a manual. but in the manual you don't have to wait for it to make it's mind up about what gear it wants to drop back into. you just put it in a gear and stomp it.

auto gearboxes are heavier than manual ones as well.

if you want a 10 second car go an auto. if it is going to remain pretty much stock then go manual if you want more fun or auto if it is going to be a daily driver.

Look, i wouldn't give up my manual line for the world... BUT if i didn't have a skyline and my other option was some shit 6 commonwhore. I'd take the auto. If its a 5k difference and the car is in good nick then go for it, you can always grow some balls later if its really buggin you being ghey ;)

Depends where you live and what you do with the car. If you do a lot of city driving than maybe an auto is more ideal. A lot of stopping and starting and pushing the clutch in and changing gears might get a bit annoying.

Ever been on the on-ramps in the underground/multilevel carparks? Stuck on the on-ramp waiting for cars to move and its bumper to bumper?

Imagine trying to ride your heavy duty clutch just to move 2 feet.

If it was auto? Much easier.

There's nothing wrong with auto's. If eating while driving is your thing then get an auto.

I'd prefer a manual as your actually "driving" the car & you have more control to what it does. But if it came down to it, I don't think having an auto would be bad at all. But I'd still choose manual over auto any day ;)

Edited by KeyMaker

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
×
×
  • Create New...