Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

There is a 600hp ATI balancer, which is obviously cheaper than the 1000hp. I paid about $600 for my ATI 600hp balancer, as i do not intend to make more than 350rwkw on my car.

is that cutting it a bit fine? 350 x 1.34 = 469 rwhp. what drivetrain loss are you expecting? just curious because i'd have an ATI by now if it wasn't for the cost of the bigger one.

The ATI are obviously the better balancer but the new ROSS balancers are a very good unit. Especially for under $500 (unless of course it's a GTR). Even then you can use a GTR balancer, you just need to change to larger belts.

Things have come a long way in the performance industry in the last 2-3 years and even moreso in the last 12 months. Either balancer is going to see you safely through to 9k. I know of just as many people running ATI as ROSS and none have any complaints on either one. All are over 400rwhp, 2 over 600.

yeh sorry peeps... shoulda made it more clear.. it is for an rb26. to be honest i haven't priced either through my supplier, but have just done some internet research, and the ross ones seem to be atleast 300 cheaper then the ati. i don't intend to make 1000hp, i won't push it much further then 500@wheels.. and i know of plenty of cars still using the standard balancer at that power(if its good enough for 2BNVS to make 600rwhp, then it'll b ok for 500!). but... my engine didn't come with one.. so its just an excuse to buy a better one :) ATI seems to be the go, but if the ross is substantially cheaper i think i'll go with that. thanks for everyone's 2c. muchly appreciated

Edited by sic200
is that cutting it a bit fine? 350 x 1.34 = 469 rwhp. what drivetrain loss are you expecting? just curious because i'd have an ATI by now if it wasn't for the cost of the bigger one.

My rb30det will have a GT3076 hanging off the side. With all my performance parts, i am looking at anything between 300-330rwkw. The 600hp balancer is more than enough, and i wouldn't be surprised if the balancers are "underrated" to ensure a minimum of 600hp capacity.

Also i am sure that if people are able to run big HP figures using the std balancer, then even if i exceed over 600hp, the ATI balancer would still perform better than the factory one; Or would other problems (unknown to myself) occur ??

If i assume a 20% drivetain loss: (Is this too low an assumption?)

600hp x 0.73 = 438kw (at the crank)

438kw x 0.80 = 350.4rwkw

Yep same here...comparing ATI to Ross is like comparing a merc to a mini.

i thought you had a ross balancer? I guess you made the switch? which makes you well qualified to ask which is better! :)

ok... so next question.. if you have had an ross balancer and switched to a ati one... what difference's did you notice? ie. what comparison have you done to be able to say the ross balancer is cheese, and the ati one is the cheese? are there the 2 different types in the ross brand also? ie a 600hp version, and a 1000hp version? or just the one size fits all...

We sell plenty of ross and ati balancers at work.... for alot of RB26's!

You can't really compare Ross to Ati balancers, as said its like comparing a VS SS to a R32 GTR in track performance. The Ross and ATI balancers are both made for very different setups and applications.

Ati are and always will be a top end balancer, High punishment, long lasting and just made to a much better quality.

Ross balancers are great for minimal to medium amounts of abuse, random track days etc, but if you've spent considerable amounts of cash on your RB26 you shouldn't go past the ATI units, there not cheap but when you see the quality you understand!

Most of the High HP GTRS use the ATI Super Dampner 1000HP balancers... but the 600HP ones are great for track cars, drift and just plain tough street cars..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Put a fuel pressure gauge on it. Replace the turbos. Probably completely separate issues.
    • What copper washer do you guys use on the bleeder bolts? The existing one I have I had no idea where to find it in a local store, I did buy some online but that are only 1mm thick whereas my old one is 2mm+ thick and when I put the new washer out and squeeze the top radiator hose I can hear a bit of air but not with the old one. Does this matter? The new one doesn't leak, but the inner diameter is a bit loose whereas the old one threads on the bolt.
    • Howdy all, after being out a few weeks ago on a spirited drive in my GTR I have 2 issues that oddly have appeared at the same time. Whilst accelerating quickly through the gears all of a sudden i’ve lost power at the top of third gear (below redline around 6000rpm) for no obvious reason.    From that point onwards the car has been running rich on idle, won’t really rev under load without a ton of black smoke and the odd backfire, and dying as a pull up to a set of lights unless I keep the revs up around 1500rpm. In addition when shutting down the car that same night (I was 10 minutes from home) I noticed one of the turbos was significantly noisy on wind down when shutting off the engine. After letting the car cool down overnight it starts up fine, although once it gets to temp the revs start to creep up and down, the exhaust is darker than it should be and it also sounds like it’s running rich (fat note) I’ve put a new set of plugs in it - no change, the old plugs all seemed OK with two of them being somewhat richer/fueled up than the other 3 with 1 being borderline. I’ve smoked tested the intake system via the front of the Turbos, found a split vacuum hose going to the factory boost gauge sender, which I have since replaced.  Also found another leak on the gasket coming off the rear turbo outlet, have also replaced this. After fixing both of these leaks - still have the running rich issue. I’ve also tried another pair of AFM’s - no change here After pulling off the front turbo intake pipes, there is obvious shaft play in the front turbo, which now hisses loudly on light revvs although I can’t see why this would make the car run funny even under idle. I’m curious to know why it’s running rich before I potentially replace/rebuild turbos. The car is completely stock <50,000kms  other than an exhaust. Oil and coolant are all clear. I haven’t bothered with coil packs as it looks like they won’t be the issue due to condition of the plugs. Any help appreciated as I cry myself to sleep!
    • No probs at all. I used to love trying to dig up obscure info for those in need where possible going back 20+ years on SAU.  I did have another look and couldn't come up with any closer match. I'm leaning towards those skirts in your first pic are custom fitments, cut down/extended or from another car entirely and modded to fit an R34 sedan. I would've thought someone in Japan had them and taken a photo at some stage over the last 2 decades but there's nothing. Someone out there must know surely.
×
×
  • Create New...