Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

be interesting to see your results, a mate fitted the 650 to his 1j and the claims of 30% better spool than an equivalent garrett didnt pan out, she is extremely laggy (5000rpm?) but that being said the car makes alot more power than it did with a .63 reared gt35 on the same boost (440 to 480rwhp)

whatever you do dont damage it, waiting time on replacement parts for the turbo is in the 2-3month range

Edited by DCIEVE
  • Replies 66
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Nice engine SLY33, ex maniforl is a work of art!

Just a quick question though (provided its not top secret info):

What cams are you running in that purple beast?

Good luck on the engine dyno! Im sure she'll pull out some serious numbers once run in!

cheers guys.

the engine dyno im using is currently apart for some maintenance. im hoping to get it run in/tuned as soon as its back together.

Cams are Jun 272's. It will be interesting to see how this thing drives, everything about it has become more focussed on top end flow, rather than response. The only drivability/response component in its favour is the 2.8litre stroker crank! There was going to be a 6 throttle nismo plenum to help with the response, but that got put aside for the all-out hypertune manifold.

All i want of this build is to have a bit of a scare when i find enough road to put the foot down. If i want a good responsive package and some tail out fun, well thats what the GTS-t is for :miner:

(for those that were interested in the extrude honed stock manifold results on my GTS-t, it should hopefully be on and tuned in a couple of weeks, will post the results)

Edited by SLY33
the engine dyno im using is currently apart for some maintenance. im hoping to get it run in/tuned as soon as its back together.

Cams are Jun 272's. It will be interesting to see how this thing drives, everything about it has become more focussed on top end flow, rather than response. The only drivability/response component in its favour is the 2.8litre stroker crank! There was going to be a 6 throttle nismo plenum to help with the response, but that got put aside for the all-out hypertune manifold.

All i want of this build is to have a bit of a scare when i find enough road to put the foot down. If i want a good responsive package and some tail out fun, well thats what the GTS-t is for :stupid:

Very nice - look forward to seeing how this comes out. Are 272s big enough for an 850hp odd turbo?

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 6 months later...
  • 3 months later...

So far it made 760HP @flywheel at 24psi. Would have liked an even 800 but i guess its more than enough as it is.

its going back in the car now, will try get some pics up. Will be interesting to see how the rwkw reading will translate back to the flywheel reading once its done.

is there gonna be a significant difference at the end of the day with a x-force vs another?

I just used what the engine builder rec'd, he reckons it will do the job..

btw fuel is 98 pump plus 10% methanol

But yeah she looks pretty laggy! Goes something like this, 4000rpm 200HP, 5000rpm 300HP then between 5000-6000 rpm the power doubles from 300-600HP. Peaks somewhere round 8200rpm.

Will get the dyno sheet up..

Looking at the power delivery, if i were to build again id definitly go a 3litre and perhaps a slightly smaller turbo. But no doubt this will still be fun :yes:

Edited by SLY33
Nawww no aircon :)

Dude! Tell me about it! I said to my engine builder i wanted to keep it, but no room for condenser and fan.. He said later on we could do something custom... Car will barely get driven anyway as i dont live in Australia anymore! Offers to buy this car may be considered!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...