Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

DrMoShen - I have an AXIS that has had the factory stereo removed.

The entire plastic dash surround has been replaced with a new one that takes a double DIN unit. It doesn't quite colour match, but you wouldn't notice at first.

I've got an Eclipse CD5030 head unit installed that works really well.

The radio is hooked up to the factory antenna and the reception is good. You just need an adapter to combine the two antennas.

DrMoShen - I have an AXIS that has had the factory stereo removed.

The entire plastic dash surround has been replaced with a new one that takes a double DIN unit. It doesn't quite colour match, but you wouldn't notice at first.

I've got an Eclipse CD5030 head unit installed that works really well.

The radio is hooked up to the factory antenna and the reception is good. You just need an adapter to combine the two antennas.

Cheers.

What swayed you towards the Eclipse over other units?

It was recommended by the installer (http://www.fhrxstudios.com.au/)

It talks well to 3G iPhones, and has a very adjustable EQ.

Did you just put in the head unit or did you do speakers, amp, sub etc as well?

so have you found one you want to buy yet?

I know what I want. I've just got to wait until one comes up.

I'm probably going to be stuck with the car (for better or worse) for 10 years so I've got to make sure I'm happy with it.

so have you found one you want to buy yet?

I know what I want. I've just got to wait until one comes up.

I'm probably going to be stuck with the car (for better or worse) for 10 years so I've got to make sure I'm happy with it.

OK so we all now have a stock item we can buy off the shelf here in Australia rather than going the whole Japan or US route.

A couple of months ago Danny(for those that know him) approached HDI to get them to develop an intercooler kit to suit the M35 in Australia. Those kits are now available from HDI as a bolt on production run item. Please note that like all business's if they don't get the sales they will drop it from there line up.

The kit uses the latest technology in IC's being the GT2 core. It's made a huge difference from the bottom end through the midrange to the top end in my car. It also has an awesome displacement of heat even in 40 degree weather.

Kit pricing as follows but will need to be confirmed with Jason at HDI:

*Full kit with IC, all piping, clamps and fan - $899

*IC only - $450

*There is a cheaper option but you will have to talk to HDI directly.

http://www.hybrid-power.com/index.php

P.S. More photo's are available just PM me though.

post-37023-1261344614_thumb.jpg

post-37023-1261344641_thumb.jpg

post-37023-1261344873_thumb.jpg

Edited by Jetwreck
OK so we all now have a stock item we can buy off the shelf here in Australia rather than going the whole Japan or US route.

A couple of months ago Danny(for those that know him) approached HDI to get them to develop an intercooler kit to suit the M35 in Australia. Those kits are now available from HDI as a bolt on production run item. Please note that like all business's if they don't get the sales they will drop it from there line up.

The kit uses the latest technology in IC's being the GT2 core. It's made a huge difference from the bottom end through the midrange to the top end in my car. It also has an awesome displacement of heat even in 40 degree weather.

Kit pricing as follows but will need to be confirmed with Jason at HDI:

*Full kit with IC, all piping, clamps and fan - $899

*IC only - $450

*There is a cheaper option but you will have to talk to HDI directly.

http://www.hybrid-power.com/index.php

P.S. More photo's are available just PM me though.

Did they say how much to install. .

Did they say how much to install. .

it's not a big job...give em a ring....I would say about $300 though as it takes about 2hr's. If they wont I will do it for you Jules.....for a small cost :down:

it's not a big job...give em a ring....I would say about $300 though as it takes about 2hr's. If they wont I will do it for you Jules.....for a small cost :)

Cheers. .will keep you in mind. . . my issue is that I lack tools. . well suitable tools. .

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

I think for the extra cost ($200 extra) that I will go with a Blitz FMIC kit through Just Jap even if its just for piece of mind.

Blitz FMIC

blitziccs.jpg

Some more pics from rhdjapan.com where they have an awesome amount of parts for the M35 :thumbsup:

Image1.jpg

Image2.jpg

Image3.jpg

Image4.jpg

Image5.jpg

Image6.jpg

I would say the GT2 core with its extruded fins would sh*t all over the blitz folded fin core for flow and cooling. I suggest you research the pro's and cons of each before the purchace.

Oh, didn't realise there was much difference. I am new to turbo tuning so please excuse me :P

I would say the GT2 core with its extruded fins would sh*t all over the blitz folded fin core for flow and cooling. I suggest you research the pro's and cons of each before the purchace.

+1.

I did a bit of digging into this one as I am looking for a FMIC upgrade.

Can't comment on the temp drop that each cooler performs, but regarding pressure drop (efficiency of the core - less is better)

Blitz CS - roughly 1psi pressure loss at 20psi

HDi - 0.2psi pressure loss at 20psi (claimed)

  • 2 weeks later...

Hey Folks (1st Post)

Just like to say a big thanks in advance for all the helpful information in here.

My partner and I are looking into buying an M35 Stagea (hopefully either and Axis or AR-X) and reading through this has cleared some questions up automatically.

I can't wait to get down to Sydney and have a look at some up close and in person and test drive one.

I'm sure you'll be hearing from me more often hahah..

Chris.

  • 3 weeks later...

I'm looking at buying a 2002-2003 ARX turbo but was wondering what people are paying for insurance now. I'm finding it difficult to get a quote as it's a "dodgy import" (same old story I had back in 2001 with my u13 bluebird attesa). Oh, I'm in WA, 38 (old git) etc etc so should be able to get reasonable rates....

Love the car but I don't feel like paying $1100 a year for insurance especially when something like a turbo territory is $615!

Cheers

Edited by andynogo

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...