Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I never ran the single Walbro (I modified the pump housing to fit a Tomei gtr pump) because I listened to the heresay in the forced induction section. I have since changed my tune with regards to them. For all but the highest pressure setups Walbro's work and fit perfectly. Any more flow will require a complete fuel system upgrade.

Save your cash and time and fit what works, but you will still need to rewire the power to the pump with a relay.

I think Cam was hoping to save a buck and run the factory pump. Of course if it cant supply the fuel he needs there will be another tune on the cards which will negate any savings.

I don't think we did this on mine. Seems to be running ok? Am I going to hit fuel cut down the track?

I think Cam was hoping to save a buck and run the factory pump. Of course if it cant supply the fuel he needs there will be another tune on the cards which will negate any savings.

Actually no, I wanted to see what we could get out of a plug and play ECU with stock fuelling.

I'm thinking slightly differently and thinking I should do injectors and fuel pump before the tune.

Is the pump body in the M35 the same as the V35/G35/350Z?

The filter is the same....the body ain't....we have a return system.

Not a bad idea to do injectors and fuel pump first....IMO there is no way you will max out the standard fuel system with the stock turbo/boost even with dump exhaust and SP ect!

Edited by Jetwreck

The filter is the same....the body ain't....we have a return system.

Not a bad idea to do injectors and fuel pump first....IMO there is no way you will max out the standard fuel system with the stock turbo/boost even with dump exhaust and SP ect!

Probably, but my plan is to get the supporting mods in place then do the turbo. But if it can be tuned to stop maxing out the injectors at least i know i dont have to hurry.

Is our pump body the same as anything?

Just curious. Thanks for the info.

Where did you get your injectors from Scotty? Much difficulty making them fit? (I gather the Xspurt's aren't drop in, where as the Deschworks are).

I havent tried them, only the newer Bosch/ID/Xspurts are going to give you the smooth idle though. Be wary of other large injectors. I think I can get the Xspurts for around $100 each from the wholesaler, Injectors online.

I havent tried them, only the newer Bosch/ID/Xspurts are going to give you the smooth idle though. Be wary of other large injectors. I think I can get the Xspurts for around $100 each from the wholesaler, Injectors online.

Any reason you went from ID's to Xspurts?

They are the same thing, all based off bosch bodys and flow matched apparently. Mine idles better now than with the 610's in the rail. They drop in if you remove the spacers but you will have to wire/crimp the new plugs in.

Ryan, looking at this pump the sock pickup is the same as Walbro, as is the power plug. Perhaps this deatschwerks IS going to fit ok... Buy it and try?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/379042-deatschwerks-300lph-fuel-pump/

Another (interim) option is to replace the stock pressure reg with an adjustable one. I bought one for $60 & put it in today. The OEM pump is now supplying more fuel courtesy of higher pressures & I had to back the AFR's off a fair bit across the mid range. And at the top end they look pretty good now instead of a bit lean.

I haven't had enough time to tune it properly, but looking very promising so far.

Ryan, looking at this pump the sock pickup is the same as Walbro, as is the power plug. Perhaps this deatschwerks IS going to fit ok... Buy it and try?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/379042-deatschwerks-300lph-fuel-pump/

Cheers Scotty. Thats what I was thinking, it looks the same as the Walbro, so does the Aeromotive, hence the question. Might organise that shortly.

Are the $60 ebay FPRs any good or do you need to spend the couple of hundred to get a Sard etc?

Be careful running much higher than stock pressure, the pump flows less and will only supply a dribble at over 80psi. What boost are you running?

Stock boost atm. Static pressure is about 52psi, but it's a rising rate FPR so should increase to about 65psi at my current boost level. I won't up the boost to more than about 16psi anyway, so this setup with stock pump & injectors could do me until I need a new turbo (providing AFR's are able to adjusted to cope with the extra 3 psi when the time comes).

Edited by Commsman

Are the $60 ebay FPRs any good or do you need to spend the couple of hundred to get a Sard etc?

Sard would be better I think, but I didn't really know if this would work out as good as it did, so I didn't want an expensive item sitting in the shed unused. Having said that, I was impressed with the feel of mine, very solidly cut from billet aluminium. The hose clamps were crap tho...

You don't always need to buy name brands to achieve a good result.... and sometimes you do. It's just knowing when :happy:

.

Edited by Commsman

There's a heap of fake sard regs around so be careful. I'm using an SX reg and it's been fine.

Rising rate regs usually increase the fuel pressure double the boost so you could be up there, do you have a gauge in the dash?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not sure the US can import anything other than the C34 Stagea's, but if you can and you need to to tow, DO NOT under any circumstances get an M35 Stagea. If it is just as a family car and your country/state allows it, absolutely and definitely get an M35 (3.5L if possible as it is effectively a 350Z) over a C34.
    • Punch your VIN (nm35-xxxxxx) into Amayama.com You can see everything there quite easily.
    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
×
×
  • Create New...