Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I never ran the single Walbro (I modified the pump housing to fit a Tomei gtr pump) because I listened to the heresay in the forced induction section. I have since changed my tune with regards to them. For all but the highest pressure setups Walbro's work and fit perfectly. Any more flow will require a complete fuel system upgrade.

Save your cash and time and fit what works, but you will still need to rewire the power to the pump with a relay.

I think Cam was hoping to save a buck and run the factory pump. Of course if it cant supply the fuel he needs there will be another tune on the cards which will negate any savings.

I don't think we did this on mine. Seems to be running ok? Am I going to hit fuel cut down the track?

I think Cam was hoping to save a buck and run the factory pump. Of course if it cant supply the fuel he needs there will be another tune on the cards which will negate any savings.

Actually no, I wanted to see what we could get out of a plug and play ECU with stock fuelling.

I'm thinking slightly differently and thinking I should do injectors and fuel pump before the tune.

Is the pump body in the M35 the same as the V35/G35/350Z?

The filter is the same....the body ain't....we have a return system.

Not a bad idea to do injectors and fuel pump first....IMO there is no way you will max out the standard fuel system with the stock turbo/boost even with dump exhaust and SP ect!

Edited by Jetwreck

The filter is the same....the body ain't....we have a return system.

Not a bad idea to do injectors and fuel pump first....IMO there is no way you will max out the standard fuel system with the stock turbo/boost even with dump exhaust and SP ect!

Probably, but my plan is to get the supporting mods in place then do the turbo. But if it can be tuned to stop maxing out the injectors at least i know i dont have to hurry.

Is our pump body the same as anything?

Just curious. Thanks for the info.

Where did you get your injectors from Scotty? Much difficulty making them fit? (I gather the Xspurt's aren't drop in, where as the Deschworks are).

I havent tried them, only the newer Bosch/ID/Xspurts are going to give you the smooth idle though. Be wary of other large injectors. I think I can get the Xspurts for around $100 each from the wholesaler, Injectors online.

I havent tried them, only the newer Bosch/ID/Xspurts are going to give you the smooth idle though. Be wary of other large injectors. I think I can get the Xspurts for around $100 each from the wholesaler, Injectors online.

Any reason you went from ID's to Xspurts?

They are the same thing, all based off bosch bodys and flow matched apparently. Mine idles better now than with the 610's in the rail. They drop in if you remove the spacers but you will have to wire/crimp the new plugs in.

Ryan, looking at this pump the sock pickup is the same as Walbro, as is the power plug. Perhaps this deatschwerks IS going to fit ok... Buy it and try?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/379042-deatschwerks-300lph-fuel-pump/

Another (interim) option is to replace the stock pressure reg with an adjustable one. I bought one for $60 & put it in today. The OEM pump is now supplying more fuel courtesy of higher pressures & I had to back the AFR's off a fair bit across the mid range. And at the top end they look pretty good now instead of a bit lean.

I haven't had enough time to tune it properly, but looking very promising so far.

Ryan, looking at this pump the sock pickup is the same as Walbro, as is the power plug. Perhaps this deatschwerks IS going to fit ok... Buy it and try?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/379042-deatschwerks-300lph-fuel-pump/

Cheers Scotty. Thats what I was thinking, it looks the same as the Walbro, so does the Aeromotive, hence the question. Might organise that shortly.

Are the $60 ebay FPRs any good or do you need to spend the couple of hundred to get a Sard etc?

Be careful running much higher than stock pressure, the pump flows less and will only supply a dribble at over 80psi. What boost are you running?

Stock boost atm. Static pressure is about 52psi, but it's a rising rate FPR so should increase to about 65psi at my current boost level. I won't up the boost to more than about 16psi anyway, so this setup with stock pump & injectors could do me until I need a new turbo (providing AFR's are able to adjusted to cope with the extra 3 psi when the time comes).

Edited by Commsman

Are the $60 ebay FPRs any good or do you need to spend the couple of hundred to get a Sard etc?

Sard would be better I think, but I didn't really know if this would work out as good as it did, so I didn't want an expensive item sitting in the shed unused. Having said that, I was impressed with the feel of mine, very solidly cut from billet aluminium. The hose clamps were crap tho...

You don't always need to buy name brands to achieve a good result.... and sometimes you do. It's just knowing when :happy:

.

Edited by Commsman

There's a heap of fake sard regs around so be careful. I'm using an SX reg and it's been fine.

Rising rate regs usually increase the fuel pressure double the boost so you could be up there, do you have a gauge in the dash?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
×
×
  • Create New...