Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi

im pretty new to the whole turbo world.

I have a Series 2 R33 GTST with pod filter, catback exhaust and turbotech boost controller.

I am running 12 psi and decided to perform a modification that was feature in the latest High Performance Imports magazine.

The modification involved cutting out 1 inch of the rubber intake pipe and installing a metal pipe in place of the rubber that was removed. This was done to ensure the rubber pipe stays all the way open during boost. According to HPI under high boost the rubber intake pipe can occassionally suck in on its self during high amounts of boost resulting in lost power.

Anyway.

As i am driving and hold my foot flat to the floor i hit 13psi and the car just backs off all of a sudden it scares the shit outta me.

What have i done??

Is this the wastegate opening??

I know the boost im running isnt safe, but if only hit 13psi twice and the car has lost all power both times. At the moment im trying to drive it on vacuum until my mechanic down tunes the boost to 10psi.

Does anyone know what i have done wrong??

Thanks

You are hitting rich and retard. The ECU richens the fuel mix and retards the timing, so you dont damage the engine. Run 10psi, much safer.

Edited by stolen_s15

EDIT - beaten to it..

it's not about safe.

it's about airflow.

R33 and over 10psi of airflow on stock ecu = rich and retard which you will feel as a bad missfire/power loss/jerking type thing.

with the FMIC it will be worse.

the air will be cooler therefore more dense which will mean it will cut out at lower revs say about "4500rpm"

you need some sort of ecu controling thing.

Cheap = SAFC

expensive and better = aftermarket programable ECU (Power FC, MICROGUESS, WOLF, etc etc)

Edited by GTST
i hit R&R the other day for the first time when i installed an tuned my ebc. freaks you out abit hey...ha i run mine on 11psi which i find safe.

yeah, it scared the absolute shit out of me.

I thought they didnt make SAFC's anymore?

might just need to get a second hand one if thats the case.

considering there is metal reinforcing on the rb25 intake pipe as it is you'd have to be running a LOT of boost...

I have seen one do it with only 260rwkw, took ages trying to work it out on the road, but a good tuner shoudl diagnose ti pretty quick on a dyno.

Edited by stolen_s15

ive found that every s and r series turbo car has the reinforcement inside the intake pipr, its not a steel tube if that what your looking for, its just a spring that winds itself arount the intake pipe

Mate of mine has a drift R32 2 door with a 25 in it and found a major power drop one night at a drift prac.... pulled into the pits and while free revving the engine the intake pipe was sucking closed.... they had a look at the pod air filter which was almost black it was that dirty... blew some compressed air through it and all was sweet again. only making 220 rwkw on 1.1 bar too so power is not so much a factor with the stock intake pipe

hmmm maybe someone took mine out, it had a pod on it when i bought it, definitely nothing in there like a spring.

I might give the steel pipe insert a crack for something to do

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • HFM BM57 has a "bad" knee point, IIRC. It's not the same thing as the later R chassis MC.
    • The ATTESSA is functionally identical to R34; there were a bunch of JDM models that continued ATTESSA including Fuga/Q70, Skyline/Q50, Cima etc as an option. All with Auto only and I think mostly for snow regions. AFAIK there were no AWD VR30DDTT sold in Australia - it is on my to do list to check regs for racing a LHD car in Targa/ATR/AASA/CAMS events because if I can get the auto to work it would be interesting to run a 4wd car The Ecuteck TCM tuning is the same model as their ECU tuning, they already have it for R35 and Dose's favourite, BMW. You buy "points" to allow your computer to be tuned, buy either a bluetooth (phone app) or bluetooth+USB+Key (phone and PC) dongle, and pay for a tune that will be locked to your tuner ( ). You can also access the tuning software yourself but 1. it is mega expensive and 2. these computers have a billion parameters that intersect, so how could you ever spend enough time on it to get a decent result.
    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
×
×
  • Create New...