Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

My turbo standard R33 turbo is dying and one of the replacement options I'm considering is the ATP stage 2 hiflow. I have been searching but I can't really find a great deal of info on them. Now surely there are a few of you out there who have used them. If so can you please post up your experiences with them. Mods and a power graph would be great for comparison.

I am fairly sure that I'll need to upgrade my standard injectors if I go this way or use an adj fuel pressure regulator (less preferred option)

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/195703-atp-r33-stage-2-hiflow-turbo/
Share on other sites

Ok guys I can give you some insight on specs, etc.

ATP do not make a stage 1 or stage 3 high flow. They do, however make a stage 3. Don't ask me why it's like that, I don't know!

Basically, the housings (that you supply) are machined out to fit much larger compressor and exhaust wheels. The core is a new T3 item, oil and water cooled. It is a standard bush bearing core. The exhaust and compressor wheels are found in Sierra Cosworths. When 'highflowed' to these specs, they are commonly known as Sierra-Sierra turbos. They are rated at 450hp.

You will be looking at around $1495 to get this done.

Speak to Kyp Matheou.

9569 4764

ATP

1198 Dandenong Road

Murrumbeena 3163

I'm guessing it's not a bad turbo to have, and I looked into them when I was looking at getting mine high flowed. I bit the bullet and bought a GCG highflow instead. The ball bearing new garret core of those things (basically the same specs, exhaust, comp wheels, etc) was too much of a benefit for my application. They aren't cheap though, $1900.... :worship:

Scott, I may have to disagree with some of the stuff you said..

I talked to Kyp the other day and said there are about 8 different stage turbos from him for the RB25DET.

Stage 1 - uses standard RB25 compressor, Garrett Core and ex turbine ~ 200rwkw [ ~ $1320 ]

Stage 2 - uses bigger than standard compressor wheel, Garrett Core and ex turbine (back cut) ~ low 200rwkw range (my guess 220or so) [ ~ $1430 ]

Stage 3 - about 250rwkw. Can remember what the turbo consisted of. [ ~ $1680 ]

I didn't bother asking about any further ones as they don't interest me.

I can't remember whether I asked if they use bush, roller, or ball bearing core. I assumed ball bearing but I don't like assuming. I should probably ask Kyp and clear it up.

The power figures above are approx figures Kyp gave but they will vary between dynos, how much boost you're running and accompanying mods.

You could quite easily make 200rwkw on the stock turbo with supporting mods....There are quite a few members here doing so. I think with a budget around the $2500 mark and up Id be looking GT-RS if I was in your position. No messing around then, its proven, even has nice little pictures to help you install it yada yada yada.....

Not for me to say what you should do but some interesting facts .

Firstly , I doubt very much they use the actual motorsport compressor used in the RS500's turbo and it was just a tarted up Garrett compressor modded to make it hang together at high revs for extended periods . It would not be a responsive thing in a road car .

Secondly , the RS500's turbo is a dog . The only thing thats any good (and only if you use a TA34 style turbine) is the turbine housing because of its redesigned integral wastegate and vent path .

Your calls but I'd be trying to find the HKS T3 flanged IW GT28 turbine housing , they were fitted to 2530's , 2540's and the RB specific GT-RS . Once you have that any of the better GT25/28 BB cartridges will bolt on .

Cheers A .

Thanks for the input guys.. I will have to research a bit more me thinks.

I currently have 180rwkw with std turbo, basic mods, bleedvalve (12psi), PFC. I know I can make "200rwkw" but this does depend on the tune and especially the DYNO.

I don't want the turbo to stick out like dogs balls when I pop the hood so that's why I have been looking at the hiflow options. I haven't been looking at the 250rwkw mark as I thought it might be a bit of overkill for the street and daily driver. I am also worried about increasing the lag too much over standard. Saying that I figure I will need to either upgrade injectors or FPR and AFM for anything between 200rwkw to 250rwkw anyway.

Thanks Discopotato, I haven't looked where I could find all of these parts yet but I will do my best.

Edited by Fry_33

Apologies Scott.. I don't know why but I talked to Kyp today and he says he only does a stage 3 version??? I feel like a moron, but I was just saying what I was told and wrote down, weird.

Looks like the Stage 3 is rated up to 250rwkw @ 15psi, depending on your mods etc. ~$1680 changeover.

It uses a bush bearing core deisgned by Kyp. He tried roller bearing core with this setup in the past but it created compressor surge.

He will mod your oil lines and banjo bolts etc as well.

i have the same mods as you and make the same power. i'm thinking to get a 25/40 or GT-RS

group buy? haha

After the misinformation about the ATP turbo I started to look around at a few more. Not because the ATP turbos wouldn't be any good but it will give a different result to the one I'm after. I am now looking at getting a 2530, should allow me to get around the 220-230rwkw mark. Sounds like they are a very responsive turbo. I read a few posts that said the 2540 uses the same turbine as the 2530 but the compressor of the 2540 isn't matched as well to the turbine as the one in the 2530. I think it was Gary (SydnetKid) that mentioned this as well. I think they ended up not going with the 2540 for this reason and made the GT-RS.

Apologies Scott.. I don't know why but I talked to Kyp today and he says he only does a stage 3 version??? I feel like a moron, but I was just saying what I was told and wrote down, weird.

Looks like the Stage 3 is rated up to 250rwkw @ 15psi, depending on your mods etc. ~$1680 changeover.

It uses a bush bearing core deisgned by Kyp. He tried roller bearing core with this setup in the past but it created compressor surge.

He will mod your oil lines and banjo bolts etc as well.

No problems :nyaanyaa:

When I spoke to him on the phone he gave me different answers that when I went in the see him.

Hey Phil,

For your purpose i would also recommend a good second hand 2530 or 2535, but make sure they have the right flange and are NOT the sr/rb26 turbos (smaller).

Kyp was not lying when he stated that the bb hi-flows surge. The 2nd hand hi-flow i purchased (and discussed with you) was bb and had chronic compressor surge at light throttle. It was a good thing that the guy i sold it too (warned him before purchase) loved the "dose" sound and thought it was "cool".

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not sure the US can import anything other than the C34 Stagea's, but if you can and you need to to tow, DO NOT under any circumstances get an M35 Stagea. If it is just as a family car and your country/state allows it, absolutely and definitely get an M35 (3.5L if possible as it is effectively a 350Z) over a C34.
    • Punch your VIN (nm35-xxxxxx) into Amayama.com You can see everything there quite easily.
    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
×
×
  • Create New...