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Hmm turns out i actually don't have fog lights either :D. I thought i did because it said so in my car manual, but i checked recently and it turns out i don't.

Anyway, i think my parking lights are T10's and i have an R33 Series 1?

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
wot about R34 xenon headlights... anyone know wot type of bulb they are??

R34 Headlight bulbs are

Parkers: T10

Low Beam: H1

High Beam: GE 9011

Note GE 9011's were discontinued about 18 months ago,they were replaced by Toshiba 9011"s but you can also use any 9005 bulb by filing a bit off one of the tabs.

Both H1 and 9005 bulbs are as cheap as chips on everyone's favourite auction site.about $18.00 a pair including postage

mate can you take a pic of the front bar indicators next time you take em out ..never seen them with fog lights in them on a series 1 before...mine just have a slot for the parkers..wouldnt mind chasing up a set..

Edited by thizzle
  • 2 weeks later...
R34 Headlight bulbs are

Parkers: T10

Low Beam: H1

High Beam: GE 9011

Note GE 9011's were discontinued about 18 months ago,they were replaced by Toshiba 9011"s but you can also use any 9005 bulb by filing a bit off one of the tabs.

Both H1 and 9005 bulbs are as cheap as chips on everyone's favourite auction site.about $18.00 a pair including postage

If you can get a hold of the 9011's use those as they are the brightest halogen bulbs you can get.

A comparison:

http://hirheadlights.com/stats.htm

And some info on 9011's

http://hirheadlights.com/

  • 3 months later...

If anyone is interested im putting together an LED kit for the R33 series 2 (maybe more models if these become popular)

Basically replacing all of the exterior bulbs with LEDs.

Fog lights

Parker lights

Front, side and rear indicators

LED indicator flasher unit (so no more fast flashing indicators)

Reverse lights

As i already have the aftermarket LED tail lights in i wont be getting LEDs for the stop lights. I did however put LED bulbs in when i had the stock tail lights in and they looked crap.

Ill post some pics in a few weeks.

  • 3 months later...
  • 4 months later...
cheers for the help ppls

i moved the washer bottle to the side, and managed to get it out, and back in, using long nose pliers.

here's my contribution to your thread :thumbsup:

the parker bulb type, and holder. R33

post-29392-1198462460_thumb.jpg

hey just asking how did u managed to put the new light in??? I got a series 2 R33 and it is very tough to put it back...did u twist it or something?? mine is a 15mm wedge btw...so its a big bigger

  • 1 month later...

.. And be careful even with 'so-called' white LEDs. My car had DAN-666 'white' LEDs which when I was forced through a Regency defect inspection for my exhaust, they added my 'too blue parkers' to the list of things to the *new* defect list. Awesome.

Yep for the reason shown below, something that is 'less yellow' appears 'more blue' even though it is a spectrally a definate pure white (5000k to be exact) it is 'less yellow'

than a 3000K tungsten bulb.

A good example is to put the white LED next to a BLUE one, it actually appears 'more yellow' but for the clowns at Regency 'perecption is reality'

HunterLab.jpg

Edited by 666DAN
  • 4 weeks later...

Hi, does anyone know if you can upgrade the globes on the Driving lights for an R33 series 2. I see from this thread they appear to be 55W H3's and I know that for the headlights (being plastic) you shouldn't go above the stock 55w bulbs, but does the same apply for thre driving lights? (are these lenses also plastic?)

They are fog lights mate. And are pretty much illegal to use in 90% of driving conditions. Which is why i put an SMD LED cluster bulb in there, so now they are driving lights.

I could argue the point to the police if i get pulled over, i probably wont win seeing how the rest of the car breaks nearly every rule in the book ;)

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The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? 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