Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Roy, i have been toying with the idea of removing mine. I see that it is removed on n1 gtr's and alot of track cars. I dont really think having it is much of a bonus and probably a negative if you slide off the track and any great speed and need to stop?

Edited by 2630GTS

Here here, second that. For purely circuit I'd probably remove it.

I would never have crashed mine (on the street) if ABS was de-activated, but for 99% of the time would still prefer it.

IMO, 32 era abs is too slow acting and only 3 channel, therefore you'd be better off either removing it or upgrading it to something 4 channel and more modern, IF it's a circuit car.

Cant say that i have ever felt mine kick in, grabbed the odd front tyre every now and again but never felt the pulsing i would associate with ABS activating. maybe a problem with it?

Well on a bumpy circuit it will kick in - mine does at my local circuit quite alot.

Yes it is a bit slow acting & yes it is a bit heavy but I'd rather that than a flat spotted tyre.

Ok a quick list of parts and their approx weight from what has been found within posts on SAU.

this list is only the weight removed not replaced with any other items yet as stuff like exhaust needs to be replace with a difference system to get nett gain

2 x Door window, electric motor and guide for glass, switch, door card = 24kg

HICAS removal, soliniods, pipes, etc = 25kg

Fuel tank = 12kg

Steel exhaust system =15kg

Rear seat =6kg

Passenger front seat =12kg

A/C system =10kg

heater core, ducts and fans =10kg

Standard prop shaft =15kg

sound proofing ( tar like crap ) =8kg

carpet and underlay ( best guess ) =7kg

sound system AC control =10kg

interior trim ( best guess ) =8kg

Feel free to correct any of these or add some more to the list

Duncan is sure is a whole lot of work, and the sound proofing is a right pain in the a#@&.

still i have noted that i can feel the benifit of the weight off the car. Also found that the 18" wheels are lighter than stock, same with the brakes with 2 piece rotors.

about 160 + kg

will look into the added weight later this week

Looking at that list, really all you can loose on your typical street/track car like mine

would be around 100-120kg's after taking all i can out and putting all the saftey/uprated items in.

I'll get home tonite and weigh up all my aftermarket parts i have off at the current time.

cooler

drivers seat

exhaust

Bonnet

Headlight intake

Will update this in a few hours.

skylle I'm pretty sure the only difference is the later doors have side intrusion bars in them. If your gtr was imported and complied they added intrusion bars if it was early model so there is really no difference.

has anyone tried plastic windows? they are stated to be 1/4 of the weight of the automotive glass. and it can be legal on s.a roads(not sure on the others, just found a link. they legal in vic ?)

http://www.cityplastics.com.au/automotive.html <-- link

anyone know the stock weight of the front or rear windscreen?

rear quarter windows are only 1kg each or less so not worth replacing

Edited by Dan_J

im about to fit a lexan passengers window and remove the drivers (will use a net instead) You have to retain a glass windscreen for saftey in most events.

By the time you remove the glass, motor, regulator and wiring assosiated with it there can be decent savings per door.

Ive also removed all the old steel lines this week and replaced with alluminium/ speed flow fittings.

The steel ones are really not that heavy but the alloy is lighter and its fresh.

Andrew whilst you not using that headlight can I borrow it and make a mould? I want to make a carbon item but cant find a decent one to mould it from.

im about to fit a lexan passengers window and remove the drivers (will use a net instead) You have to retain a glass windscreen for saftey in most events.

surely most plastic windscreens for automotive purposes are safe :) and plastic would be saving you a pretty penny over lexan.

yer but skyline windows are hard to fit due to a frameless door and they have to be made out of 5mm material and are thermo formed to get correct curve.

easy to form them just put in boiling water for a few minutes then clamp it to the original glass to cool. would be 15 or more kgs in weight saving from all glass being replaced

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...