Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

there is a r33 gtst track car in england obviously not the same but very similar, only kind of really serious gtst/gtt model track i have seen, cannot remember its name for the life of me though. It was pulling close to 550 horse, running a motec with the dash, so you can imagine how much it would have cost. All depends on your budget if your minted then the skies the limit.

If it were stripped already with CAMS approved cage, Id put it back together with only parts I needed so its on a nice diet, nice and light.

Also maybe looking at replacing some windows with lexan?

single seat

some nice power mods, Id say 250rwkw would keep me happy - so any turbo upgrade + supporting mods.

Brake upgrade with ducting (larger rotors, braided lines, pads, could even go brake bias if you were real serious)

suspension and driveline upgrades (clutch, diff, springs, shocks, caster, camber, sway bars etc)

then light wheels (with some nice gaps for air flow) and semi slicks

If you want a bit of an idea - check out Russ's (giant's) R34 build up - sure its a GTR but you can follow similar ideas :ermm:

Get ready for big bucks and a mission.

But if you plan it out it'll be an awesome project. Hmmm sounds like fun too :ermm:

boosted Rb26 300rwkw with strong supporting mods--> lots of suspension, braking and drivetrain work. Top notch tyres.

And plenty left over too.

22" chromies

Neon Lights

doof doof

...................................................oh wait....wrong spec

suspension, brakes and tyres.....with it stripped out, you'd have a much better power to weight ratio even with the stock engine

Honestly? It would have to be very cheap.

The R34 GTT is basically as heavy as an R32 GTR, so if you are going to build a track car you are getting the weight of the GTR but the penalty of only beign a rwd platform.

Best bet is go rwd and get an R32/33 which will weigh in nice and light...or go with an R32 GTR and live with the weight only have the traction afforded by AWD

there is a r33 gtst track car in england obviously not the same but very similar, only kind of really serious gtst/gtt model track i have seen, cannot remember its name for the life of me though. It was pulling close to 550 horse, running a motec with the dash, so you can imagine how much it would have cost. All depends on your budget if your minted then the skies the limit.

You mean the Apex Performance/K sport r33?

The one in this video

Search "k sport r33" on youtube for tons more vids, seems to go pretty well :D

An R34 GTT weight 1440kg std, whats an R32? 1280, and an S13? My point is the rwd Skyline and Silvia platform can be made to be a real quick car with some very basic mods and do not require huge power.

An R34 GTT is getting up in the scales and will in turn need more power, more tyre, more brakes etc etc you are looking at the GTR end of the spectrum of spend to get the same sort of lap speed

Hehehe there you go chasing plastic trophies again... what you need to do is chase the plastic trophy inside your heart. :)

Chick, chick--> BOOM!

Lol. Ok you want it done cheap? No problem. Just go for basics, but do it quality.

230-250rwkw (plenty), supporting mods (duh), HD clutch + light flywheel, lowered on adjustable coilovers, 17x9 inch rims at the rear sitting on 255/40 rubber (even more= better), front 17x8/9 inch. Sway bars and strut braces. Oil cooler. Think about a GTR rear wing (do 34 ones swap to a gtt?). Also uprate the brake pads, fluid and get braided lines. Get as much weight off as possible, esp. on the front end (hard on a budget though).

Test that out and go from there adding whatever it needs. Now that i think of it, this isn't really that cheap...

Have fun! Oh, and picsorban when the project starts ;)

Edited by R338OY

Step 1 - Find out category you want to enter

Step 2 - Work out the class in that category that suits the car most

Step 3 - Build car to category rules

Step 4 - Buy tyres, petrol, parts

Step 5 - Enter events

Step 6 - Repeat Steps 4-6

You don't need a CAMS cage to screw around on track days (unless that has changed since I left Oz) so building the car for sprints or to some imaginary ideal spec is not a good idea. You may find that a car that runs such narrow wheels stock is not able to run 9" rears as R338OY suggested, categories have very strange rules that mean you often have to do weird things, so don't go out buying wheels or GT-R wings before you know you can use them.

Guys like Roy know a lot about these sort of rules so his advice is very useful.

Personally I would stick an RB25DET in it, stock brakes (which Sydneykid says are fine), big radiator, big oil cooler, some gauges, a seat and a GT-R front bar, BN Sports bonnet and a stock GT-R spoiler with some extension to raise it up a bit. Then the widest wheels I could fit under the arches with the narrowest recommended tyre size then lower it lots so the roll centres are wrong (just to annoy people).

Edited by Laurence

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
    • Should replace OR drop the tank, give it's good clean. Might be worth replacing that entire fuel level/pump/cradle thing with this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-s13-180sx-r32gtst-single-pump-hanger-kit-billet-hat-6-v3-fpg-089?gQT=2  
    • Thank you so much for the help
    • Yes it is ATF. I quote @Duncan "it takes a good synthentic auto trans fluid like Castrol Transmax Z" It's not a diff. It's a transfer case. Totally different thing. Yes, fluid will come out the sender hole. No you do not really need to drain it. Just pull the old, quickly poke the new, clean up and top up. But realistically, you should probably take the opportunity to change it anyway.
×
×
  • Create New...