Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

there is a r33 gtst track car in england obviously not the same but very similar, only kind of really serious gtst/gtt model track i have seen, cannot remember its name for the life of me though. It was pulling close to 550 horse, running a motec with the dash, so you can imagine how much it would have cost. All depends on your budget if your minted then the skies the limit.

If it were stripped already with CAMS approved cage, Id put it back together with only parts I needed so its on a nice diet, nice and light.

Also maybe looking at replacing some windows with lexan?

single seat

some nice power mods, Id say 250rwkw would keep me happy - so any turbo upgrade + supporting mods.

Brake upgrade with ducting (larger rotors, braided lines, pads, could even go brake bias if you were real serious)

suspension and driveline upgrades (clutch, diff, springs, shocks, caster, camber, sway bars etc)

then light wheels (with some nice gaps for air flow) and semi slicks

If you want a bit of an idea - check out Russ's (giant's) R34 build up - sure its a GTR but you can follow similar ideas :ermm:

Get ready for big bucks and a mission.

But if you plan it out it'll be an awesome project. Hmmm sounds like fun too :ermm:

boosted Rb26 300rwkw with strong supporting mods--> lots of suspension, braking and drivetrain work. Top notch tyres.

And plenty left over too.

22" chromies

Neon Lights

doof doof

...................................................oh wait....wrong spec

suspension, brakes and tyres.....with it stripped out, you'd have a much better power to weight ratio even with the stock engine

Honestly? It would have to be very cheap.

The R34 GTT is basically as heavy as an R32 GTR, so if you are going to build a track car you are getting the weight of the GTR but the penalty of only beign a rwd platform.

Best bet is go rwd and get an R32/33 which will weigh in nice and light...or go with an R32 GTR and live with the weight only have the traction afforded by AWD

there is a r33 gtst track car in england obviously not the same but very similar, only kind of really serious gtst/gtt model track i have seen, cannot remember its name for the life of me though. It was pulling close to 550 horse, running a motec with the dash, so you can imagine how much it would have cost. All depends on your budget if your minted then the skies the limit.

You mean the Apex Performance/K sport r33?

The one in this video

Search "k sport r33" on youtube for tons more vids, seems to go pretty well :D

An R34 GTT weight 1440kg std, whats an R32? 1280, and an S13? My point is the rwd Skyline and Silvia platform can be made to be a real quick car with some very basic mods and do not require huge power.

An R34 GTT is getting up in the scales and will in turn need more power, more tyre, more brakes etc etc you are looking at the GTR end of the spectrum of spend to get the same sort of lap speed

Hehehe there you go chasing plastic trophies again... what you need to do is chase the plastic trophy inside your heart. :)

Chick, chick--> BOOM!

Lol. Ok you want it done cheap? No problem. Just go for basics, but do it quality.

230-250rwkw (plenty), supporting mods (duh), HD clutch + light flywheel, lowered on adjustable coilovers, 17x9 inch rims at the rear sitting on 255/40 rubber (even more= better), front 17x8/9 inch. Sway bars and strut braces. Oil cooler. Think about a GTR rear wing (do 34 ones swap to a gtt?). Also uprate the brake pads, fluid and get braided lines. Get as much weight off as possible, esp. on the front end (hard on a budget though).

Test that out and go from there adding whatever it needs. Now that i think of it, this isn't really that cheap...

Have fun! Oh, and picsorban when the project starts ;)

Edited by R338OY

Step 1 - Find out category you want to enter

Step 2 - Work out the class in that category that suits the car most

Step 3 - Build car to category rules

Step 4 - Buy tyres, petrol, parts

Step 5 - Enter events

Step 6 - Repeat Steps 4-6

You don't need a CAMS cage to screw around on track days (unless that has changed since I left Oz) so building the car for sprints or to some imaginary ideal spec is not a good idea. You may find that a car that runs such narrow wheels stock is not able to run 9" rears as R338OY suggested, categories have very strange rules that mean you often have to do weird things, so don't go out buying wheels or GT-R wings before you know you can use them.

Guys like Roy know a lot about these sort of rules so his advice is very useful.

Personally I would stick an RB25DET in it, stock brakes (which Sydneykid says are fine), big radiator, big oil cooler, some gauges, a seat and a GT-R front bar, BN Sports bonnet and a stock GT-R spoiler with some extension to raise it up a bit. Then the widest wheels I could fit under the arches with the narrowest recommended tyre size then lower it lots so the roll centres are wrong (just to annoy people).

Edited by Laurence

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...