Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Here in Perth

Toyo Proxes T1R 235/45/R17 = $230ea

Maybe cheaper over east.

I previously ran Toyo Trampios 235/45/R17 and had some trouble with traction after upgrading to HKS2835ProS with 255rwkw.

With the T1R's on the back I can now give it full stick in first and second with minimal if any wheelspin.

I cant vouch for Proxes4 but they are only $10 to $20 cheaper at most.

Trampios were a pretty good tyre to begin with but T1R's after definately better again.

I am no longer getting the rear sliding out at Motorkahana's.

Others are getting very good results with T1R's for hillclimbs and Targawest.

can I ask approximately what they cost, and in what size? I will quite likely need more soon!!! :D

With the proxes4's on the rear I can now 'almost' get all of second down. 3rd doesn't give the slightest hint of letting go.

First gear is still pretty useless but with half throttle it seems to hook well, short shift to second and then be a little soft on it.

Trent, what Toyo tyres were on the S13 that Baron purchased. He was kind enough to give me a steer at PI and the tyres put up with about 5-6 laps and were still way better then i expected.

PS...hats off to the way that car is screwed together. Its a great car! :)

cheers, im glad you enjoyed driving it... it was hard to let go for both me and cat :P and seeing the pics at PI of all places made me regret it more :P

i like the proxes 4 but the T1r's are a bit better (less tread squirm) but the proxes 4 do everything we need them too.

cheers, im glad you enjoyed driving it... it was hard to let go for both me and cat :P and seeing the pics at PI of all places made me regret it more :)

i like the proxes 4 but the T1r's are a bit better (less tread squirm) but the proxes 4 do everything we need them too.

Don't be sad. Both you and Cat have an open invitation to drive it any time you are up in Sydney. we can do EC or Oran Park. they aren't quite PI but still good fun. :P

well I don't want to whore up the thread too much, but I did at least give one helpful reply!

I bought an S13 silvia. quite a few mods. but some of the main ones: SR20, 2 way lsd, Trust T518Z, stainless mani, Blitz/ORC clutch, PFC, 550injectors, Z32 AFM, S14 box, coil-overs, 5 stud conversion, R33 brakes, FMIC, trust exhaust, Uras N+ kit etc. took it to phillip island on the weekend. and I will see you at some drift practice soon! seems all the cool kids are doing it, and you can show me how! I'm novice. :rofl:

picture338ov8.jpg

picture116ot2.jpg

very nice. i was going to say those mods and u arnt going to be driftng it. youve got the perfect car to do it in. i will help you on your beginers journey.:/ nudge nudge.also give the wheel to chris and let him give u a few pointers. he's usuallly out at the IDA prac days.

ahh yes and the tyres! that was what this thread is about! wasnt it?

  • 1 month later...

I bought some t1rs for the fronts last year on my buddyclub p1s.

Excellent rubbers for track and normal road use.

T1rs have a lot off grip and i highly recommened them. Also they didnt seem to wear out quickly either- actually still had like 7mm of thread left after ages with one track day!!

GO BUY IT!!

I'm really happy with the proxes4. BUT they do tend to squeel a tad especially when hard on the brakes.

I can brake hard enough so that they are constantly squeeling but not locking. Quite a progressive feeling tyre.

No doubt t1r's are better but none the less these proxes4 are still excellent value for the $$.

Next time.. I'm now can't wait to try the t1r's considering how good these proxes4 are. :D

  • 1 month later...
  • 5 months later...
Well, i've got the T1R's, only in 205/55/R16 so they're not very big. Ummm they've been pretty good, Awesome traction for a road tyre. The Proxes 4's were $10 cheaper than the T1R's in the same size at the time i bought mine.

There's some drifters in the Toyo drift series using the proxes 4's to drift on. The twin turboed LS1 R34 (the red one, i can't remember the team name or driver) uses them. Apparently they're quite consistent when used for drifting and when the tread wears down. As for street use, ican't comment on that. But it can't be bad.

I figured for myslef, why not get toyo's flagship tyre for just the few extra $$. Well it was only $10 per tyre for me at the time. Plus the wet weather grip was unbelievable. I've got the usual 190-200rwkw, on a soaked wet bituman(not even hot mix) on a standard take off not dumping the clutch, it would grip under full acceleration and not even lose traction on gear changes. Pretty good in my books. Great aquaplaning resistance too.

One thing i did notice, as soon as i got them on the car, in just regular driving and harder driving (twisties) you could feel that the tread was quite soft and there was a quite noticable extra amount of side to side movement in the tread. But this icky feeling soon dissappeared after a couple of weeks and some driving on them.

So thats all the experience i have to offer.

I've only run the Proxes 4 on my rear wheels (until the front ones RE01s are replaced) and during the Putty Rd Cruise and going up and down Hawkebury Hts, I'm getting quite a deal of side to side movement in them as you said. This happens especially as the tyres heat up. It's quite disconcerting. I'm running 37lb pressure in them as well. I'm wondering as to whether I should replace the fronts soon with T1Rs instead??? Or do you think that after another 500Km (since they've done 500Km already), they should settle down???

Thanks for advice.

Tez

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...