Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Gday,

Just got my car tuned after being off the road for about 3 years. Ive put an RB26 engine (and an R33 gearbox) in an R32 gtst. The tune is a preliminary one, so ive gotta run the car in and go back in about 1500kms so they can turn the boost up.

The car made 345 rear wheel kilowats on 17 psi and 98 octane. There should be more to come, but after driving it home from Silverwater in the wet, im not sure more power is a good idea in a rear wheel drive application! As soon as it gets to atmospheric, it spins the tyres in the wet; even at 100km/hr on the freeway. Pretty scary, as ive been driving a 100kw carolla for the last 3 years! Anyway, have a look at the dyno sheet. Im just happy to have it on the road.

The specs are as follows:

R33 RB26 (prepped block etc, compression is 9.0:1)

ARP studs and bolts throughout

General head reconditioning but no porting or polishing

Standard cams

HKS cam gears

CP Pistons 20 thou over

Prepped standard rods

N1 oil pump

Tomei sump baffle and head oil restrictor

R33 gtst 5 speed

Jim Berry modified Nismo 5 puck clutch

Autronic SM4 computer

Autronic boost control

Garrett GT35r turbo with 1.06 turbine housing HPC coated

Tial 44mm external wastegate with 17psi spring

Tial 50mm BOV

600x300x100mm intercooler

Earls 16 row oil cooler

Stainless manifold bought from GCG. Modified with extra support brackets and HPC'd

3.5inch dump, HPC'd and wrapped

3.5 inch Trust exhaust

Walbro in tank pump (255l/hr i think)

Surge tank with Bosch 044 in line (i also used the HICAS lines as fuel lines)

Sard 700cc injectors

Edelbrock fuel reg and modified standard fuel rail

Ford falcon twin thermo fans with 50mm alloy radiator.

I think thats it.

Just gotta get it engineered and registered now.

Shaun

PS Im really happy with Dave and Jim at Silverwater Automotive; theyre very good at what they do and looked after me well.

post-11456-1204183016_thumb.jpg

post-11456-1204183226_thumb.jpg

Edited by Shaun
  • Replies 60
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Thanks mate,

I dont think i can use aftermarket cams in the current head because, due to a previous engine failure, the head had to be machined significantly (tunnel bored on camshaft bearing surfaces). This means that larger cams would reduce the valve to piston clearance too much. Anyway, thats what the head machinist said. Ill be looking around for a cheap second hand head and do it up while this one is still in the car.

Shaun.

LOL, i just read dead32's sig :thumbsup: In this case the RB26 is surely Jen Hawkins :blink:

Have you had a chance to drive it in the dry yet? Interested to hear what rim size and tyres you are running. Whether you are still running std R32 diff ratio or changed to R33 diff ratio. What shocks you are running and what rear end alignment you are running.

Very interested to read how an R32 GTSt with this sort of power can, or cannot hook up :(

Having seen the results for the 1.06... what was your reason for choosing it?

Do you think the .82 would be a better choice? (Or maybe twins?)

Just seems to me a tad late to have 250rwkw/5000rpm 300rwkw/5700

Should be coming on 1000-1500rpm sooner possibly?

I wouldn't worry about stock cams, nothing wrong with them at all, maybe just have a bit more of a fiddle with the cam gears :(

Good to see ya set-up finally running with all the drama's you've had with getting to the end, must be worth it to drive home :D

LOL, i just read dead32's sig :D In this case the RB26 is surely Jen Hawkins :(

Have you had a chance to drive it in the dry yet? Interested to hear what rim size and tyres you are running. Whether you are still running std R32 diff ratio or changed to R33 diff ratio. What shocks you are running and what rear end alignment you are running.

Very interested to read how an R32 GTSt with this sort of power can, or cannot hook up :(

Roy,

I havent driven it in the dry yet, ill update you when i do. Im using 17in Enkei Tarmac Evo's with 255 rears. I was wondering about the diff ratio, as ive still got the standard R32 diff in it atm. It just felt a bit wierd to drive, i find it difficult to explain; like it was revving higher than it should have been for the speed i was doing. Having said that, it could have been my speedo that was slightly out due to the sender modification. Do you think it would benefit from the r33 diff (i dont know much about the different diffs and their ratios).

Its got whiteline springs and standard everything else at the moment. Ive got Sydneykids bilsteins and sway bars to go in it yet. Ive removed the hicas, but as for rear end alignment, im not sure; nothing too radical, as it for street use.

When it spun the wheels (at whatever speed), it didnt kick out at all, it just stayed straight which was good.

Nismoid,

Yeah, ive had some dramas and bad luck, so its good to finally make some progress.

I agree with you. I originally had the 0.82 rear on the turbo, as i thought that this would be a really streetable (for a single) package. After my last engine failure, i was advised by those who have more experience than me to change to the 1.06ar, as boost was too early with my higher compression ratio. I must admit, i was hoping the boost threshold would have been lower, but this is something i can play around with later. Actually, i dont even know if they played with the cam gears this time. They might be waiting til i bring it back.

There's no denying that twins are an excellent way to go, and if i knew what i know now, maybe i would have gone the gtss or 2530 route, but ive always wanted a single and external gate. Its done now and im happy for it.

R33 cruiser,

I dont even know how much its cost me as i dont add it up. It riuns the enjoyment! But like all of us, i wonder why i bother sometimes. Im suprised im still enthusiastic about it after 4 years.

Ive done all the mechanical install and fabrication work, so that saves a lot of money. I actually dont think you can put a price on the skills you develop when performing major mods yourself. But if i had to guess, i reckon about 50 grand including bringing the car over from Japan. That includes all the mods to the rb20 before it tho.

Shaun.

Edited by Shaun

awsome man great news at least now I know what Ill be looking at once mine is up and running. Im using vertually the same parts you are except ive got a gt3082r with a 1.06 on it if we can make 320rwkw before we put cams in it ill stoked...anyways good luck cant wait to see the final tune results ps. post more pics up lol

awsome man great news at least now I know what Ill be looking at once mine is up and running. Im using vertually the same parts you are except ive got a gt3082r with a 1.06 on it if we can make 320rwkw before we put cams in it ill stoked...anyways good luck cant wait to see the final tune results ps. post more pics up lol

Sounds good. I had a gt30 (with 0.82) on the rb20 engine and it was great. Boost didnt come til about 4200 on the rb20, so it should be nice with the extra capacity. Good luck with it.

Some more pics:

post-11456-1204248974_thumb.jpg

post-11456-1204249063_thumb.jpg

post-11456-1204249133_thumb.jpg

post-11456-1204249480_thumb.jpg

Awesome to hear this is running, have been following its progress, and staring at your engine bay for a GooD while!!!!! :)

You must be itching to give it a good hiding in the dry :yes:

3540 repreZent!!!

edit: fark that looks sooo good in white

Edited by GeeTR
Awesome to hear this is running, have been following its progress, and staring at your engine bay for a GooD while!!!!! :D

You must be itching to give it a good hiding in the dry :P

3540 repreZent!!!

edit: fark that looks sooo good in white

Thanks mate, cant wait to take it for a spin in the dry. Yeah, i spent some time polishing; once you polish one thing, you've gotta polish the next! Im just disappointed that i didnt paint the engine bay during the build. I can always do it later though.

Shaun.

  • 2 weeks later...

I'm going to bump this up a bit..

I'm considering going the single route..

which gt35 do you have?

i'm kinda looking at the GT3582R with probably the .82 rear or if someone suggest's better otherwise.

would be going onto a stock(i think) 34 n1 motor. with cams and looking at dry sump.

i would like some response, but also aim for at least 350-400kw @wheel mark.

thats a real good amount of power for standard cams

im under going a simlar setup with my RB26 but im using a GT35 with anti surge but with a smaller exhaust housing compared to u and im also using HKS step 1 camshafts and camgears

Edited by STR8E180

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
×
×
  • Create New...