Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

sounds on the money to me. i wouldnt get your hopes up to much. any rb25 making close to 400kw on a gt35 is very stout. hell my 26 only made 376 on 25pound with a t04z...

i thought the t04z make big power on rb26's?

my rb26/30 is making 405awkw (equivalent to 445rwkw) on low mount garrett -10s @ only 23psi

Had a chat to Adam again tonight.

And he said the dump and new cooler would be the best place to start.

I asked how many cars he had tuned making 400+ with a 3 inch dump and he said none.

Not saying there are not engines out there doing this. But if he says he has not seen one then there must be a reason.

For the exhaust its a 5min test, pull the 02 sensor and fit a brass adapter and vac nipple, hook the second map sensor in to it and plot it.... bingo done.

i remember talking to rob @ rips about my exhaust which is a hks super dragger (starts @ 3.25" then goes to 3.75" at the rear).

his feedback "run it with the full exhaust then drop it at the front pipes, you will then know if your exhaust is choking any power"

^^^^ How do the above two posts address whether the dump is the issue....what you have described is usefull for determining whether you have backpressure in the exhaust....not whether you have the proper gas expansion off the turbine?

If you go back to my previous post with two excerpts I cut and posted...refer to the first one...now this guy had a 3 inch dump going to a 3.5 inch side pipe...now I doubt there would be any backpressure present in this system....yet his hp was falling over. He then fitted a 4 inch dump and 3.5 inch full street exhaust and abracabra he made more power everywhere.....and if you read his post weren't not talking massive hp figures here either.

For your convenience:

Dropped the exhaust, still with the 3 inch dump pipe tho, could run an extra 7 deg timing (up to 22) and made 450 at 24psi. Now this was ok, except when we added gas, Power would spike to 490 then as the CFM increased power would always drop back to around 450 rwhp. This was with a 3 inch dump pipe, then increasing to 3.5 inch and exiting out the side of the car. It didnt seem to matter what we did with camshaft timing or anything else for that matter power always fell over hard.

So off to the drag strip, did what we needed to do with the car...... Afterwards a new full street exhaust was made, with a 4 inch dump and a full 3.5 inch system. This thing now makes more over all horse power than before with a 3 inch dump and side pipe but now makes more horse power the harder we rev the engine. Everything here has been done with a screamer pipe, So you could imagine the added stress with CFM having it plumbed back in.

Edited by juggernaut1
...and replace the 4 inch body cat with a 5 inch body cat.

agree with that too.

juggernaut is on the right track. :( yes it's good to keep heat in the pipe to keep the energy in there and keep the gas velocity high BUT you also want to allow the gas to expand nice and quickly once it's past the turbo outlet. you need to for POWER!

^^^^ How do the above two posts address whether the dump is the issue....what you have described is usefull for determining whether you have backpressure in the exhaust....not whether you have the proper gas expansion off the turbine?

agreed i should have read the whole thread :P but depending on the type dump it can still be usefull, if it is a straight through pipe then no it is a useless test, but if it is a chamber type with the usual 3 bolt flange (and 02 sensor bung placement) it will still show up any restriction, even with the exhaust dropped. We just used this to sort a restriction in a s15 that had a dodgy china split dump, then tested the tomei and CES (tomei was the pick).

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
×
×
  • Create New...